I've read a bunch of threads about ebay intercoolers and pipes, beaded, unbeaded, glueing them, scoring the pipes so they grip the silicone couplers, etc. The main complaint people had, was the unbeaded pipes coming undone.
I chose a 27"x 7" X 2.5" FMIC kit with a starter piping kit (2.5" pipes), and a knockoff blowoff valve for only $175.
It came with T-clamps, a bunch of couplers and various pieces of pipe.
Pipe with no beads!!!
Since it's a Colt I figured I would never find a direct fit FMIC kit anyways, so I was ready for some cut and fit. Who needs beaded pipe if you're going to cut it up anyways right?
Here's the "how to" section of this post: First you'll need some materials you will probably be able to find around your garage.
1) A large thick washer.
2) A saddle from a muffler clamp.
3) A large pair of vise grips that you don't want to use as vise grips anymore.
4) A welder or someone who can do a two minute welding job for you.
Do a little bit of simple gringing cutting and welding until you have something that looks like this:
I took the washer to the bench grinder first, and rounded the "business edge" of it so it wouldn't gouge the pipe inside. The rest is pretty self explanitory by looking at the pics.
When you place your saddle into the vise grip, make sure it's square to the washer, and try to grind the jaw of the vise grip in a manner that allows you to bottom out the pipe in the jaw for a quick accurate bead placement. Too close to the pivot of the pliers, and your bead will be too near the edge. (if that's possible) Too far, and you won't have much leverage. (helpful when working with steel pipes)
Now you have a fully adjustable pipe beading tool that works on steel or aluminum piping. You can turn the adjuster bolt to select how deep of a bead you want, and I even was able to use it to flange an exhaust pipe by simply not sliding it onto the tool all the way.
I used a 2.5" muffler clamp because thats what size my IC pipe was, but it worked fine on the 2" steel J-pipe I fabricated, and was great for flaring the 2.5" up to 3" pipe during fabrication of my exhaust downpipe.
Now I have pipes/intercooler in the car, I have a new tool, and one more reason to get that turbo engine off the stand, and into my car.
Dig the N/A frontpipe.
So there it is, I hope it helps someone. I gotta go get some sleep.
Later
I chose a 27"x 7" X 2.5" FMIC kit with a starter piping kit (2.5" pipes), and a knockoff blowoff valve for only $175.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
It came with T-clamps, a bunch of couplers and various pieces of pipe.
Pipe with no beads!!!
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Since it's a Colt I figured I would never find a direct fit FMIC kit anyways, so I was ready for some cut and fit. Who needs beaded pipe if you're going to cut it up anyways right?
Here's the "how to" section of this post: First you'll need some materials you will probably be able to find around your garage.
1) A large thick washer.
2) A saddle from a muffler clamp.
3) A large pair of vise grips that you don't want to use as vise grips anymore.
4) A welder or someone who can do a two minute welding job for you.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Do a little bit of simple gringing cutting and welding until you have something that looks like this:
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I took the washer to the bench grinder first, and rounded the "business edge" of it so it wouldn't gouge the pipe inside. The rest is pretty self explanitory by looking at the pics.
When you place your saddle into the vise grip, make sure it's square to the washer, and try to grind the jaw of the vise grip in a manner that allows you to bottom out the pipe in the jaw for a quick accurate bead placement. Too close to the pivot of the pliers, and your bead will be too near the edge. (if that's possible) Too far, and you won't have much leverage. (helpful when working with steel pipes)
Now you have a fully adjustable pipe beading tool that works on steel or aluminum piping. You can turn the adjuster bolt to select how deep of a bead you want, and I even was able to use it to flange an exhaust pipe by simply not sliding it onto the tool all the way.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
I used a 2.5" muffler clamp because thats what size my IC pipe was, but it worked fine on the 2" steel J-pipe I fabricated, and was great for flaring the 2.5" up to 3" pipe during fabrication of my exhaust downpipe.
Now I have pipes/intercooler in the car, I have a new tool, and one more reason to get that turbo engine off the stand, and into my car.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
Dig the N/A frontpipe.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
So there it is, I hope it helps someone. I gotta go get some sleep.
Later
