First Track Day Preparations

[Scrymerr]

Thanks for all the quick replies. ATE is less than half the price of the Motul fluid I had linked earlier, so I will probably go with that. I will most likely flush out the system with some cheap DOT4 like recommended, and then fill with some blue ATE. I will buy two extra bottles of ATE: one in blue, and one in yellow. That way when I have to change the fluid again I can just alternate colors to always ensure that the old stuff is out.

Thanks for the replies!

**Edit** What type of radiator cap should I run?

 

[underradar92]

**Edit** What type of radiator cap should I run?

At the risk of sounding ambiguious, the highest pressure your hoses can take. If some of the hoses are questionable, replace them. DSM radiator caps are in a high velocity turn and may lift just from the coolant making the turn.

Ending your day in a cloud of steam is not fun.

 

[Slow old poop]

At the risk of sounding ambiguious, the highest pressure your hoses can take. If some of the hoses are questionable, replace them. DSM radiator caps are in a high velocity turn and may lift just from the coolant making the turn.

Ending your day in a cloud of steam is not fun.

I agree. We had to safety wire the rad cap to keep it from undoing itself.

 

[Flash]

I have a question, how long can you get track pads to last. Could you get a couple event weekends out of them?

 

[Slow old poop]

I have a question, how long can you get track pads to last. Could you get a couple event weekends out of them?

In a word, Yes.

I always use my brakes REALLY HARD, so I could never do it, but I think I am unusual (in more ways than one). I believe in waiting until the last microsecond, then standing on the brakes right up to the threshold of lockup. Anyone who drives more sensibly can easily get two weekends (four events) out of a set. For example, you can coast down a little from 100+ before applying the brakes, and increase their life substantially.

What happens is that the pads will look pretty good after the first weekend, with about half the pad left. You figure, OK I used one quarter on Saturday and one quarter on Sunday, so I should be able to get through another two events. Problem is, the more pads wear down, the less heat they can dissipate, and the faster they wear. So that last half of the pad will probably be toast after the next event.

They say that the faster you go, the less brakes you use, and that is probably true for pros. I never got to that point. When I modded the car for more horsepower, it went plenty faster, but then I just had to work harder to brake it.

Also, some tracks are more friendly on brakes, especially those that don't have long straights. Road America has three long staights, where you brake from 140+ or so three times a lap. That eats pads, so you better go there with a fresh set. Midamerica Motorplex has only one long straight, so it is much easier on pads. One set easily lasts four days at MAM.

Because I usually put in a set of new pads before every event, I wound up with a box full of partially worn spare pads. One time, we decided to use up all those old pads instead of buying a new set. Like I said above, when they are worn down they go fast, so we wound up changing pads about three times during the weekend. Each would last about two sessions. The other problems with worn pads is they accentuate pad knockback. With new pads, it takes a while before they wear enough to allow pad knockback; used pads give you pad knockback immediately.

 

[underradar92]

Rich, did you notice any pad life difference with the thicker rotors?

 

[Scrymerr]

Just wanted to add some information to this thread regarding brake pads that I found while searching for pads. This applies to you as well Grant.

Our Rotora pad FMSI number is 810. This pad is better known as the F-40 (F40) pad, and seems to be pretty common.

The FMSI number for the rear 2g turbo brakes is 383.

I think I will go with the Porterfield pads, as suggested, and am looking at about $180 for the fronts and $130 for the rears. Pretty pricey! I have not decided on compound yet; have some other things to worry about first.

 

[asian312]

In a word, Yes.

I always use my brakes REALLY HARD, so I could never do it, but I think I am unusual (in more ways than one). I believe in waiting until the last microsecond, then standing on the brakes right up to the threshold of lockup. Anyone who drives more sensibly can easily get two weekends (four events) out of a set. For example, you can coast down a little from 100+ before applying the brakes, and increase their life substantially.

What happens is that the pads will look pretty good after the first weekend, with about half the pad left. You figure, OK I used one quarter on Saturday and one quarter on Sunday, so I should be able to get through another two events. Problem is, the more pads wear down, the less heat they can dissipate, and the faster they wear. So that last half of the pad will probably be toast after the next event.

They say that the faster you go, the less brakes you use, and that is probably true for pros. I never got to that point. When I modded the car for more horsepower, it went plenty faster, but then I just had to work harder to brake it.

Also, some tracks are more friendly on brakes, especially those that don't have long straights. Road America has three long staights, where you brake from 140+ or so three times a lap. That eats pads, so you better go there with a fresh set. Midamerica Motorplex has only one long straight, so it is much easier on pads. One set easily lasts four days at MAM.

Because I usually put in a set of new pads before every event, I wound up with a box full of partially worn spare pads. One time, we decided to use up all those old pads instead of buying a new set. Like I said above, when they are worn down they go fast, so we wound up changing pads about three times during the weekend. Each would last about two sessions. The other problems with worn pads is they accentuate pad knockback. With new pads, it takes a while before they wear enough to allow pad knockback; used pads give you pad knockback immediately.

That is spot on. My car has a lot less power, thus equating to lower speeds on the straights (~120mph), but I am quite aggressive on my brakes. A set for me normally will be good for 3 days worth of tracking before I reach the half way point. The last set of pads lasted right at 5 days (completely worn to the backings).

Another thing that will greatly affect pad life is the bed in process. Improper bedding will cause the pads to wear quicker and/or not work affectively.

And one last point, I only use race pads on the fronts (as per RRE's recommendations). The weight transfer to the front means the fronts are doing a very large percentage of the work and the rears could lock with a very aggressive pad out back. Also while I did love of the Porterfields performed, I hated that the dust was an iron compound and somewhat corrosive. My wheels got wet with dust on them and rust actually formed on the wheel. The dust was also bedded into the paint so I had to remove the paint finish. I've since upgraded to Evo calipers on all four and will be switching to Carbotechs after seeing them perform on a friend's GTO and my brother's Miata.

 

[Slow old poop]

Rich, did you notice any pad life difference with the thicker rotors?

The pads lasted a lot longer with the skinnier rotors. That's because the skinny rotors would crack like a sumbitch, so we had to go home early and didn't get as much track time as we wanted.

I understand what you are asking. The non-smartass answer is: No, no difference.

 

[UofACATS]

Just wanted to add some information to this thread regarding brake pads that I found while searching for pads. This applies to you as well Grant.

Our Rotora pad FMSI number is 810. This pad is better known as the F-40 (F40) pad, and seems to be pretty common.

The FMSI number for the rear 2g turbo brakes is 383.

I think I will go with the Porterfield pads, as suggested, and am looking at about $180 for the fronts and $130 for the rears. Pretty pricey! I have not decided on compound yet; have some other things to worry about first.

(Porterfield race pad) Check the price at RRE.