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SAFC and logger air flow difference even when no corrections are dial in

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burnnxs

15+ Year Contributor
156
0
Jun 13, 2006
l, South America
At 753rpm I pull 18hz of air flow at the logger, but on the SAFC it's always pulling double39hz . At any condition it always shows double and a bit more on the SAFC than the logger. This is with corrections -0- all across and off at the safc. Is it the wiring?
 
What does it read when you're actually driving/making a pull?
 
do you have a chip? if so its probably a keydiver chip , in which he cuts the value seen by a logger in half because of the max airflow the diagnostic port only puts out which i think its like 1660 or something.
 
i saw you had the stage 3 chip, go on your logger into preference there should be an option for double hertz , which it will automatically re double the value and make it the correct amount, and it will read way over 1660 hertz exactly double.
 
i saw you had the stage 3 chip, go on your logger into preference there should be an option for double hertz , which it will automatically re double the value and make it the correct amount, and it will read way over 1660 hertz exactly double.
Very nice compression thanks a lot, I did as you said and it worked.

I pull 50hz at idle . Is this right ?
 
I have problems stalling after medium or high rev.
I know that the ecu cuts fuel under 2k rpm and having a lighter flywheel can contribute to this but In order to grab all loose ends I thought that this could be the problem.

What else do you think could be causing this?

I have new a 2g mas.

Tested ISC showing 30ohm's.

new CTS

A stage 3 chip...., you can see my mods on profile.

Blocked FIAV only , I had the ISC and FIAV blocked at one time but after testing the ISC being good and still stalling I unblocked it .

My global timing is at 5.

Idle set at 750rpm .grounding.

I can't think of anything else that can cause the stalling.

Can you explain me tell other things to check for ?:dsm:
 
I have problems stalling after medium or high rev.
I know that the ecu cuts fuel under 2k rpm and having a lighter flywheel can contribute to this but In order to grab all loose ends I thought that this could be the problem.

What else do you think could be causing this?

I have new a 2g mas.

Tested ISC showing 30ohm's.

new CTS

A stage 3 chip...., you can see my mods on profile.

Blocked FIAV only , I had the ISC and FIAV blocked at one time but after testing the ISC being good and still stalling I unblocked it .

My global timing is at 5.

Idle set at 750rpm .grounding.

I can't think of anything else that can cause the stalling.

Can you explain me tell other things to check for ?:dsm:

are you venting your bov ? or is it recirculated? i bet your venting and that would cause the stall because your releasing air that the ecu has allready accounted for , via mafs. get a hose clamp it on the end of the bov where the air comes out , and route it back into the intake AFTER the 2g mas but BEFORE the turbo
 
That is approximately what I pull. Glad to hear you got it sorted out.
 
That is approximately what I pull. Glad to hear you got it sorted out.
Right on man .:thumb:

Back to the sub topic, I'm thinking on advancing the timing.
I live in UT (5000ft) and know that the barometer takes care of this but could taking it up to let's say 10deg base help ?
 
I'm doing another boost leak test after work.:thumb:

I did one not long ago and had two very small ones both from the adjust screw on the BOV (greddy type r-s) and the other on the AFPR (aeromotive) . This two I don't think could be fixed. Am I wrong?
 
Right on man .:thumb:

Back to the sub topic, I'm thinking on advancing the timing.
I live in UT (5000ft) and know that the barometer takes care of this but could taking it up to let's say 10deg base help ?

Don't do that. The 1g timing map is already very aggressive.

I'm doing another boost leak test after work.:thumb:

I did one not long ago and had two very small ones both from the adjust screw on the BOV (greddy type r-s) and the other on the AFPR (aeromotive) . This two I don't think could be fixed. Am I wrong?

I've heard of people JB welding the adjustment screw on there, although I'm not sure I'd recommend it.
 
I've heard of people JB welding the adjustment screw on there, although I'm not sure I'd recommend it.

Yeah no I couldn't do that to a $200 part.

I will try to fit a o-ring under the nut and use some silicone under the washers. This should take care of it.
 
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