South Bend DXD-F Clutch?

[Byrd]

I'm in the market for a new clutch (now that slowboy has given me a $480 paper weight which i'll be writing a review about).

Does anybody have experience with any of the following:

1. A 2600 pressure plate with a south bend disk (i've heard good things about this setup)

2. The South Bend DXD-F clutch and it's streetability, slip/holding ability, and it's longevity?

http://www.dxdracingclutches.com/home.html

DXD-F Kit:
SS Stage 5
"Our DXD-F SS series is the ultimate in puck style clutches. Our Feramic product incorporates graphite and cindered iron for the highest torque friction product in the industry. The DXD-F SS is intended only for the serious racer. Feramic will greatly reduce wear to the flywheel and pressure plate casting making this puck clutch out last the competition. This Feramic product exemplifies what Dynamax Extreme Duty clutch kits are all about."

I looked into the 2900's but i want the ability to slip the clutch and not break my drivetrain. The 2600 looked like a good option but it might not hold all the power i have either. Any suggestions? (and not a SBR clutch)

 

[twicks69]

I would only reccomend using the Feramic puck-clutch if you are a race only car, and you probably won't like it too much. You will thrash the hell out of your flywheel friction surface with that disk.

I have had excellent luck with the South Bend Clutch Kevlar full face sprung disk, using a ACT2600 pressure plate and a fidanza flywheel. It took the abuse, and worked flawlessly for the time I had it in the car.

Here is a link to the clutch disk:
http://www.horsepowerfreaks.com/price/Mitsubishi/Eclipse-Talon_95-99/South_Bend/Clutch/Clutch_Disks

It was extremely smooth, non chattery, and slippable. It acted like a street disk, with the bite of a 6-puck under fast shifting. I ran 11.0's @ 133 with that clutch with no problem.

I also had excellent wear characteristics out of it -- over 100 dyno pulls (most of those pulls well over 500AWHP), 100+ track passes and over 30K street miles on it before I replaced it (and it still wasn't dead yet). I never had a slipping issue on the dyno, and I only had issues with disengagement under extreme hot lapping at the track. Once it cooled back down, it worked just fine. The flywheel friction plate also lasted quite well, and didn't show any signs of "bowling", whereas with the 6-puck I had before it (for 2300miles), caused the friction surface to bowl severely.


I also had excellent customer service/shipping/etc from these guys over several purchases with them.


Good Luck,