poor man profec

[Dream_Of_Eagle]

any1 got a link for the poor man profec how-to???

 

[a_scobel]

http://www.dsm.org/archives/1997/11/19971128.txt/10.html but looks like the site's down right now...

 

[Dream_Of_Eagle]

http://www.dsm.org/archives/1997/11/19971128.txt/10.html but looks like the site's down right now...

yea that is the link i had bookmarked

 

[Defiant]

It's up now.

Ah, the web.

 

[Dream_Of_Eagle]

not on my end site is still down

 

[midnght]

It is as of.....now. Wait, its down again.....hurry it is back up!!!

 

[Dream_Of_Eagle]

so next time its is up willsomebody copy it for me?

 

[AlexBlaster]

so next time its is up willsomebody copy it for me?

I made a copy of it on word; the site is sparatically on and offline.

Give me your email, and I'll send you a copy.

-alex

 

[Defiant]

Cripes, there ain't that much to it:

Subject: Poor Mans Profec B revealed (Long very long)
From: Blue Talon2 <[email protected]>
Date: 12 Nov 1997 00:40:52
[Bibliography] [Digest]
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

Hey guys
Well due to the overwhelming popular demand, and despite the voice in the
back of my head that say hey PK this could be a way to make some $$$, I will
once again reveal the oh so simple directions to make you very own Porsche
Killer/Poor Mans Profec B so that you too can enjoy "Boost with a button."

Recipe:
2 DSM boost control solenoids
1 3-way rocker switch
1 Radio Shack IN4004 diode (Not Zener Diode)
Lots of wire
Bag of plastic "T"'s
Extra vacuum tubing

The rocker switch I used was from a set of Eclipse dual fog lights and light
up in either position. Power the rocker switch with a fused igntion wire (I
taped into the radio). Run a two power wires so that the switch turns on one
solenoid in each position. Then wire in the diode as shown in the diagram.
This diode allows power to flow in one direction so that when you flip the
switch in one direction you turn on one solenoid but when you power the
other, both turn on.

You may substitue the 3 way rocker and diode with two individual switches to
control each solenoid. This may give you further boost options.
I have to say thanks Sean RS Costall who gave me the neccessary diode number
as well as made the diagram you seeattached below, because this software eats spaces
The diagram has the switch turning the ground on and off but you may route
the power in whichever direction works best for you. Now come the tricky
part.

Calibration: Remove the hose from the stock solenoid and replace it with a
"T". Connect the two solenoids to this "T" with more hose. To adjust the
boost levels you adjust the size of the "T" and the lenghts and size of the
hoses before AND after the solenoids. Add more hose/use bigger "T"=bleed more
air and get more boost. Yeah I know this can be pain but you only have to do
it once. It took me only four runs to get it right. Calibration is by trial
and error so be very careful and watch your boost gauge.

Originally I had the setup working for 8lbs, 11lbs, and 15lbs. But once I got
Dave's fuel pump I now have it set for 8lbs, 12lbs, 18lbs. Another good part
to the system is that boost spike is minimal since you don't have 12ft of
hose running into the cockpit.

Thats it. Trust me once you set this up you'll never go back to bleeder
valves. Plus you'll laugh at your friends who paid $500 for a "Furry Logic"
boost controller which can't do much more the Porsche Killer Poor Man's
Profec B.

Make sure that you do the knock light at the same time so you'll know when
it's safe to turn the wick up.

Disclaimer: this intellectual property is offered free to the DSM world. Use
it at your own risk. The Porsche Killer is not responsible for you blowing
your engine sky high but will take the credit for you blowing the doors off a
Cobra. This information is for use by DSM owners on their own personal
vehicles and may not be used for profit. Any profits made must be split
between you, me, Sean Costall, and the Todd "all thumbs" Day M3 fund. This
offer is valid in 49 states...sorry Alabama.

Mario
Porsche Killer
90 Talon Tsi Awd 108k

 

[AlexBlaster]

Make sure that you do the knock light at the same time so you'll know when
it's safe to turn the wick up.

Has anyone actually done this? I would like to hear some feedback or just see who has done this. What is this 'knock light' he speaks of? Would like to get some direction on that as well.

TIA

 

[Dream_Of_Eagle]

thanks a millon

 

[Defiant]

What is this 'knock light' he speaks of?

It's now largely archaic. From:

http://members.shaw.ca/costall/1000Q/answers-problems.htm

"What is a 'knock LED'?
I am running [x] PSI on my car, and my knock LED flashes! Is my setup ok?
My knock LED flashes all the time! Is there a fix?
My knock LED flashes all the time! Did I screw up my engine?
A 'knock LED' is a light wired up to the boost control solenoid (BCS) on the engine. The short answers to the other three questions are: Probably, no, and probably not.

Despite it's name, the 'knock LED' DOES NOT MEASURE KNOCK. [Doubters take heed: it DOES NOT.] All the LED is doing is informing you when the boost control solenoid has been tripped by the ECU. This has only the vaguest relation to knock, as there are many other non-knock circumstances that will cause the BCS to trip. This quite possibly gives the 'knock LED' the distinction of being the worst-named modification in the history of DSMs."