-6AN to Thermostat housing

[T-Flexx]

My 1g has a coolant leak. I believe I cracked one of the lines that runs to/from the turbo. I am going to replace both oil and coolant lines just to be safe and add the bling of braided lines under the hood. I was reading up on running -6AN out of the turbo to the water pipe.....which is all good. My question is how do I run a -6AN hose from the thermostat housing to the turbo. Can I simply slide the hose over and clamp it onto the nipple of the thermostat housing?? That is how it was before but I didn't know if clamping on the Braided line would cause problems.

 

[boost97gst]

Works fine for fuel return. Dont see why it would hurt with coolant in it instead. Clamp it and go.

 

[David9er]

The best way to do that would be to use one of these:
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-220690/overview/
You would then get a double male union that matched this fitting's threads on one side and matched the thermostat's threads on the other

 

[T-Flexx]

I don't see how that coupler would work since there is no existing thread on the thermo housing... unless I cut the exist nipple and tapped that hole. Which is a little more work than I would like to take on.

 

[bryanwheat]

I don't see how that coupler would work since there is no existing thread on the thermo housing... unless I cut the exist nipple and tapped that hole. Which is a little more work than I would like to take on.

If you are going to use braided line than use it properly and get the right fittings and ends. You will have to take a pair of pliers and remove the metal nipple. If you work it back and forth it will come out. Now toy will just need to drill to the proper size, tap and screw a fitting into the housing. This is the correct way. If you are just going to use clamps than buy rubber hose. If I were you I would fix what is broken and not worry about braided hoses.

 

[IQ685]

^^^^^^^^^ +1

 

[tylersevo]

Rubber hose should be just fine. Like stated above just fix what is broken.

 

[David9er]

I don't see how that coupler would work since there is no existing thread on the thermo housing... unless I cut the exist nipple and tapped that hole. Which is a little more work than I would like to take on.

My apologies I confused the turbo's port with another one. what you could do is cap the turbo feed and use a port that you may not be using such as the EGR sensor.

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[/QUOTE]

This image should help you.

If you are using all the sensors then you can use a "T" fitting between the sensor of you choice and thread the AN fitting on the open end

 

[T is for TURBO]

Tap the t-stat housing to accept a -6 fitting.

 

[T-Flexx]

I have done a vaccum delete and removed the egr....so I could order this
EXTREME PSI : Your #1 Source for In Stock Performance Parts
Then tap into 2. on the picture and run feed from there?

Also what do you recommend plugging the original nipple with?

P.S also if we all just fixed what was broken instead of upgrading that wouldn't be much fun!!

 

[T is for TURBO]

I just removed the old nipple, tap it and plug it with a 1/8" NPT plug.

 

[GSLENK]

The simplest way is to buy the oem fitting/line new again.

As others have posted, a correct process is (well at least what I did).

1 Pull the nipple out.
2 tap to 1/4 npt
3 thread an adapter (1/4npt to -6an) in, use some hi temp sealant (copper rtv?, etc...)
4 Make your an line the appropriate length. -6an femal both sides, about 1.5 feet or so. If SS, splurge on the teflon line to avoid melting the rubber line.
5 find a -6an to 14x1.5mm banjo bolt (pleas verify the banjo bolt for turbo size, its been a while). I used one from ebay like this. I had to grind a littel section off of the corner of my chra to clearance this.
6 use new 14mm crush washers and snug that bad boy down.

attach water line to rear of turbo, install turbo, attach water line to adapter on T-stat housing.

Whalah. I did this and have ZERO leaks since about a year ago.

Ebay banjo 6an:
Banjo Bolt M14X1 5mm to 6AN 6 An Turbo Water GT25 GT28 GT30 | eBay

EDIT: I noticed you dont want to do any tapping. In that case, just buy another oem. I will assure you that if you have the right tools (ie a tap, and drill, and drill bit) the process is VERY easy. All you need is 2 new gaskets. It is just like replacing the thermostat. MAke sure to drain a few quarts of coolant first to avoid a spill mess. You will have to remove the turbo regardless unless you are some sort of slick contortionist.

 

[T-Flexx]

Well as reluctant as I was to tapping, it sounds like that is going to be the best and most permanent solution. Thanks for everyone's input and knowledge.

 

[T is for TURBO]

It's not hard at all. Just pull the housing off, put it in a vice, drill, tap, clean, re-install. Just take your time and there should be no problems.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I'm doing this but with -4 which is what Fp recommends. I'll be welding AN fittings to the water pipe and talping a new hole to the filler neck, but since i have no EGR I'm gonna look into that emissions sensor to tap into.

 

[T is for TURBO]

I wish I had gone with -4AN. It would have been much easier to work with. But I already had 4' of -6 braided line laying around.

 

[Archer Fabrications]

I wish I had gone with -4AN. It would have been much easier to work with. But I already had 4' of -6 braided line laying around.

Why do you wish that? I was told by RTM to ise -6 since they are 3/8 BUT FP trumps rtm when it comes to turbo cooling. So I'm doing -4 for the coolant lines, oil feed, and a -12 drain from my holset I'll ise on the FP if it fits.

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These are the chra water fittings for -4 which is the only size water line they offer in -AN

 

[T is for TURBO]

Because the -4 hose has a tighter bend radius, and it's not quite as stiff, so it's easier to route than -6

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Because the -4 hose has a tighter bend radius, and it's not quite as stiff, so it's easier to route than -6

Fair enough, no one wants kinking going on. Thanks for confirming my choice

 

[T is for TURBO]

Fair enough, no one wants kinking going on.

Yeah, and to prevent kinking you need more hose length due to the large bend radius, which adds weight and clutter.

My t-stat housing has a slight leak to it now, So I'll be putting my spare housing on this winter, so I'll redo everything to -4.




Plus, It's been a while since I looked at a stock line, but I believe they are -4 anyhow...

 

[Archer Fabrications]

Yeah, and to prevent kinking you need more hose length due to the large bend radius, which adds weight and clutter.

My t-stat housing has a slight leak to it now, So I'll be putting my spare housing on this winter, so I'll redo everything to -4.




Plus, It's been a while since I looked at a stock line, but I believe they are -4 anyhow...

They are 3/8 which would be -6 BUT -4 is more then enough. According to FP anyway as long as it is recirculating it will be fine.

 

[David9er]

Why do you wish that? I was told by RTM to ise -6 since they are 3/8 BUT FP trumps rtm when it comes to turbo cooling. So I'm doing -4 for the coolant lines, oil feed, and a -12 drain from my holset I'll ise on the FP if it fits.

According to Paschall's law as long as the hole in the turbo has not been modified you could theoretically go up to -50 if you wanted (Its an exaggeration but I'm making a point) and it would work, the cooling properties of the system remains the same assuming you topped off the system. As for the routing that is obviously a different story. If you are wishing to save weight isn't run of the mill heater hose lighter than braided stainless steel hose? I know its not as pretty but it will hold the system's 13psi capacity.

Well as reluctant as I was to tapping, it sounds like that is going to be the best and most permanent solution. Thanks for everyone's input and knowledge.

If you really don't want to tap & plug (it would look the most pro) get a "T" with a rubber hose nipple fitting the same size as the turbo nipple (B in the pic) on the housing and run heater hose from the nipple (B) to the fitting on the "T". It's basically an old school heater core delete but for the turbo instead.