Having a hard time pinpointing where the noise is coming from but it sounds like it's coming from the engine bay. The noise almost sounds like belt squeal (like a rubber on metal contact) but only occurs under deceleration when the engine is bucking going into an engine brake. The squeaking will...

Altoids94 submitted a new DSM Profile :1995 Eagle TalonRead more about this vehicle here...

So its seem that 450 whp has been done a few time I think I'm more worried about the tranny at this point. @renovatdkitchen I believe XTD stage 4 is rated up to mid 450 ft/lb of torque, so getting close to the limit but I have read people running even more power through them with no problems.

Hey guy, I know this has been covered in a few threads but I didn't get the exact answer I was looking for. I currently have a stock 7 bolt with 134k miles on it, 175 psi compression across the board. It ran 329 AWHP on a mustang dyno with a 16g @ 22psi on 94 octane with meth injection. For...

Found this behind my fuse box unplugged. It has 14 pins. What is it for?

Have a read through this Keep Your Balance Shafts – Jacks Transmissions LLC

Check for boost leaks

Pull out the boot around the fork and take a look inside the bellhousing.

Why don't you just T the factory oil pressure sensor. http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/articles-engine-fuel/359004-using-t-install-oil-pressure-gauge.html

Well if you can live without the progressive controller you can wire up pump into the FPS or EGR and use the meth under DSMLinks nitrous control to deactivate it between shifts and on launch.

Seriously man I bought my first DSM also at the age of 17 (I am now 18). You have a lot of learning to do, I would really start by reading around this forum. I learned a lot just by searching. Almost every question you have asked could have been easily found by searching. In regards to the...

Ok thanks, I'll try that tonight. I will update after it is done.*Update spliced into the brown wire and it worked! Awesome having a working gauge, many thanks snowborder714

Everything was soldered. So I would just splice into thr brown wire?

Yes I checked it again with version 3.15. All settings were retained. A/F ratios are bang on in the ecu and line up with A/F est.Would extending wires for the db gauge cause any problems? There all extended maybe 3 feet. Test ground at blue wire and db gauge all checks out.

Will I tried it only difference it made is it went to about 10.5 wouldn't go any higher. Sat around 9 again.

I saw that but it says with the LC1 log item you do not have to change the values and it will work with the stock ones.So change it from pin 91 to the same bolt as the blue and db gauge ground?

That was my first guess so I did it 2 more times. It lines up perfect in DSMlink. Idles nice, seems like the gauge for whatever reason doesn't want to read the same.

Just got my DSMlink v3 full and lc1 wideband set up for narrowband simulation but I am having an odd problem. DSMlink reads the wideband at 14.7 in the logs but my db gauge is reading at 9.LC1 is wired as follows: Red wire – Cigarette lighter Blue wire – Chassis ground White wire -...

It is in your rear differential. It is most likely fried, do not drive your car until you get all the tires the same on every wheel. Also check your lower control arms for play.

Your idle should be around 800 rpm.

Good stuff right here, sub'd!

What kind of horsepower and torque was it putting down?

Do you have an aftermarket alarm system?

Just buy a tapping kit. Pretty simple, you basically screw the tap in to make new thread. Make sure its straight.

Autometer is great, awesome customer service.

I think it would look awesome dropped an inch or 2.

Also running a small nozzle pre turbo can move your compressor map over.

Good air flow going on here!

Check your fuses and see if anything is blown. Also make sure everything is properly plugged in.

I've done it before on the outside but there fogged up inside. Guess I will have to take them apart and re seal them.

Does it stay at 18 or drop? What's your boost set at?

Does anyone know where I can buy replacement lens for 2gb headlights?

Check if the MAS is properly connected.

Get some suspension and poly motor mounts to hold that power to the pavement.

Check your coil pack.

You are definently going to want some bigger injectors. You need a tuning device, worthy investment is a dsmlink. If you do not want to spend the cash for that get a safc but you'll regret it in the end. Walbro 255lp will be more then enough, make sure you re wire it.

Very true most tuners are clueless when it comes to our cars. Thats why I said a dsm tuner.

Check your timing, your belt may have jumped teeth.

You should be able to put down around 280 awhp. Since you do not have a wideband or any experience I would recommend going to your local dsm tuner to get it tuned. Unless you want to be up to the challenge.

New master, try and get an OEM one.

Does that involve seperating the ball joints or just the bolts on the control arms? Any input on the pinion seal?

My diff is currently a mess right now. I have a small leak on the passenger side rear axel which I have been putting off for awhile. Now the pinion seal is leaking (where the drive shaft goes in). From what I understand I just un bolt the driveshaft, remove the flange nut and change the seal...

Try checking the ECU for any leaking caps.

Gun metal you can't go wrong with it.

I think the Tenzo's would look clean.

+1, looks ready to rip that is after the break in.

I've been searching the web seeing where I can find some pads and rotors for my 95 rear vented brakes. From what I understand only RRE has a set that are quiet pricey (225). JNZ tuning has them for 80 a rotor which is still alot. Some people have said 3000gt rotors and pads work but what year...

There's a few around. I know there's one in Westwood junk yard. Check it out. Try posting on BCDSM.org

I ended up emailing extreme psi and they couldn't help me as it was a odd part. I ended up getting a magnet and after a week of screwing around in the engine bay I found it.