In the kit I got came with 2 feet of ground wire. Can i just wire that to the frame, and then wire the ground off the starter motor to the frame alos, or do i have to go out and by 15ft of ground wire so i can run it all the way from the trunk to the engine bay?? thanks guys

I would suggest a 50trim with a .63 A/R, and a 76wheel from PTE......spools faster than some, but still can support alot of HP

aggreed.....the lube should do it for ya

They could have messed up on the head gasket.....as far as how much oil burning.....honestly depends on how bad the gasket is......ive heard people loosing anywhere from a quart a week to a quart a month......do you have a vacumne guage?? What does it read at idle.......and as far as the turbo...

VRS.......Sounds so good, and decent prices....3" turbo back ran me $750 shipped

one thing on the Icehouse.....that part there.....where the plug is supposted to go is VERY EVRY important.........got my 6 bolt swap done, and forgot to put that plug back in.....oil leaked like a quart after 1 minute.....i would recomend getting that plug and o-ring that goes behind it from...

well that smoke is probably oil burning....headgasket....and as far as the rough idle......head gasket.....and low oil pressure is normal at idle in these cars...just watch for that idiot light.........my guess would be the headgasket that is causing a vac leak, and the smoke

yea seen that....but i only heard that it will throw a code, not actually misfire

ahh, not to sure about that.....plan on upping the boost, go with a kevlar.....extra insurance is never a bad thing

I have done a 1g into a 2g swap....and i have heard that when doing the CAS swap, you will get a misfire code......well i have gotten it, and i cleared it.....well i was driving and all the sundden the engine studdered and the check engine light came on, so i checked it, and sure enough it was...

sweet........

dam cat probably

heard..............must be real HARD if you forgot how to spell it.......lol

these cars are so unpredicatable

this modinprogress guy really knows his shit.....haha.....havent seen you on here in a while jason...lol

thanks......i belive it is the wastegate too, the car was cold.....i took it around the block real quick and hit 3 or 4 pounds of boost and let off, it made the noise again.,......so to check if it was the wategate i felt the dumptube, and sure enough it was hot from the exhaust gas passing through

hope it works out

thanks

I heard that not all 95's have an EPROM ECU......i heard you have to check in the lower right hand corner of the label on the ECU....well i looked at mine, and i got a T in the lower right hand corner....does that mean mine is EPROM??

mine is routed back in, im not venting

your going to have to plug the valvecover hole or else u will have oil everywhere

not alot of people have had this problem, but some have...........the breather hose that runs from the valve cover to the intake manifold carries oil in it also...which there for gets into the intake.....when letting sit over night, that little bit of oil runs down the intake onto the valves, or...

even though the waterpump was just replaced, that is the only thing i can think of........the only other thing, stupid and simple, yet possible.... the drive belt that turn the waterpump

hope that made sence

well i redid eveything this past winter, and when i was putting the timing belt back on, all marks were lined up, but i believe #2 cylinder valves were slightly open. The motor runs great and my timing is dead on, so i know i did it right, and i do remember that one cylinders valves were...

yea, sounds like the pan might have a slight bent in it.....wait a full 24 hours before putting oil in and running it when using RTV

alright thanks

not all the valves are closed at TDC, dont remember which cylinders, but i know not all of the valves are closed at TDC....it is normal

how long before putting oil in did you let the sealent dry??

i think it will help too.....thanks for your guys help, one more thing......why do you say it is the BOV then?? Just curious for future reference

greddy type s

in other words, your saying compressor surge also......hard to explain but it doesnt sound like surge.......ive heard surge in person, and doesnt sound like that

i got one, just the added insurance for the little price it is i think is worth it.....its an extra $100 now vs. a couple grand if the stock one ever went.......especially if you plan on upping the boost. It never hurts to go stronger.

well compressor surge is cause by the BOV not opening right?? Well, i even loosened my BOV to almost all the way soft, and i still get it......it doesnt sound like this...that for sure.....http://www.26liter.us/videos/3inchexhausttest.mpeg

Alright ive heard that the more mods you have done to your car the lower your vac will be at idle......ive got a 50trim, ported and polished head, ross 8.5:1 pistons, eagle rods, dejon 3.5" intake tube, greddy FMIC, IC piping upper and lower, ported exhaust manifold, and 3" turbo back exhaust...

the BOV flutters???? ive only heard of them making the oh so famous pishhh sound........its not compressor surge, because i know what that sounds like, one of my buddies had it, not pretty sounding.......anyway, so u think its the BOV that flutters???

anyone else running external hear of this?

When i let off the gas, even at like really low boost, it sounds like my wastegate is fluttering, kind of like it does when i hit full boost, just not as loud...........is that normal..............my wategate spring is set at 15psi, but it still flutters when i let off the gas???

the hose idea should work, just make sure you put some rtv sealent between the silacone hose and the water pipe, then clamp it down nice and snug.....just wait a day or so before putting coolant back in, to make sure it seals fully.........also another idea is to just JB WELD the crack, i had a...

good luck

my bad, i thought u were saying it was the input shaft .........but u said output shaft which is the one that connects to the transfer cases.....that one wont be nearly as hard/ time consuming......almost positive all you have to do is drop the transfer case, and replace it......a shop manual...

not hard, just time cosuming......going to have to take the tranny off to do it

alright well, i found the leak.....oil....it was coming from a plug that is right under/behind the CAS on the passanger side of the head.....ive only got 60 miles on my new motor, and it didnt start leaking there until after like 20.....so i figured.....ive got prothane motor mounts and balance...

well....i dyed the oil, and it is dripping off the back of the head, right above the waterpipe, then dripping down onto that and the tranny.......i still cant see exactly where it started...i know it is right by there, but i cant see with the engine bays so dam compact...lol....ah well, back to...

its coming from right around the waterpipe where it runs to the heater hose, cant tell what it is still,gonna have to buy some dye.

yea...further investigation looks like it is running down the back side of the trans, and dripping down there....still cant tell exactly what the leak is thouh.......motor oil and gear oil are just too alike

CAS.....or there is a connector on the intake manifold somwhere that looks like that

got it all figured out....and yea slowboy is giving me some credit on stuff i buy next time from them...thanks for everything guys