1G: HX40 oil drain issues!

[98awdturbo]

I am 20 minutes of work away from starting my Talon for only the 2ND time in the 2 years I have owned it. I'm running a HX40 with DSM BEP housing on a FP manifold. My issue is my -10 oil drain. No matter what combination of fittings (straight, 45*) and/or hose length I cannot get it to fit. either there is too much angle on the braided line causing it to almost kink or the fitting to the turbo is hitting the roll stop bracket. The center housing is already somewhere between 6 and 7 oclock so i dont want to rotate that out anymore (it would have to be between 7 and 8 for the fitting to mate). Anyone ever run into this? Any suggestions would be great!
Thanks
-Chris

[ZenkaiRacerDsM]

Yep I ran into the same problem. Mine was one of the kits from Extreme PSI. Just replace the AN fitting that is supposed to screw on to the center cartridge with a brass fitting that was barbed and then slide the hose over that and clamp it down. You may need a longer hose to do this. I can't remember.

I won't be able to look at my car to see it exactly for a couple days.

[98awdturbo]

so your saying you drilled/tapped the center housing?? or you got a brass fitting that went on the AN adapter?

[JusMX141]

Ever think about cutting the roll stop bracket?

[98awdturbo]

Yeah i did. I really didnt want to weaken it if i didnt have to so i figured id search for a better solution first. I have yet to hear of anyone needing to notch the bracket making me figure these a workable solution around doing that.

[burkgonzo]

Originally Posted by JusMX141

Ever think about cutting the roll stop bracket?

Yea we has to trim it down on my 1g, then used -12 fitting and pushlock.

[98awdturbo]

I can see that with -12 but -10? i guess ill just have to do that...

[3kgt2nv]

i used a -10 and mine fit perfectly. i had to retrim the hose one time but ther is no issue and the hose fits exactly like it should.

[98awdturbo]

yeah i really dont get it either. My 50 trim's oil drain on this manifold fit fine and was a -10..

[JusMX141]

Originally Posted by 98awdturbo

Yeah i did. I really didnt want to weaken it if i didnt have to so i figured id search for a better solution first.

You're not going to weaken anything. I've seen hacked roll front stops on 1G's that are making much more than "streetable" power levels.

Originally Posted by 98awdturbo

I have yet to hear of anyone needing to notch the bracket making me figure these a workable solution around doing that.

Must've missed this one.

Turbo return line issues!

[98awdturbo]

Originally Posted by JusMX141

You're not going to weaken anything. I've seen hacked roll front stops on 1G's that are making much more than "streetable" power levels.

Must've missed this one.

Turbo return line issues!

No, I did not see that one in my search. I'm not planning on world beater power, but 550AWHP is what i expect and did not know if hacking it would support that. Pardon my ignorance. judging by all of the pictures in that link my drain is facing to far toward the motor as is. I will do a little rotating and "weight reduction" tonight. I appreciate all the help!

[JusMX141]

Here's what you're going for with a properly-trimmed roll stop bracket. Smooth transition, zero chance of kinking. This is with a HX40 / BEP .55 bolt-on housing combo on a BEPDSM7 manifold like SBR used to sell.

[urbansmoker1]

ill be doing a write up on this shortly when i get my fittings in the mail, im going to experiment with 45*, 30* and 60* im thinking a 30* from the turbo and a 45 from the pan should do the trick for a smooth transition. also -10 is kinda small. im running -12AN but i did notice with straight fittings the tube wanted to bend and twist. keep an eye out for the write up, i have to retake pix of my fittings that i ground down because i lost my phone and had to get a new one, not a big deal, but i hope it to help all the HX40 users out here, including where to buy stuff and what is recommended.\


justin, i thought the holset manual calls for no less then 30* vertical, that one you pictured looks almost horizontal there toward the bottom.

[3kgt2nv]

how mine is run with -10 lines. its a straight on the turbo to a 45 off the oil pan

[98awdturbo]

Cutting the roll stop was perfect for clearance. I was able to trim it in car and the material that was needed to be removed was not to much. I was using a straight and 45* fittings with -10 braided but could not get the kink worked out. I have some push lock fittings so I may just buy a length of tubing and trial/error it until i get it optimal. That way I will not be wasting more braided line. I appreciate all the input from everyone.

[turboglenn]

An All AN drain looks nice but fir running about 100 bucks and being harder toi intall and make room for than just using some flanges with brbed fittings and some correct style rubber hose, I don't see whyt people instist on trying to make some of this fit (no offense) i looked at it for my holset and it was so upsetting to think of over 90 bvucks for less thqn a foot of line that's only gonna be seen from under the car, I just took a T3/4 drain flange, cut the stock 2g return at the pan on the long side of the "flex" in it and puyt them together with hydraulic hose which was a total of about 20 bucks with gas and a pop on the way to buy the parts,

I give it tha the AN looks killer, but seriousely if it's returning you're worried about, the oiling issues are just way overhyped because people are affraid to set the feed up properly enough to get by wiuth a stanbdard return.. if you have the right pressure adn flow going on you shouldn't need anythign more than what i've described above for a return unless you just wnt the looks....

best of luck, and don't be scurred to cut the roll stop, hell you can always re-enforece theother side if you startmaking the power to efffect it (which i haven't seen yet)

keep the results postred

[urbansmoker1]

Glen, it's not really about looking fancy, it's for more functionality of having a drain the size of or close to holsets specs which is 19mm id or what WOULD be -14an which doesn't exist so -12 is what I'm using although I'm using black bradded push lock.

[urbansmoker1]

it turns out that a 30* off the turbo and a 60* off the pan is the perfect drain spec for a no less the 30* horizontal drain tube suggested by holset. you will have to trim the fittings though cause they are rather long. article will be commencing soon on the HX40 install. i just completed it myself and have lots of pictures.

[red_devil]

Originally Posted by turboglenn

An All AN drain looks nice but fir running about 100 bucks and being harder toi intall and make room for than just using some flanges with brbed fittings and some correct style rubber hose, I don't see whyt people instist on trying to make some of this fit (no offense) i looked at it for my holset and it was so upsetting to think of over 90 bvucks for less thqn a foot of line that's only gonna be seen from under the car, I just took a T3/4 drain flange, cut the stock 2g return at the pan on the long side of the "flex" in it and puyt them together with hydraulic hose which was a total of about 20 bucks with gas and a pop on the way to buy the parts,

I give it tha the AN looks killer, but seriousely if it's returning you're worried about, the oiling issues are just way overhyped because people are affraid to set the feed up properly enough to get by wiuth a stanbdard return.. if you have the right pressure adn flow going on you shouldn't need anythign more than what i've described above for a return unless you just wnt the looks....

best of luck, and don't be scurred to cut the roll stop, hell you can always re-enforece theother side if you startmaking the power to efffect it (which i haven't seen yet)

keep the results postred

I agree I just used a stock holset drain with a hose connecting to the stock 2g drain. Has a larger diameter than a -12AN and cost less than $50.

[urbansmoker1]

Originally Posted by red_devil

I agree I just used a stock holset drain with a hose connecting to the stock 2g drain. Has a larger diameter than a -12AN and cost less than $50.

the 2g drain is not larger then a -12AN... neither is the hole in the oil pan.


not saying it doesn't work, but its not to spec.

[red_devil]

Originally Posted by urbansmoker1

the 2g drain is not larger then a -12AN... neither is the hole in the oil pan.


not saying it doesn't work, but its not to spec.

If you measure the I.D of some -12AN push lock fittings they tend to be around 15mm, while the stock 2g drain is 17mm+.

[agentorange313]

Originally Posted by urbansmoker1

the 2g drain is not larger then a -12AN... neither is the hole in the oil pan.


not saying it doesn't work, but its not to spec.

Originally Posted by red_devil

If you measure the I.D of some -12AN push lock fittings they tend to be around 15mm, while the stock 2g drain is 17mm+.

.663" I.D. = 2g oil drain.
16.84mm =
First post states how large the 2g drain is:
Garrett & Holset Turbo Users - Your Oil Drain May Be Too Small!


MOST AN 12 lines are around .68-.69 ID.

Summit Braided hose - .69"
Aeroquip - .688"
Russell Proflex - .688"
Earl's Pro-lite - .688"

[red_devil]

Take a look at post 352 in that thread.

[NHerron]

When I redid the oil return on my 16G (from previous owner), it originally had these gargantuan fittings along with some 21mm ID heater hose. After dicking around for some time getting them to play nice I took a quick look and realized the fittings themselves (ID) were smaller than the hose by A LOT. Yeah yeah captain obvious says the fittings ID must be smaller to accept a hose slipping over the barb but it was very significant. So significant, that the turbo oil outlet was bigger. I believe the fittings measured 13MM ID while the 2G turbo drain measured 17MM. I should have taken pictures of the Mickey Mouse setup it once had and how it now has an awesome simple drain, the OEM 2G drain.

Point of all that is, yeah the 'xxAN' hose may have 'x' measurement, but it don't mean squat if the fittings are a bottle neck.