Just scored a great deal! Garrett 50trim, now some questions.

DSMDEMON93 · 06-26-2012, 02:13 PM

Hey guys, so from looking in my local craigslist, a guy was having a sell out of turbo parts. I bought this big garrett turbo he had for 50 bucks, and a turbonetics 38mm gate for 25. Yay!

Anyway, The size of the inlet and outlet of the turbo looked substantial, so I took a risk. Came home, and measured the inducer, and exducer. 2.12 inducer, and 2.95 exducer, which comes back as a 50 trim.

My question is: The cover plate is marked as a M24 .50A/R Cover. How does this particular setup flow? Or is it just some compressor cover hogged out to the compressor wheel?

Usually, when I see "Garrett 50 Trim" Turbos, they are marked as a .63 or .60 a/r Compressor side, but I am going from observation, not knowledge, which is why I seek you guys for more info!

ALSO, on the last picture, one of the blades on the wheel has the edge folded back as you can see. Will this be alright? Or will I need a new wheel?

Kapok6 · 06-26-2012, 02:45 PM

It looks like some of those fins made contact with the compressor housing.

JusMX141 · 06-26-2012, 02:52 PM

The leading edge of the compressor blades are not straight, so it's not a 50-trim....and it's blown to hell judging by the damage to the inducer tips from rubbing the cover. There's likely the same amount of wear on the turbine wheel, so I'm figuring that it's scrap unless you replace the entire CHRA.

The deal on the Deltagate is pretty good...it's hard to find a low-profile 2-bolt gate like that, and some guys pay big money for Turbonetics wastegates for some reason. I sold that exact gate for $150ish on eBay after replacing a torn diaphragm a few years ago.

DSMDEMON93 · 06-26-2012, 02:59 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JusMX141

The leading edge of the compressor blades are not straight, so it's not a 50-trim....and it's blown to hell judging by the damage to the inducer tips from rubbing the cover. There's likely the same amount of wear on the turbine wheel, so I'm figuring that it's scrap unless you replace the entire CHRA.

The deal on the Deltagate is pretty good...it's hard to find a low-profile 2-bolt gate like that, and some guys pay big money for Turbonetics wastegates for some reason. I sold that exact gate for $150ish on eBay after replacing a torn diaphragm a few years ago.

Aww darn, well shoot. If it is the same size compressor wheel, what does it seem I have?

Believe it or not, The turbine wheel is flawless! I'm stumped. There is in and out/side to side play, it needs a rebuild, since the oil seals are shot, from the turbine wheel wet with oil.

Thank you, I love the look of the delta wastegates, so old. Nostalgic, and solid.

JusMX141 · 06-26-2012, 04:07 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSMDEMON93

Aww darn, well shoot. If it is the same size compressor wheel, what does it seem I have?

Who knows...something that was supposed to be bigger but ended up much smaller as a result of the shaft play. E54? E57? E60? Your guess is as good as mine.

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSMDEMON93

Believe it or not, The turbine wheel is flawless!

...that you can tell, visually. With that much compressor damage it's pretty safe to assume the turbine is bent, resulting from the compressor wheel hitting the housing at full operating speed.

Like I said, the compressor wheel is hosed, the turbine is probably bent, and I'm sure the compressor cover also sustained some damage from the wheel rubbing so it's trash too. You basically spent $50 on a T3-flanged turbine housing.

DSMDEMON93 · 06-26-2012, 07:25 PM

*sniff sniff* dangit! Oh well, at least I got a deltagate

But, understanding that the turbo is blown to crap, I really want to investigate what it is, because of it's size. The previous owner told me he blew his motor on his accord at 10psi...not that its relevant, just funny, muahaha. But all jokes aside, I just want to ID it instead of leaving it as "Turbo xxx"

JusMX141 · 06-27-2012, 07:48 AM

It's a T04E-something. We don't know the compressor inducer spec for sure, and there's zero info about the turbine wheel so far.

The turbo probably blew because the guy's engine blew. Dirty oil will kill a turbo in no time.

DSMDEMON93 · 06-28-2012, 06:41 PM

How can I gather more information about the wheels? Also, one more question, I noticed the shaft is bent as well, but you mentioned that I would need to replace the chra? Why not just replace the shaft and wheel? Sorry, I just love learning about turbo stuff. I WANT TO KNOW MORE.

JusMX141 · 06-28-2012, 10:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by DSMDEMON93

How can I gather more information about the wheels? Also, one more question, I noticed the shaft is bent as well, but you mentioned that I would need to replace the chra? Why not just replace the shaft and wheel? Sorry, I just love learning about turbo stuff. I WANT TO KNOW MORE.

When the shaft bends, it wrecks the turbine seal lip on the shaft as well as the sealing area inside the center housing....so plan on the shaft and the center housing being junk. Add to that all the internals being trashed, the compressor wheel being damaged, and you'll find it's far cheaper to buy a complete CHRA instead of buying all of the parts individually. It's sort-of like buying a new car off the lot versus piecing one together on your own one part at a time...what's cheaper and much easier to do?

Even after you'd figure out exactly what wheels it has, you're looking at around $500 for a new CHRA to repair a T04E turbo that is basically antique as far as efficiency is concerned when compared to what's available today.

DSMDEMON93 · 06-29-2012, 11:16 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by JusMX141

When the shaft bends, it wrecks the turbine seal lip on the shaft as well as the sealing area inside the center housing....so plan on the shaft and the center housing being junk. Add to that all the internals being trashed, the compressor wheel being damaged, and you'll find it's far cheaper to buy a complete CHRA instead of buying all of the parts individually. It's sort-of like buying a new car off the lot versus piecing one together on your own one part at a time...what's cheaper and much easier to do?

Even after you'd figure out exactly what wheels it has, you're looking at around $500 for a new CHRA to repair a T04E turbo that is basically antique as far as efficiency is concerned when compared to what's available today.

Ahhh I see. That makes sense now. I never would have thought the chra could undergo such damage, but then again, anything at 140,000 rpm will screw crap up. Well I learned some good turbo information this week. Thanks for the insight Justin!