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Holset HX40 no tag, weird compressor cover.

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Talonious

10+ Year Contributor
52
2
Oct 23, 2010
Mason, Ohio
Im wondering if i can get some info about this thing. It fits my t3 vband housing, it has a 6-blade 60mm comressor inducer, and lastly a 12-blade exhaust exducer. There is no in-out shaft play, just a slight movement side-side enought to feel not hear. I set up a jig and ran a 5-place dial indicator on it and i dont think .009mm is alot of radial movement.

Im wondering why it has a compressor cover that says volvo and looks like cast steel. ive seen a hx-52 with this compressor cover but not a hx40. thought they came with cast aluminum covers..

The center-section is coolant cooled. Do I have to use coolant or can i block it off.

The exhaust housing doesnt seem to clock the turbo in anyway. Can i clock it any way i want so my ERL doesnt throw my compressor outlet into my fans.

Lastly the center-section's oil feed is not tapped for any bsp,-an or npt fitting. Do you usually tap these..

Thanks
 

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Who knows what it was originally from, but the rotating assembly is the same as any other cast 60mm 6-blade compressor / 12-blade turbine combo.

I honestly wouldn't attempt to use that turbo without a rebuild, it's in pretty rough shape. You have no clue what the inside of the cartridge looks like if it's that nasty on the outside.

You'll need a Garrett T3 oil feed adapter; no coolant necessary.
 
I havent tore it down yet as i just recieved it today. Usally these are component balanced with the 12-point nut on the shaft and missing material from both compressor wheels so i shouldnt run into too many issues.

Either way do i have to supply coolant to this thing and are these exhaust housings clockable in any rotation..
 
Both housings can rotate 360*; as stated in the last sentence of the previous post, no coolant.

In fact you could probably just pull the two 16mm plugs and just let air flow through the water jacket, like:

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Justin, what color is that one you just posted (if you painted it)? Looking for options for a finish on mine and that matched my body almost perfect, if it was a puff can i'd love to know what brand and color name.
 
oh ok i didn't know you could just leave them open. also i have a pretty good endmill and tap set ill just tap it out for -4an.

do you think there is any difference in flow or heat with the cast steel compressor cover.

sorry i cant type the question mark symbol my keyboards shift key decided to die from over-gatorad-ation
 
oh ok i didn't know you could just leave them open. also i have a pretty good endmill and tap set ill just tap it out for -4an.

do you think there is any difference in flow or heat with the cast steel compressor cover.

sorry i cant type the question mark symbol my keyboards shift key decided to die from over-gatorad-ation

Just my take on a few of these, justin's may differ and he's more knowledgable on holsets than i am by far, but;

On the water, yea, you cna leave em open, the general rule of thumb with water or no water is that you always want to do some "turbo timer" idle time without water cooling and with water cooling as long as you weren't really beating on the turbo heating it up it will be cool enough to just shut it off without idle time because the coolant keeps the temps lower than that of which your oil would coke in the CHRA

The compressor cover being cast steel over aluminum might hold a little more heat but it's not going to be enough to effect the air intake charge temps enough to be notable on a data log, the air is gonna come out so hot anyway that you're depending on your intercooler to take care of anything in that temperature range.. only other thing is it's heavier

I would NOT tap or machine on the turbo inlet/outlet fittings unless you're planning on rebuilding it and doing a damn good flush after your done machining and before it's re-asembled, a small piece of trash will tear the bearings out fast, not to mention feeding a cast steel shaving into your engines oil pump and hope the filter is it's last and only stop. Even if it is just the water side you want to machine/tap, you would want to be -6 or larger on the water feed. you are fine with -4 on oil feed on the housing on a DSM ( some diesel feed line spec from OEM apps are 3/8th" ID wich is the same as -6AN )

if it is the oil feed you're talking about tapping, go this route

here's a link and you can put any fitting you want into it
Aluminum - Oil Inlet Flange (T3) : atpturbo.com

the t3 oil adapters aren't that much money at all and takes any fitting you thread into it, and is a lot safer to modify than the CHRA housing if you choose to do a custom fitting

HOpe that helps ya out some, also i think those holsets are from things like Fuso or Hino like box trucks as far as what they came off of, but justin would know better than I would on that part for sure, i've only recently become a holset owner and he's had many of them and worked on even more.. I was trained on garretts, MHI, and rayjay units when i was getting into and was going to work for a living in turbochargers


edit: i don't think that compressor is cast steel, it looks aluminum by the type of oxidation on it, i'd almost garauntee it's aluminum
 
Justin, what color is that one you just posted (if you painted it)? Looking for options for a finish on mine and that matched my body almost perfect, if it was a puff can i'd love to know what brand and color name.
Same color as your car. ;)

I mixed it at work for a local guy so it would match his car. :D

i have a pretty good endmill and tap set ill just tap it out for -4an.
While the turbo is apart, drill and tap the inlet for either 12mm x 1.5 or 1/4" NPT threads. The hole which exists is already larger than 1/8" NPT.
do you think there is any difference in flow or heat with the cast steel compressor cover.
You have an aluminum cover. I've never seen a turbo with a steel compressor cover.

is that hot side on the red holset ceramic coated?
Not exactly....it's a trade secret I do to every turbo I rebuild. ;)

I was trained on garretts, MHI, and rayjay units when i was getting into and was going to work for a living in turbochargers
You're showing your age, Glenn- RaJay's been out of business for a while. LOL
 
Same color as your car. ;)

I mixed it at work for a local guy so it would match his car. :D




You're showing your age, Glenn- RaJay's been out of business for a while. LOL

For # 1 (would love a price on a pint of p88 mixed and shipped to 68130, om me if ya can or would)

as for # 2 ... SSHHHhhhhhhh!!! LOL I feel like a frickin dinosour anyway, oh well i guess LOL however i wasn't aware rayjay was no longer around, just thought they were still mainly aviation use
 
Update;

Shaft measures in the untouched spots at .43175 inch and the shiny spots measure at .43150 inch.

Bearings also have shiny spots in them near the center where most oiling is seen. Untouched spots on the I.D. measure .43200 inch max inscribe, and shiny spots measure .43220 inch LSQ.

I think this will be fine with a polish, outsides of bearing look alright as well as the insides.

I want to do a runout, cylindricity, and concentricity test on the shaft before re-assembly first though to test for bent shaft, out-of-round, etc.

Thanks for all the help guys i appreciate your knowledge.

ans p.s. those smaller c-clips are a pita. jesus
 

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Lookin' great so far- the shaft will polish right up with some scotch-brite. Thrust collar shows a little bit of heat but nothing too serious....it was a good idea to rebuild for sure. :thumb:

ans p.s. those smaller c-clips are a pita. jesus
Wait til you're trying to put them back in. :D
 
Lookin' great so far- the shaft will polish right up with some scotch-brite. Thrust collar shows a little bit of heat but nothing too serious....it was a good idea to rebuild for sure. :thumb:


Wait til you're trying to put them back in. :D

Yeah i was going to just polish everything up and throw it all back together.

Do you think it may be a better idea to give it new seals and thrust bearings?

Im just concerned about getting a rebuild kit with cheap chinese components. I would need a genuine OE rebuild kit. Ive turned up some searches but i have no faith in the kit, coming from a Metrology Lab manager standpoint I wouldn't vouch for China's Quality and Metrics standards.
 
I would go with a rebuild kit just because of the heat marks on the thrust collar, the heat could have possibly caused changes in the bearings or added wear to the rings at worst, but since you have it apart why not replace the things that you can for cheap and at least get the new thrust collar and sealing rings (come call piston rings, but the ones at the turbine and compressor ends)

And yea, them tiny clips are "fun" if you like sticking things in electrical outlets you'll love the install of them LOL
 
That sounds good, do you know of any good OE rebuild kits for this turbo, like i said im not sure whats tried and true.
 
i've been getting mine at midwest turbo connection.com

here's a link to their holset kits, justin may have a better suggestion, but g-pop ship also sells them

Holset Turbo Rebuild Kits
 
Awesome..Something i just noticed, when i pulled this turbo apart, the compressor cover didnt have a o-ring seal and no o-ring for the seal plate. wow.
 
the compressor cover can be taken care of with a thin bead of silicone but none at the seal plate is, well, that's a new one LOL
 
Do you think it may be a better idea to give it new seals and thrust bearings?
Do you tear engines down just to clean everything up and reassemble them with the same rings and bearings?
Im just concerned about getting a rebuild kit with cheap chinese components. I would need a genuine OE rebuild kit. Ive turned up some searches but i have no faith in the kit, coming from a Metrology Lab manager standpoint I wouldn't vouch for China's Quality and Metrics standards.
So- go to a local Cummins dealer and buy a Genuine parts kit. Part number 3575169.
 
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