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replace turbo coolant line

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LKWTSI

15+ Year Contributor
601
10
Feb 7, 2008
Lake Wylie, South Carolina
Does anyone know if there's a kit out there to replace the turbo coolant lines? I've looked at some vendors and see oil kits, but no water kits. I'm trying to replace the hose clamps and banjos to -AN fittings.

Any ideas on what needs to be done at the thermostat housing with the nipple? I presume it has to be cut off and tapped or do you replace the housing with some after market one and if so, where do you get it.

I have a E3B16G and if someone wants to convince me that running the turbo without it, I'll listen, but have read all the threads on the pros and cons:sneaky:

But always willing to listen to good arguments for such a mod.

Thanks.
 
Dont run the turbo without coolant.

Fittings. You need AN to Straight thread adapters. they are out there. These simply screw into the straight thread water ports on your turbo and seal with an aluminium crush washer. Here are a couple options. Earl's Performance 991945ERL which is a straight thread for 8$ in or Earl's Performance 807691ERL Which is a banjo fitting with hose end for 22$. It might be a few bucks cheaper to use the banjo's.
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**Please check your sizes on the banjos! different turbos have different threads.** i believe the 14b is either 12 or 14mm, but i cannot honestly recall!

12mm x 1.5
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-670510/
14mm x 1.5
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-670520/
16mm x 1.5
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/RUS-670530

12mm x 1.25
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/EAR-991945ERL/





Water Pipe. Replace the coolant line with this fitting. Fragola Performance Systems 491963
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Thermostat Housing Mods. You have a couple options here. You can weld the same fitting you used for the waterpipe onto factory nipple. Or you could just slide the braided hose over the nipple and clamp it.

Or, you can pull the nipple out with vice grips and tap the hole, thread you new water fitting into here. I believe 1/8npt is about the right size. Hole might be too big for it though. Earl's Performance 981662ERL

Other option is to pull the nipple out, plug that hole. Pull the stupid vacuum switch out of the housing and use a NPT to AN adapter. 3/8npt threads in there pretty well. though im sure thats not what thread it is from the factory. Earl's Performance 981666ERL
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i used 90 degree swivel hose ends and straight fittings coming out the turbo :) about 6 feet of an hose should be plenty.
 

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Thanks for the input.:thumb: I've been going round and round on the ideas of what fittings to use and you seem to have the same ideas I was running up to, although the thermostat housing I hadn't thought of the plug the nipple idea. Going out to the shop to look at it right now. :hellyeah:
 
good link, i forgot the water line on the tube was threaded!!!!

if you cant find that exotic fitting it would be easy enough to tap it out for NPT and use a readily available fitting...but i updated my post above to count for it. good find 91

on my water tube that bi*** was so rusted in there i just cut it out and called it good! its easier to weld it than fight with it.

on my neck i plugged the little bleed hole on the back, the oil cooler nipple and the vacuum switch port. it looks ALOT cleaner than stock.

also, while you are there you can replace the fitting off the rear of the thermostat housing with a -10 and run a braided line to that side of the heater core. its a REAL bi*** to get the end of the braided hose over the heater core..but it is possible. :)

Let me take a picture of the 5spd car tomorrow, it prob looks similar to the ideas you are kicking around.
 

EXACTLY what I needed to see. Cheers.:thumb:

good link, i forgot the water line on the tube was threaded!!!!

if you cant find that exotic fitting it would be easy enough to tap it out for NPT and use a readily available fitting...but i updated my post above to count for it. good find 91

on my water tube that bi*** was so rusted in there i just cut it out and called it good! its easier to weld it than fight with it.

on my neck i plugged the little bleed hole on the back, the oil cooler nipple and the vacuum switch port. it looks ALOT cleaner than stock.

also, while you are there you can replace the fitting off the rear of the thermostat housing with a -10 and run a braided line to that side of the heater core. its a REAL bi*** to get the end of the braided hose over the heater core..but it is possible. :)

Let me take a picture of the 5spd car tomorrow, it prob looks similar to the ideas you are kicking around.

I appreciate the fact of the pipe thread being rusted solid. I'm in the middle of a complete rebuild and prep for the track. So getting mine out was a breeze (lots of heat and out it came) as for the heater, my car has gone on a major diet, http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/lkwtsi/1866-build-continues-sloooowly.html and I don't have the heat or A/C in the car any more, hence wondering how I'm going to plug some of the nipples on the neck. BUT I certainly would like to see your work and although I don't run coolant to the heater anymore, your mod's are along the line of what I'm going through, so big Thanks.:D

Here's a pic' of mine after I heated up the Tee and removed the pipe going back to the firewall. I just plated it and welded it good for the seal and repainted it. Now I just have to get the fancy dancy fitting for the -AN.
 

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Dont run the turbo without coolant.

Fittings. You need AN to Straight thread adapters. they are out there. These simply screw into the straight thread water ports on your turbo and seal with an aluminium crush washer. Here are a couple options. Earl's Performance 991945ERL which is a straight thread for 8$ in or Earl's Performance 807691ERL Which is a banjo fitting with hose end for 22$. It might be a few bucks cheaper to use the banjo's.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.
You must be logged in to view this image or video.

**Please check your sizes on the banjos! different turbos have different threads.** i believe the 14b is either 12 or 14mm, but i cannot honestly recall!

12mm x 1.5
Russell Performance 670510 - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
14mm x 1.5
Russell Performance 670520 - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com
16mm x 1.5
Russell Performance 670530 - Russell AN to Metric Adapter Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com

12mm x 1.25
Earl s Performance 991945ERL - Earl's Performance Carburetor Inlet Fittings - Overview - SummitRacing.com





Water Pipe. Replace the coolant line with this fitting. Fragola Performance Systems 491963
You must be logged in to view this image or video.




Thermostat Housing Mods. You have a couple options here. You can weld the same fitting you used for the waterpipe onto factory nipple. Or you could just slide the braided hose over the nipple and clamp it.

Or, you can pull the nipple out with vice grips and tap the hole, thread you new water fitting into here. I believe 1/8npt is about the right size. Hole might be too big for it though. Earl's Performance 981662ERL

Other option is to pull the nipple out, plug that hole. Pull the stupid vacuum switch out of the housing and use a NPT to AN adapter. 3/8npt threads in there pretty well. though im sure thats not what thread it is from the factory. Earl's Performance 981666ERL
You must be logged in to view this image or video.



i used 90 degree swivel hose ends and straight fittings coming out the turbo :) about 6 feet of an hose should be plenty.

Bringing this up for the grateful dead...but shouldn't the fitting that goes on the water pipe not have a hole through it? I bought the fitting to block off my water piipe and looked at it and realized would water still run through it?

Someone please correct me and cure my brain fart as I don't understand how it blocks it off while still having a hole through the middle. :ohdamn:
 

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Bringing this up for the grateful dead...but shouldn't the fitting that goes on the water pipe not have a hole through it? I bought the fitting to block off my water piipe and looked at it and realized would water still run through it?

Someone please correct me and cure my brain fart as I don't understand how it blocks it off while still having a hole through the middle. :ohdamn:

You're right. Something with a hole through the middle probably won't block anything off. :)

Here's an affordable option if you're looking to block off the water pipe: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/newbie-forum/407102-90-throttle-body-tps-swap.html#post152635781
 
Back From The Dead Again....

The posted link (tech article) shows a 90* angle used on the rear of the turbo for coolant. I have seen some say it wont clear, and I have seen some say they run it with 90*

But more Importantly:

What thread pitch is the thermostat vacuum line adapter switch thing on the 1g thermostat housing? I think I will go that route until I decide to pull and tap the housing (for other stuff too).
 
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