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What is everybody doing about their TD05 wg??

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Aphix

10+ Year Contributor
320
1
Aug 14, 2008
Salina, Kansas
I'm am getting boost creep like crazy. I know this is a very very very common problem on the TD05, because I have read just about every post on it. I'm still mind boggled as to what I should do to fix this thing. :toobad: I have a 14b with a 16g hot side. I picked it up off a local guy who told me he was doing 23 psi off of it, so I'm convinced he had no idea it was an issue. I'm shooting for 15 psi right now.

I know all the basic fixes: port the turbo inlet, port the wastegate for 90 degree rotation, port the o2 housing, take out the divider in the housing, get a 34mm flapper, do Peepers wastegate mod. I'm not considering external wastegate that is just overkill for this small of a build.

The thing is I am pretty well convinced that this turbo has received some port work in the past :hmm: on account that A. there is little or no metal above the wastegate flange inside the turbo inlet where it is key to port. And B. the wg flapper opens a good 90 degrees if not more already. Also, my O2 housing was made with no divider. I'm running 3" turboback with no cat and I know that's where I'm losing back pressure.

I have read a good dozen posts on how to port out your turbo and wastegate and such and they all talk about how to open up your wastegate so it can swing open the full 90, but what is everybody doing to their wastegate to allow it to travel that full 90 degrees? I can't imagine everybody does peepers mod, that's a pretty intimidating/time consuming project, so what are they doing to get the full 90 degree travel? :confused:
 
I suggest just purchasing the required mods to run higher boost levels and never look back. Pretty much the stuff in your parts wishlist will get it done. Plus a larger fuel pump.
 
The turbo was installed. But due to the retaining bolt on the crank timing sprocket coming loose and consequently slipping, its currently strapped up and resting on my downpipe with the head and manifolds off. And I will begin driving and the turbo will wind up to 20+ psi like theres no delay and it will sit there til fuel cut hits. So its not spike. And yeah I want to run 15 psi steady through the rpms.
 
I thought you havn't installed the tirbo yet and are complaining about something you don't even know is happening..

I've heard going to external wastgate works great..My 16g will creep to 20 psi as well, but I don't hit cut at all, it just keeps going faster...But my buddy with a 96 tsi put on a 3 inch all the way back and could not control boost to save his life..That might also be a problem..
 
The only way to work with 15 psi wether you want to hear it or not is unfortunately getting an extrnal wastegate.
My 2 dsm friends run them and let me tell you whatever boost they dial in it holds exactly there, and i myself will be going external wastegate as well for the proven fact it works flawlessly.
 
I know all the basic fixes: port the turbo inlet, port the wastegate for 90 degree rotation, port the o2 housing, take out the divider in the housing, get a 34mm flapper, do Peepers wastegate mod.
Just porting to allow the flapper to open to 90* is a waste of time. There isn't a factory actuator made that will allow that much arm travel.

Even doing the Peepers actuator mod is useless if your exhaust system doesn't have enough restriction:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blogs/mr-peepers/455-boost-creep.html
 
Yeah I agree its too much flow from the 3" turboback, but is there no other wastegate actuator that can be adapted that has a longer throw? That would allow me to use the full 90 degrees of the wastegate flapper.

Just porting to allow the flapper to open to 90* is a waste of time. There isn't a factory actuator made that will allow that much arm travel.

Even doing the Peepers actuator mod is useless if your exhaust system doesn't have enough restriction:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/blog...ost-creep.html

I know I can regulate it if I do that because I've tested it and it wont build any boost with the flapper door detached from the actuator arm. Nobody on here has ever adapted a different wastegate with a longer throw on it?
 
Double post OMG!

I'm following up on my issue with my 14b with 16g hot side. I decided that looking through the exhaust inlet wasn't good enough and finally yanked off the hot side or 16g part of the turbo, this is what I found..

You can see here the area that the flapper door covers, I measured the flapper at roughly 1 3/8" or 34mm

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However in this picture you can see the wastegate flange is dramatically smaller, in fact its only 3/4" or 19 mm; that's nearly HALF THE SIZE of the flapper door itself. This is my problem. I have always read about people doing "a little porting to the flange" or what I considered like 2 mm, because it was my understanding that the flange wasn't much smaller than the door, which would make alot more sense.

I've heard of people buying like a 1 1/8" drill bit or something and running it through the wastegate hole. Does anybody have a specific size that I should use on this? I've heard 24mm, 30mm etc. In all reality I don't see myself going to much of a high pressure on this turbo so I'm not worried about high pressure operations.

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Also, when I was inspecting the housing I found that the shaft holding my flapper would slide around alot. Here is a shot of the play in it and where it should be:

Where it should be:

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Where it will slide to:

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That just doesn't seem right to me, it looks like it could make for a poorly functioning wg. Should I tack weld that piece into place?
 
If the spring in the actuator is a 20psi spring you won't get any lower than 20. My ebay 16g was like that. My new MHI is a 12psi spring (I think) and I adjusted it to run 15 for a while and now I daily drive 20psi. Like it was stated at the top, I would buy the mods to run 20 safely and never look back. :D
 
I guess the seller didnt exactly specify what make of housing it was. That does make sense though. It seems to be holding up well, theres no cracks in it.

If the spring in the actuator is a 20psi spring you won't get any lower than 20. My ebay 16g was like that. My new MHI is a 12psi spring (I think) and I adjusted it to run 15 for a while and now I daily drive 20psi. Like it was stated at the top, I would buy the mods to run 20 safely and never look back. :D

The thing is the only way I want to go is DSMLink and I dont have that kindof money, and if I did I wouldnt be spending my time with a 14b LOL. I have tested the WGA at 10 psi and it was beginning to actuate.

Would the best way to port out the flange be to use a carbite bit? Which one? And to what diameter should I port it if I'm shooting for 15 psi?
 
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That's ridiculous.

That sleeve is intended to be PRESSED into the housing. Just shows the quality of Chinese steel these days. Definitely tack weld the sleeve in place. If not you'll certainly be facing poor wastegate operation.




In addition you may want to port that wastegate hole in order to at least make it useful:

Before:

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After:

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That would have definitely made me rethink buying the turbo had I known that or knew that I should watch out for that when I'd bought it. Am I going to be able to tack weld it down onto cast iron ok? I thought you brazed something like that.

And porting is the plan. What kindof dye grinder bit would be ideal for this?
 
I weld cast with my Mig all the time. You have to dial it in to get good penetration, but it's no problem at all when you're simply making two or three tiny tack welds.

I use a drum-type carbide bit to open up the wastegate holes evenly.
 
Be carefull when porting the wastegate hole larger. Buddy ported a little to much and the flapper would not close completely. Had to tac weld the flapper to get correct seal.
 
i used a die grinder as seen in the pic attached. also my 16g flapper port was def not that small and not even my 14b. Im very surprised to see it that small, i dont think thats oem. I did some mild porting to mine as seen in pic but not that much.
if you do the porting be patient and take your time, if you go too big youre screwed.
also i have access to a nice shop with really good constant air pressure. I did almost all my porting on that.

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Then i did some touch up with my compressor at home and it took alot longer as most average sized compressors at home cant keep enough pressure in the tank to keep the bit running at full speed, so it may take awhile if this is what youre going to use. but do it, I did some mild porting to my 16g and i have no problem with creep, now i just need to fix the stupid oil return line leak.:hmm:

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Ok thanks for the pictures of the porting I'll be sure to post up shots when I'm finished. I always wondered why my boost wouldn't hardly even react to the wastegate opening, but this makes alot more sense now.

And I think a good way to avoid over-porting would be to use a sharpie and go around the flange where you want to stop taking off metal. That always works good for me on these sorts of things.
 
Just finished porting. I'll get some shots up in a bit I dont have the camera at the moment.

Right now I'm rebuilding the top end on my engine because of some timing belt issues. The retaining bolt on the crank timing sprocket became progressively looser until it sheared the key off. So I am looking for a head gasket kit, timing belt kit, new water pump, some good quality head studs, I might be missing some components. Does anybody have some recommendations for these parts? I want good quality parts, I just dont want to bend over for racing components on an engine that isn't going to see more that 20 psi. Does anyone have an opinion on ebay kits? I hear alot of mixed reviews.


Click on them for a higher resolution:

In this shot you can see how the retaining bolt has become so loose that its hitting the frame.
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Here is the sheared sprocket:
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