boost with no go?!?!?!?!

[casperfast]

Originally Posted by Ceddy

This means you have a large leak somewhere, you should be able to hold pressure for at least 10 seconds.

I have never had to manually set ATDC, if you suspect its leaking out the valves turn it over once(after you take your tester off the turbo), there isn't a lot of overlap on turbo cams.

If you can only build 10 psi, I suspect you have a large leak somewhere, I was boosting to 22 psi (14B) with many leaks.

I have had large leaks when the compressor cover o-ring dry rotted, and the TB shafts seals wore out.

i can boost more if i put the boost controller on, it will go over 20, but now i have it stock at the gate. i checked my plugs, they r fine

[casperfast]

i find it really hard to believe that no one has ecountered this problem. anyone?

[casperfast]

what could make the car do this only when its warmed up or in closed loop mode? it never hessitates when its cold. and my autometer doesnt match my stock gauge its higher. i am o stumped

[airmail96]

The stock gauge is just an ecu calculation of what your boost is. I know in my car I can build boost, but I have a bad case of phantom knock once that happens I'll be at 10 psi, but my knock will be causing my timing to be retarded. Do you have a logger or anything of that sort?

[casperfast]

no, i wish i had alogger. i have trouble saving money for my car with my girlfriend. but i have about $300 saved for dsmlink. im almost there. im a caterpillar technician and she works at starbucks. so i pay everything but this problem with my car is buggin the hell outta me.
it is not:
-boost leak
-egr malfunction
-fuel pump
-a/f ratio
-spark plugs and wires
-turbo
-exhaust leak
-vacume leak

those are what ive tested. but i did run it with the knock sensor unplugged which will retard i know but the symptom didnt change. oh and im getting about 11 miles per gallon

[KelTsi90]

Have you done a compression test. Also check the intake manifold gasket. It can leak.

[casperfast]

yesterday i was checking my wires again and in one of my coil packs the inside was worn out and there was black coal like powder in there. i think i may have found my problem

[KelTsi90]

Hey, Have you resolved the problem yet??

I was having a problem like this but it was that as soon I past the 10psi of boost the fuel pressure fell down. The car sputters and stopped boosting, and my WB read from 11.4 to 15.3 instantly. I founded this out because I have a fuel pressure gauge inside of my car. If you have an fp gauge check it out while boosting. When I was cleaning the filter of the fuel pump, I founded out that one of the yellow cables on top of the fuel pump was no making contact, I welded it and problem resolved. Before this the fuel pump was making a loud sound and now it is very quiet.

[casperfast]

mine only does it when its warmed up, the most. and its whenever i boost. i can floor it and it will downshift and boost up and go until i hit fuel cut. it still boost normally . if i try to normally accelerate it stutters and revs up verry slowly until about 3200 rpm. im pretty sure its my coil.... i hope


another thought.i was considering a coil on plug set up since im gonna replace my coils. what are the different coils i can use? i know the 300m/intrepid ones are common. but why do you need toyota connectors instead of the origonal ones?

[MY1GDSM]

Don't get a COP setup unless you plan on Buying a CDI

[LandoAWD]

Wait, wait, wait...are you really trying to "troubleshoot" by adding variables? I hope you don't do any sort of support role for a job...

[casperfast]

what do u mean adding varriables? and what is a cdi?

[casperfast]

ok, the C.O.P. set up is working fine. i am gapped at .026 same problem. i think somthing is pulling timming. should i throw a new knock sensor on it?