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Spyder 4g64 to 4g63 Swap Pics

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Spyder4g64

15+ Year Contributor
356
2
Mar 9, 2005
Wallingford, Connecticut
Heres just a couple of pics i took doing the motor swap on my 98 N/T Spyder. Im going from a 4g64 to a 4g63. Its kind of an easy swap, no major problems yet. Ive seen alot of posts regauring this topic and im here to help anyone who needs it.

Thats my JDM counterpart in the engine bay. Haha. Had to add a JDM touch.
 
Hmmm. Nice. But I would have opted for the built 2.4L bottomend and DOHC head. 2.4L turbo would have been nice in a Spyder...hmmm where have I seen that before LOL.
 
Defiant said:
Yeh. There is no "JDM" for DSMs. They're American cars.

That's not totally true...

The 4g63 was also in place in the Galant VR4 overseas...
They're exactally the same... unless you get the engine w/ the yellow capped injectors which means you have the 16g turbo on it as well
 
Spyder4g64 said:
& thats precisely the motor i have. 510cc Injectors and an evo 3 16g. JDM!

That's awesome dude...
If you don't mind me asking... how much did you pay for the motor and where did you find it???
 
Spyder4g64 said:
You're thinking of the 420a... The 4g64 is almost identical to the 4g63 except its single cam, and it's a 2.4 litre. The 420a's tranny is on the opposite side.

damn i didnt know that. what about the wiring harness and such? would the 2g ecu just swap right in there?
 
The mtotor i got from an overseas company like a year ago... i cant remember the name. I paid $2050 shipped to my door. Gaurenteed 50k to 7500 miles. The swap is strait forward, 4g64 wiring harness and all. Its basically the same as 1g in a 2g. The 2g turbo ecu swaps in with the fuel pump rewire. Alot of people say that the 4g64 doesnt come with a knock sensor, but thats because its on the intake manifold, weird, i know. I was just using the harness so everything was perfect. :thumb:
 
Spyder4g64 said:
The mtotor i got from an overseas company like a year ago... i cant remember the name. I paid $2050 shipped to my door. Gaurenteed 50k to 7500 miles. The swap is strait forward, 4g64 wiring harness and all. Its basically the same as 1g in a 2g. The 2g turbo ecu swaps in with the fuel pump rewire. Alot of people say that the 4g64 doesnt come with a knock sensor, but thats because its on the intake manifold, weird, i know. I was just using the harness so everything was perfect. :thumb:

There is no knock sensor on the 2.4 spyder. Im currently using the turbo ecu and I had to put a knock sensor in to properly run the car.
 
There was a knock sensor on my 4g64, in the bends of the intake manifold. I plugged in the 2g Turbo knock sensor right into there. Idk, i didnt get the car fired up yet, but im almost positive about this.
 
Spyder4g64 said:
There was a knock sensor on my 4g64, in the bends of the intake manifold. I plugged in the 2g Turbo knock sensor right into there. Idk, i didnt get the car fired up yet, but im almost positive about this.

Hmmm. If it was on the intake manifold then most likely its not a knock sensor. It would have to be on the block to work correctly, so take the knock sensor you put on the manifold and put it on the block. Check you wiring because there is no pin for a knock sensor on the 4g64 ecu harness. Verify this on you ecu harness because the knock sensor for the turbo ecu will be on pin/terminal 78, so if there is no wire on the harness on pin 28 then youll need to wire in the knock sensor. Im not trying to doubt you, just trying to help.
 
No, I understand, thank you. Theres a problem im trying to fix right now thats at the top of my list. The flywheel is jammed in the transmission, and therefore is jamming the starter (actually fried the starter). I turned the motor by the crank pulley and it turns smoothly to a certain point, and then "jams" up. Personally i think its the starter plate, probobly a little crooked or "off" in between the bell housing and the block. Maybe the
4g64 trans isnt meant to mate with the 4g63 flywheel, but in that case ill use a 2g GST trans. Im going to drop the trans as soon as i get a chance and let everyone know whats wrong. :thumb:
 
Good thread since as you mentioned, there isn't much talk about this swap.
 
Just a couple more pics. The motor was sitting a little crooked, but thats because i used the 1g "L" bracket. I needed to use the 2g motor mount trimmed. I changed that yesterday so its nice and straight now. :thumb:
 
the one time i did the swap i used a gst tranny so i didnt ran into any problem like that
sorry cant be of any more help
 
Anyone attempting this swap, THIS IS FOR YOU! Just some info you might not be able to find elsewhere.

The transmission has a "bump" in it that needs to be shaved down with a die-grinder, or something similar. Once that was accomplished, it started right up.

The fuel pump modifications i performed were found here: http://home.roadrunner.com/~chadnmichelle/ecuswap.htm

DO NOT LEAVE THE N/A SPYDER FUEL PUMP IN! I learned the hard way, with no wideband, and im on my second motor. Just opt for a $90 Walbro 255lph for the gst. It fits right in.

Correcting myself, the 4g64 DOES NOT have a knock sensor, and i was dumb to think it did.. but anyway, the knock sensor needs to be wired from the sensor, to the ecu. And when doing so, make sure that the wire is sheilded, preventing any "phantom knock" that the signal might pick up.

Any other questions, just PM me, ill be happy to help anyone.
 
im curious, what had to be ground down? Was it inside the bell housing? Anyway good job on the swap. imo you should have used the 2.4 block or turbo the single cam... like me!
 

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Im not for anything 7-bolt.. LOL

You also did a nice job. I like that air filter that allows room for the fuse box. My fuse box is tucked under my intake pipe for the time being, until the GM MAF comes around. :D

There is a slight "bump" inside the bell housing, that the flywheel would get stuck on.
 
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