t28 killer turbo blew, need input!

[Denji]

Okay my friends, the t28 killer on my car has expired. The compressor wheel started scraping the side of the the inlet and i heard it and took it off. The turbo was sent to turbochargers.com who has recieved it and explained that it needs a new cartridge. Total cost with a new oil feed line is 675 dollars shipped to my door repaired.

When i asked if they diagnosed the cause they said that there may have been some metal in the oil at some point and it got in the turbo.

The turbo was bought used a year ago, and they said it may have been from the previous owner, or my car, because damage such as that could slowy progress to turbo failure, not necessarily meaning that this happened recently. I know nothing of the history of this turbo.

I do not know what to do, I only have 700 to spend and im afraid to replace the turbo for fear that the problem may be with my car and it will simply happen again. I would just check the oil for shavings, but i just changed it a week before the turbo blew, so i suspect there would be a lack of contamination either way.

I put this turbo on my car around 15,000 miles ago, i didnt change oil lines, always warmed up and turbo timed. There is no other apparent problem with the car, i wouldnt have even noticed the turbo was gone if i didnt hear the noise, it drives fine. Please help me make a sound decision. -Brandon

 

[PieEyedPiper]

Drop that 700 on the turbochargers deal where you get the Exhaust Manifold/EvoIII 16g/Install kit combo.

 

[v2ner]

You could drop the oilpan...

 

[Denji]

You could drop the oilpan...

Ive never actually done that, ive heard of people having a hard time with it. You think thats a better technique than just cutting open the oil filter?

 

[v2ner]

If you have your old oil filter from before you changed oil then cutting it would be easier. Or washing it out into a closed container.

 

[DGajre777]

I say you have 2 options:
1) Send it to FP and get their Big T28 upgrade and buy the FP 17psi actuator
2) Sell that turbo as a shell for an upgrade and buy the Evo III 16G combo that comes with their GT manifold and install kit.

As for the metal shavings in your oil, you can take oil directly from the filter like on the PTE/50 trim installs. www.dejonpowerhouse.com has a kit you can buy. Also, get a magnetic drain plug for your oil to see if you still get metal shavings in your oil.

 

[Denji]

If you have your old oil filter from before you changed oil then cutting it would be easier. Or washing it out into a closed container.

well i probably drove it for about 100 miles before the turbo went, do you think thats enough time to make an assumption by cutting open the current filter?

 

[Denji]

I say you have 2 options:
1) Send it to FP and get their Big T28 upgrade and buy the 17psi actuator
2) Sell that turbo as a shell for an upgrade and buy the Evo III 16G combo that comes wwith their GT manifold and install kit.

As for the metal shavings in your oil, you can take oil directly from the filter like on the PTE/50 trim installs. www.dejonpowerhouse.com has a kit you can buy.

Also, get a magnetic drain plug for your oil to see if you still get metal shavings in your oil.

its made by turbochargers.com, its not a big28, its a t28 killer. Im stressed and i need to decide soon since i dont have a car for school. Also, i never said for sure i had metal shavings in my oil, i changed it and i didnt notice anything strange, i just fear there might be.

 

[95-talontsi]

Id sell it and buy a 16g.

 

[DGajre777]

its made by turbochargers.com, its not a big28, its a t28 killer. Im stressed and i need to decide soon since i dont have a car for school. Also, i never said for sure i had metal shavings in my oil, i changed it and i didnt notice anything strange, i just fear there might be.

I know it is a T28killer and is different that a Big T28, but I haven't heard anything bad about FP turbos and their quality. If you want more power, for the same cost, get the Turbochargers kit with the MHI Evo III 16G turbo (you'll need to do some porting to prevent boost creep depending on your setup).

If the turbo died because of oil shavings, I can assure you that there are metal shavings in the oil. They might be too small for you to see clearly in the oil, but big enough to damage the turbo.

 

[Denji]

I know it is a T28killer and is different that a Big T28, but I haven't heard anything bad about FP turbos and their quality. If you want more power, for the same cost, get the Turbochargers kit with the MHI Evo III 16G turbo (you'll need to do some porting to prevent boost creep depending on your setup).

If the turbo died because of oil shavings, I can assure you that there are metal shavings in the oil. They might be too small for you to see clearly in the oil, but big enough to damage the turbo.

so basically my motor is toast in some way or another? I asked them the same thing and they said it could have been from the previous owner of the turbo, is this false?

 

[brute]

The shaft play in the turbo could've built up slowly. Once you got it, if it already had some shaftplay, it continually got worse and worse until it finally just slammed the compressor wheel against the housing. You may have nothing to worry about. Your motor may be just fine, and it's just the turbo that failed. If in fact it did die from metal shavings, as Dee pronounced, you'll need to diagnose the problem before ruining a spankin new turbo.

Try to drain your oil and get a magnet. Run it through the oil and see if any shavings get picked up. This is good because you can find ones you couldn't see before. This is also bad, however, because the head is made out of aluminum.

 

[Denji]

It did have a little shaft play and i do beleive it came off of a blown motor, however, I will try to diagnose this further. Is it possible that metal could have entered from the porting of my exhaust manifold, or from the cutting of my intercooler pipes if i didnt clean them out good enough? Or would it have to be internal to cause this?

 

[brute]

It's possible that a piece of metal from your porting hit one or both of the wheels and thrown it out of balance. This could make the wheel(s) hit the housing(s). But in order for it to mess up the bearing, it'd have to be internal.

 

[DGajre777]

I suggest that you pick up a used T25 until you find out what the problem is, if you need your car to run for school.

 

[Denji]

indeed, looking for one. I personally think my motor is okay, but im going to check it just to be sure.