60 trim question

sphinx0nine · 04-27-2006, 10:08 AM

im finishing up my 60 trim setup, most of it is on the car by now. Im about to install the SAFC and boost controller. The setup is as follows: Garret 60 trim turbo, t3 turbonetics manifold, tial external wastegate, 650's, 255 fuel pump, FMIC, hks blow off, 3'' turbo back.
Question is, up to this point is it completelly nessesary to go with the maf and maf-t? or would i able to run the car with just the safc?

Any links to good information about maft are greatly appreciated.

Thanks

RavenX · 04-27-2006, 10:19 AM

No you can still run the afc since you have the 650's. However 650's are not enough for a 60trim turbo and its not recommended to use anything more than 650's on a afc unless of course you get a eeprom chip from Keydiver to compensate for the bigger injectors which is a good idea. The translator is not bad either just search around on the website theres a ton of info.

Burnett03 · 04-27-2006, 12:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by RavenX

No you can still run the afc since you have the 650's. However 650's are not enough for a 60trim turbo and .

how come they worked on my 60-1 at 22psi on pump then?

sphinx0nine · 04-27-2006, 02:52 PM

im just running a little low on money after all this.. so i will probably go with the maf-t in a few months.
And until i get confortable with it (and the gf stops complaining about the car being down) i wont be pushing a lot of boost, thats why a profec b is getting put on as well.
I just needed to know if it was completelly necessary to get the maft to run the car.

Byrd · 04-27-2006, 03:23 PM

I've been hearing alot of problems with the maft's (running rich and so forth). If it was me i'd just spring for dsmlink.

Good choice on the 60-trim, i have one as well

RavenX · 04-27-2006, 03:56 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burnett03

how come they worked on my 60-1 at 22psi on pump then?

Right but what was your injector duty cycle? My point was hes going to need more than 650's to run 23+psi on race gas.

sphinx0nine · 04-27-2006, 04:00 PM

not touching race gas for a while..
im still fairly new to all this..

GVR4592 · 04-27-2006, 05:17 PM

You should look into getting Dsmlink or a chip. The 650's aren't going to cut it if you want to use the turbo to it's full potential. The maft is a waste of money for your setup. The 2g maf can handle the 60 trim just fine, the only reason you would need the maft is if your maxing out the 2g or an Evo maf sensor.

CanadianTSi · 04-27-2006, 05:42 PM

Your setup will be fine, that is until you want to make 450+ to the wheels, then you will probably run out of injector.

GVR4592 · 04-27-2006, 05:48 PM

I ran out of injector around 24 psi, I had FIC 650's.

sphinx0nine · 04-28-2006, 08:31 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by GVR4592

You should look into getting Dsmlink or a chip. The 650's aren't going to cut it if you want to use the turbo to it's full potential. The maft is a waste of money for your setup. The 2g maf can handle the 60 trim just fine, the only reason you would need the maft is if your maxing out the 2g or an Evo maf sensor.

yah, i know that the turbo wont be used to its full potential.
Im planning on having the bottom end done and the link by the end of the summer.
i appreciate all your comments..
its not time to get a intake pipe for this turbo.. any ideas besides the dejon?

GVR4592 · 04-28-2006, 09:47 AM

Fp makes a nice intake, and it's cheap.

Byrd · 04-28-2006, 10:19 AM

I mentioned to you earlier the FP intake pipe, Can't go wrong

. If your using a 2g maf let me know i have a $25 cold air intake how-to that i just did (with pics) that lowered my intake temps by 50+ degrees.

The link is a great decision cause you will knock with the 60 trim on pump gas. For my setup, the turbo, tubular manifold, and wastegate dump put off gobs of heat, creating insane coolant temps and retarding timing. So get ready to knock - but once all these kinks are worked out this turbo just PULLLS

GVR4592 · 04-28-2006, 11:40 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Byrd

I mentioned to you earlier the FP intake pipe, Can't go wrong

. If your using a 2g maf let me know i have a $25 cold air intake how-to that i just did (with pics) that lowered my intake temps by 50+ degrees.

The link is a great decision cause you will knock with the 60 trim on pump gas. For my setup, the turbo, tubular manifold, and wastegate dump put off gobs of heat, creating insane coolant temps and retarding timing. So get ready to knock - but once all these kinks are worked out this turbo just PULLLS

It sounds like you might have a problem with your cooling system.

Byrd · 04-28-2006, 02:25 PM

Haha thanks, i know

dnhieu · 04-28-2006, 02:53 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Byrd

Haha thanks, i know

its okay we are working on that problem all together. btw i started my $25 dollar cold air intake today. ill post some pics later...

also like byrd said go with dsm link. but if you HAVE to i would personally run a chiped ecu and afc....

hope that helps
david

GVR4592 · 04-28-2006, 05:14 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Byrd

Haha thanks, i know

I used to have some issues with mine. I replaced the water pump with a Mitsubish pump (it had a cheap parts store pump on the car), bought a vented hood, low temp thermostat, 20%coolant 80% water, and a fan controller. That solved all of my issues.

dnhieu · 04-28-2006, 05:31 PM

no disrespect but you live in Washington right? we live in the alabama and florida and it gets hotter then hell here. i dont drive my car in the afternoon any more because its damn near 100 degrees and between that and lunch time traffic i can EASILY see coolant temps of 223-226...

but on a side note i keep comming up with little ideas to keep getting it lower and lower. i still have not removed the a/c yet but im probably gonna do that in the next few weekends...

GVR4592 · 04-28-2006, 05:41 PM

I was just pointing out some things that might help with coolant temps. I've driven my car in 100+ heat. It does get that hot here, just not for the whole summer. I haven't driven it in the 100+heat with the cooling mods I've done so only time will tell. Before the cooling mods in 90+ degreee temps, my coolant temps wouldn't go over 205 sitting in traffic. I think the thermostat and the vented hood helped me the most.

dnhieu · 04-28-2006, 05:45 PM

damn thats awesome considering sometimes i drive with 213 coolant temps. if im at idle at night i ushally see about 216 at the most. but while its hot out side in the afternoon i dont car to find out how hot the damn thing will get. if my motor ever gets back from the machine shop i will have a oil cooler and mitsubishi water pump to throw on and hopefully i can say bye bye to my coolant temp problem. but untill then i have to watch them like a hawk...

Burnett03 · 04-28-2006, 05:52 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by dnhieu

damn thats awesome considering sometimes i drive with 213 coolant temps. if im at idle at night i ushally see about 216 at the most. but while its hot out side in the afternoon i dont car to find out how hot the damn thing will get. if my motor ever gets back from the machine shop i will have a oil cooler and mitsubishi water pump to throw on and hopefully i can say bye bye to my coolant temp problem. but untill then i have to watch them like a hawk...

thats to hot on a 1g... ditch the a/c and run two pusher fans on the front of the raditor.. my temps never went pas 203with this setup

dnhieu · 04-28-2006, 07:42 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by Burnett03

thats to hot on a 1g... ditch the a/c and run two pusher fans on the front of the raditor.. my temps never went pas 203with this setup

i already got 2 slim line fans. i also got custom ducting to disrupt the air in front of the a/c condensor. another thing i thought of is that you guys do see 100 degrees but you see it with out humidity. during the summer we are always at 100%. during the winter i wont see past 203 either but its just too damn hot out right now...