can a 16g turbo be swapped with the blown t-25

[Project Draven]

well just yesterday my turbo started to make a whine and grind noise while under boost so i baby it home and outside she sits. A buddy of mine has a bb 16g turbo he said i could have I was going to go over to his house tonight to put it on. My question is can i swap that turbo the way it is. i know i need a new gasket i plan on grabbing that on the way. but can i just bolt it on or am i missing or needing something.

any help would be greatly appreciated
thanks in advance
Brandon

 

[herostar]

you'll need a j-pipe, gaskets, oil and water lines, and crush washers. Might as well do an oil change too while you're down there...

 

[Project Draven]

i was afraid of that i have no money left right now and won't for a least 2 to 3 weeks so i am at a loss

so how much would all this cost estimated

 

[gsxtacy]

Here you go:

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/2G-16G.html

I have a turbo gasket set and all the crush washers, I need a T25 Compressor housing. Cash + trade??

 

[bhop]

Unless i'm mistaken, a 16g should require some fuel system mods as well, and a boost controller and guage if you don't already have them.

 

[tstkl]

Unless i'm mistaken, a 16g should require some fuel system mods as well, and a boost controller and guage if you don't already have them.

you can run a 16g without any of those.

1. if you dont turn up the boost the stock fuel system will work,
2. you dont need a boost controller if you have no intentions of turning up the boost,
3. you dont need a gauge if your not turning up the boost.

 

[underradar92]

One point I'd like to make, you may have to bend the actuator arm to realise stock boost. My new turbo was set way low as delivered.

 

[Project Draven]

can i use the stock lines and fittings on this turbo for now and upgrade it later when i have money (basically asking if i can put the 16g in the t-25 place without an install kit)

 

[gsxtacy]

Ok, the simple answer is NO.

You cannot just bolt the 16G up and hook up the oil/water lines and be good to go.

The real problem in putting a TD05 style turbo into a 2G is the Compressor Outlet Differences (hince the J-pipe) and the Lower Intercooler Pipe is totally different.

You can take the water lines and swap them over to the 16g and tweak them to work but you need to be very careful NOT to *kink either one. Also, a little elbow grease and a 220 grit scrubby will clean up the banjo fittings pretty good. You can also scrubby the copper washers if you absolutely have to RE-use them. The oil drain between the 1gs and 2gs are different also, the 1g has a MHI style drain fitting, the 2g drain has a Garrett fitting. If you have a die grinder and new gaskets you can get away with "slotting" the flange holes to fit the CHRA.

You will also need a oil feedline of some kind. SS/OEM its up to you. When using a OEM style turbo, I personally like the OEM oil feed lines for the "bolt right up" ease of use.

If you read the link I donated you'd already know all this.

BTW YOU Still haven't replied to my PM to you.

Good luck.

 

[aero_sallee]

You can also scrubby the copper washers if you absolutely have to RE-use them.
Good luck.

With the copper washers its better to re-anneal them. Its the softness of the copper that makes it seal well. With use and vibration they work harden. You can use a propane torch or propane kitchen stove. String them over a piece of steel wire and heat them until they glow, now while they are still hot drop them in a glass of cold water. This will soften them, and remove most of the scale that is built up on the surface.

 

[ITSME4G63]

Here you go:

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/2G-16G.html

I have a turbo gasket set and all the crush washers, I need a T25 Compressor housing. Cash + trade??

I say you take this guys offer, looks like hes trying to help you out with gaskets and money.

 

[gsxtacy]

too late!! Bought another Tuners' 60K T25.

 

[superflip506]

bb 16g turbo
Brandon

does the bb stand for ball bearing?

 

[Project Draven]

yes it does

 

[Project Draven]

well i started my car up this afternoon and man did she smoke from under the hood and out the exhaust (not real bad but bad enough) i may have to drive it work the way it is. even though i shouldn't i really don't have a choice. i was wondering if the car will survive about 15 mile round trip to work and back. it still boosts by the way

 

[Project Draven]

some people have been talking to me and they say that if i put that turbo on my car (16g)then chances are it will blow the engine because of the lack of mods needed for the turbo. i tried telling them that if i leave the boost at stock then it should be fine and if i would turn it up i wouldn't go past 16 psi because the fuel system won't take past that. does this sound about right or will i be looking into a rebuild. (Honestly i am thinking of just either rebuilding my t-25 or just getting another.) I was also thinking of getting a t28 but i figured $125 for a ball bearing 16 g turbo from SBR was a pretty sweet deal. any more insights would be appreciated

 

[Project Draven]

well my friend can't give me his bb 16 g because his blew and he installed that one so now i am back to square one. i need to find another t-25 and put this behind me i already removed my old turbo today. i called around and it seems noone has a t-25 no yards, friends neither. i don't know what to do

 

[scottsee]

Wow, ok. There has been some really good advice in this thread given to you. You do NOT want to spend the $ on another t-25. You can buy a t-28 if you like, Its compresser inducer & exducer size is about 99% the size of the Small 16g, just slightly smaller. The Exhasut side of the turbo has a significantly smaller Inducer and Exducer size then the TDO5H housing that comes standerd on the 14b, small @ large 16..

Your best budget turbo would be the TDO5H 14b, If you look hard enough you can find them for roughly $60-$150 in the classified section or on EBAY. The 14b has a very good compressor map with decent effencey ratings and will produce decent g/rev aiflow #'s.
It's a great turbo for the 2g's becasue it works wonderfully with nothing but a rewired fuel pump with stock 440cc injectors. Suppliing the steddy 13.2-14 volts which will bump its fuel flow rates up into 150ltr/hr range at 43.5 base fuel pressure. As FPR applys' boost refrences you can easyly squeese 24lb/min airflow through the turbo at 80% IDC on the factory timing and fuel enrichment maps..

If you eventually get a way to tune your WOT open loop A/F ratios above 2.1g/rev you will be able to stop the fuel enrichments from going as high as 9.5:1 and can shoot for the fastest flame speed of 11.1:1 wich will supply you with 33lb/min at exactly 100% IDC(highly unatainable for most people). That is of course using pump gas with gravity weight of .76..

RRE has a "garrage sale" going on right now on their Turbo Gaskets... $10 a pair... CHEAP!!! BUY THEM...

Everyone covered everything else. PM if you have any questions.

 

[Project Draven]

ok i went and bought a 14 b turbo off of ebay i went and bought the gaskets today too and i am about done with the install except that the oil return line won't fit it has about a 1/2 inch gap between the lower part of the line and the block i also got a return line wit the turbo but its the same way can anyone please help me out i wanan get this turbo done tonight someone please help a fellow dsmer out

thanks in advance
brandon

 

[daren_p]

I don't really understand your question, you said you have a 1/2" gap between the lower part of the line & the block? The oil return line doesn't bolt up to the block it bolts to the oil pan. If the return line that came with the turbo was off a 1g then it will be a direct bolt on. You can use your 2g return line as well juts have to file out the holes on the flange that attaches to the turbo as the mitsu housing has further apart bolt spacing compared to the garrett t-25, use the new gasket as a template for how big to make the holes.

 

[Project Draven]

i believe the person i got it off of said this turbo came off a galant vr4 sorry about the mistake where the return line bolts to. i don't really understand what you mean with the return line can you explain it further for me this is my first swap so i am learning more as i go

 

[daren_p]

I believe the vr4 should have the same return line as the 1g so this should be a direct bolt on for you. If you want to use your 2g oil return line, you can but you have to modify it abit. The thing that you will need to change to get the 2g line to bolt to the 14b is the bolt spacing (just at the turbo end, as obviously the end that attaches to the oil pan is already the correct size). The turbo that came on your 2g was a t25, its a garrett turbo so the bolt spacing for the oil return line is different from 14b, which is a mitsu turbo. You will also need different size bolts to connect the return line to the turbo as once again the mitsu is slightly different from garrett. You said you had replacement gaskets? You should have one for the 2g oil pan and the other one should be for a 14b or a 1g. Hold the new gasket up to the return flange on the turbo and make sure it lines up with the bolt holes. If so use this gasket as a template and mark on the top of the oil return where to enlarge the holes to. Once its marked file out the holes and you should be able to bolt it up to the turbo.

I imagine you are trying to use the return line that came with the turbo? Maybe the vr4 (or whatever it came off of) uses a different oil return line that wont fit your car correctly. Compare it to the 2g return line that you took off, they should be the same size physically. If their not then you will have to mod the 2g return line, the way I described above. If you look at www.vfaq.com they have several 16g series install instructions which might help you out.

Your return line should look like the one in the top of the pick. The end that needs to be modified is the one thats on the right side of the pic, its on the longer end.

 

[Project Draven]

well i got the turbo on and everything seemed ok till i took it for a ride and it feels like it has no power till the high rpms where it feels like it is building boost real slowly and when i am in third gear i feel this bucking type jerk when it starts to reach higner rpms and when i brought it home it was missing badly and didn't wanna stay running most of the time its idleing very low could anyone tell me what possibly could be wrong

any help would be appreciated
thanks in advance
brandon

 

[Project Draven]

could this be caused by a loose o2 sensor it appears my good buddy who was helping me didn't tighten the o2 sensor on the o2 housing it looks like he just screwed it in a little bit and forgot about it and also the back right turbo to manifold bolt was broken on my t-25 and now there isn't one there (just 2 bolts and the stud holding it on)

 

[sYnOnYx]

man oh man.

with the current problem , im going to say your hitting fuel cut beacuse you have a boost leak, check your pipes to make sure they are all tight .... and go make a boost leak tester.... vfaq.com has the instructions. about $5 at home depot to make.