someone help me with these switches on the translator??????!!!!!

[gsxstac]

i have the translator and when i put it in the cra ran like shit. so heres the deal. i have a safc2 which i'm gonna keep so ic an fine tune. i have a 3" maf that i put after the blov so i can do the blow through setup. i have a 95 tsi awd with a 20g, 660's huge fmic, the whole nine yeards and shit. i need my fuel settings around -30 for hight and low throttle. i dont understand these directions, i followed everything they said and it still didnt work right. i'd appreciate anyone helping me out. thanks

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Zero out the AFC and all the knobs on the MAFT. Set your base to 600cc injectors and you should be fine.

Mike

 

[gsxstac]

i shouldnt go to 650cc??? thast closer to 660cc which is what i have, what u mean by o out all the knobs? i thought i need to compensate the for fuel or whatever?

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

I tried setting my car to 650's and the car ran so bad around town, I couldn't get out of my own way. Car was basically choking on it's own timing advance. Those base settings aren't exact, they are merely a starting point for dialing in the car.

I have a Supra TT pump, Denso 660's, and an AFPR set to 45psi base (which is gonna be slightly lower than your Walbro 255/stock FPR setup). I set the base to 600cc, put all the dials (idle, mid, max/WOT) all at 0, and it's actually pretty close. My low fuel trims still sit at 118% (dead lean, even at 5%), but the mid and WOT levels are pretty close. The WOT adjustment still seems to be a little rich, since my timing falls off pretty good once I hit about 5.5-6k. I"ll get everything dialed in much better hopefully Wednesday when I go to the track.

As for now, just try the 600cc base setting, put all the knobs at 0, and zero out your AFC. Car should run MUCH better.

Mike

 

[gsxstac]

so ur sayin leave the knobs at 0 and put my safc at 0??? then my car wll run rich wont it???? i'll try this anyway prob before i'm back online. what sux is that my car is way slower with this thing installed,. but i guess i gotta just tune it. i wish they didnt make it tuneable. all i want is the maf to be after the bov so i have no restriction on my turbo and so i can vent without a problem. i just wanna keep my safc

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

The car will be real close to where it should be. Those base settings are APPROXIMATIONS. They aren't set in stone. Set them where I told you, then verify everything with a datalogger. The base setting gets you close, use the AFC to fine tune.

 

[gsxstac]

yea but havin all the knobs on the translator at 0 means there is no fuel compensation. i understand they arent set in stone, but if i have the knobs nd the safc at 0 then i'm not taking any fuel out right? i just dont understand y i put the knobs at 0. i'm gonna try it today.

 

[44pirate]

First set you SAFC LO and HI settings at 0 across the board.
On the Translator have all the dip switches off.
Have your base set at 6.
From here, if you have a Pocketlogger Look at your STFT and LTFT.
Adjust your LO SAFC settings as you normally would up to 4500 rpm.
Now for the Mid setting on the Translator, you need to drive the car in 2nd or 3rd and watch your STFT, when you give it 60% throttle you want to have the STFT close to 0. Click the Mid knob either one counterclockwise or one click clockwise and see what your STFT do. If they go more positive then Click the mid knob back and try again.

 

[BoostinAWD]

Thats funny cause I have 550's and have mine set for 600cc's, it leaned it out a little then eventually went to 81 on all of them again.

Setting it to 550's was a joke, car wouldnt move.
My base fuel pressure is at 35psi now. Still rich.
Maybe I should try a 750cc setting

 

[gsxstac]

YEA I DONT HAVE A POCKETLOGGER YET, I'M TRYING TO GET ONE RIGHT NOW

 

[Lurker]

I found that if you have upgraded injectors as well as upgraded fuel pump, you will need to set your MAFT leaner ( i.e. as if you have a bigger injector than what you have ).

I have 660cc injectors and Denso 190lph fuel pump ( not rewired, so that I won't overrun the stock fpr ). My MAFT is set to two clicks leaner than 660cc. With that setting, all three of my fuel trims are around 100.

 

[NOSLO2PT0]

Originally posted by Lurker
I found that if you have upgraded injectors as well as upgraded fuel pump, you will need to set your MAFT leaner ( i.e. as if you have a bigger injector than what you have ).

I have 660cc injectors and Denso 190lph fuel pump ( not rewired, so that I won't overrun the stock fpr ). My MAFT is set to two clicks leaner than 660cc. With that setting, all three of my fuel trims are around 100.

It would probably help a lot more if you told us WHICH knobs you set "2 clicks leaner." You set the base or the idle 2 clicks leaner?

 

[Mike Licht]

Just remember guys first all cars are different, what works on one will not work on another. Most problems come form guys with used sensors and AFC's. Best method to get the car dialed in I have found is to zero the AFC. reset the computer, get the fuel pressure close to stock, set the base 1 click rich for your injector size to start (you may have to move it one way or the other later) Go drive the car at 40 to 60 MPH steady and watch the high trim adjust the WOT control to get it close (+ or - 10 is not worth the time). Let it idle, use the idle control to get the idle trim close. Finsih with the AFC
Don't worry about the number if it takes -40% to get it right so be it.
The mid control does NOT move the mid trim it works just over idle
the O2 trim is JUST as important as the fuel trims it will tell you just as much
CALL if you need help
Mike Licht

 

[Lurker]

I meant the base knob.
I'm planning to get an AFPR next, so I can get my base fuel pressure to stock setting.

Originally posted by NOSLO2PT0


It would probably help a lot more if you told us WHICH knobs you set "2 clicks leaner." You set the base or the idle 2 clicks leaner?

 

[gsxstac]

i tried settin all the knobs to 0 and then settin the safc to 0 and goin from there but the car still feels slower then before. i just ran my car and i've added about 45hp worth of parts (hks 272/272 cams, 1g head, tb, intake, crower springs/retainers, 20g, bigger fmic) since i last ran myc ar with a 19c turbo. i ran 12.7 with the 19c with completely stock head, now i have all the 1g head and intake stuff with hks cams and i only ran 12.8. my trap speeds are horrible also. i think i need to change my base timing. can i set my base timing with the 1g cas with a datalogger?? i just ordered the datalogger from digital tuning and it will be in end of the week. can i use that?

 

[Mike Licht]

Once you get your logger call me and we will get it tuned up
Mike Licht
Full Throttle Speed & Style
586 790 4406

 

[bjgarvin]

Mike, you have the patience of a saint. i don't know how you do it.

on a tech note, have you noticed that while the base should be set for the appropriate size injectors, the idle knob must be richened up significantly to compensate? has this been corrected or addressed with the new 1.3 chip? version 1.2 is in the car, 1.3 is going in soon. just wondering what to expect with the new chip.

the plan is to tune from scratch with the new chip regardless, but anything that speeds up the process is welcomed.

Ben

 

[Lurker]

Interesting, I also see that I need to richen the idle significantly to get my low fuel trim to be inline with the other trims.