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nhsean69

20+ Year Contributor
165
0
Feb 25, 2003
Nashua, New Hampshire
Ok so ive got Greddy type-S, Greddy Upper and Lower IC pipes, Injen Intake, Blitz Street Spec Boost Controller, MSD 8.5's, Autometer -30-0-30 Boost/Vac gauge, Pocketlogger, 1995 Eclipse GST Auto

And i know i didnt need to get this yet, but Austin (candela) gave me a good deal on it =0) (shipped it blazing fast too) So no "why do you have this" responces.

Im pretty much looking for what i should have this set somewhere around. Ive never dealt with anything like this before so i want a starting point so i dont blow something up =0).

Thanks
Sean
 
First off leave it disconnected till you understand it. Then when you hook it up make damn sure you understand it before changing any settings from zero. I totally understand the AFC and still am fine tuning it after a month of tuning.
 
Gee thanks for your help....i have a few choice words for you, but i value my account here so you can fill in your own derogatory remarks!!! Peace!! Maybe some non Ignorant person can help me
 
He is just trying to help you to not blow up your car. In the AFC instruction manual I cant even count how many times it says:

"Do not attempt tunng of the super AFC without extensive knowledge of the engine specifications. Improper tuning may lead to engine failure and vehicle damage. Tuning should only be performed by an experienced proffessional. Improper tuning WILL damage the engine."
 
OK so if i just leave it at 0 correction and run it i will be fine? Ill let the dyno place tune it. But if you read my first post i think i pretty well said i dont need this yet, but i want a STARTING point of how it works so i can try to understand it. Even a link to a site with instrucitons something like "SAFC for Dummies" or something =0)
 
Ive got it custom mounted in my Armrest tray, so i cant see it, i didnt buy it to look at. I bought it for my car as i buy all my other stuff, For the car, not for me to look at or others to go OOOOOOOOOOO look at that. But i will keep that Monitor in mind when i get a really cool ricer who wants to check out my ride!!!!
 
Calm Down. He's right, you sure should not touch it unless you understand how it works.

However, that's why we're all here, right? If you do a search for "SAFC" here or on any other forum, you should be able to find plenty of information.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=27480&highlight=safc+operation

Also, I have written up a tuning guide on some basic use of the SAFC:

http://home.attbi.com/~tarryo/kyle/tuning.html

It's not perfect by any means, but it sure helps.


....Kyle T.
 
Yah i know i shouldnt touch it unless i know......Hence why i posted it in here, Looking for help. Thank you for that tuning guide, ill check that out. And the other page.


Sean
 
I need to geet something clarified?? In that write up Kyle did, It says to tune so STFT and the LTFT = 100% or damn near close.....so say at 1000 RPM, my STFT reads -2% and my LTFT reads +2% Is that considered 100% or do i have to add % till it equals 100% like STFT = 50% and LTFT = 50%.

It just seems like a lot of tuning, i wanna make sure before i take a whirl at it.


thanks
Sean
 
IF i'm reading that correctly and his feul trims equal zero then he would need to add about 15-20% on the afc at 1k. I know that can't be right. It says for every 3-5% on the logger you need 1% on the afc. I must be missing something. Can someone help on this.
 
You want it so that, when holding the throttle steady and keeping the motor in a certain rpm range, the average of the LTFT and the STFT is 100%. Thus, 102% and 98% is fine.

If the fuel trim equaled zero, then why would you need to add any fuel at all? For a 2g, zero is perfect, right where you want it to be.

For a 1g, perfect fuel trims are 100%, but the principle is the same.


....Kyle T.
 
Ahhhhhh Haaaa..........Thank you very much, I am so unconfused now!!!!
 
Make sure that the dyno place you told us about uses an acurate wide band O2. Investing in a couple of gauges should help them as well as yourself (EGT gauge and maybe an air/fuel gauge). Save yourself the money and DO NOT buy the Autometer "pyrometer", I made that mistake and the car was much more difficult to keep tuned. In my opinion the best EGT gauegs are the ones with warning and memory features although they are more expensive. I myself have the Greddy EGT and the probe reacts much faster than the Autometer probe. Anyway, the point is that a good EGT will help you set up the "High" throttle settings and an Air/Fuel will help tune down low.
 
Thanks, I have a Air/Fuel on the way will be here tomorrow. Ive been loking at EGT's too, but like you said they can get expensive, and i have also hear the Autometer gauges sucks.
 
An air/fuel gauge is about a millimeter away from being useless in terms of tuning.

An EGT gauge is better, but it's still close to useless, under normal circumstances, considering the other options.

The logger is the way to go. You have one, I wouldn't worry so much about buying more gauges.


....Kyle T.
 
i got it for a big bad $40 out of the classifieds so its not like its making me broke. But i do use my logger alot ive noticed, more then anything else.
 
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