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ECMlink Why bad tune? Because Front O2 Bad?

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KFred 513

Proven Member
146
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Oct 11, 2012
SUllivan, New York
After a little Meme humor for the title ill get to the facts :thumb:. To start, I bought my GSX the way it is and only had one month with it before i left for the military. When I get back to it in a month, the wrenching will commence, but for now im forced to rely on one data log, and a buddy back home checking up on things for me.

I know my tune is garbage:ohdamn: and after learning a lot on here and other sources I know how to start almost fresh and get it where it needs to be. Im not logging my UEGO because i dont have the ECU pin set for it, rookie mistake. The tune was already set up so i didnt really change anything on the car before I left.

My concern now is my front O2. It does not cycle .20-.80 volts like it should, not even close most of the time. Im hoping its just a bad sensor. From what I understand, the bad O2 readings can probably be blamed for my whacked out FT readings.

My WB guage shows my AFR to be where I want it throughout the rpm/load range judging by sight. I know it would help a lot if it were in the log but I cant change that for about a month.

Any advice on the FrontO2 condition, or the rest of my tune(maybe we should call it ecu settings, and not a tune LOL) is appreciated.

Thanks in advance guys


The forum is saying my log exceeds the allowable size by almost double. How do I get around this to post my log?
 
The forum is saying my log exceeds the allowable size by almost double. How do I get around this to post my log?

Try clipping the datalog. Highlight a section of the log, right-click, hover over Selection, and hit Clip to Section. Then File>Save As. If you just hit Save you'll overwrite the original log.
 
Wes, your the man, I just updated my profile too. I noticed you were on my page, so you can look again for my mod list if its of any help.
 

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I don't see where the o2 sensor is malfunctioning.

Also, are you pushing 26 lbs & not logging an AFR? What Is Life?

From the logs I've seen with a properly working 02, the voltage goes from .2-.8V like the flip of a switch. Mine is more of a slope, rather than the voltage switching from one to another with no other voltages in between.

And as far as the AFR, yes. Maybe I didn't explain it clearly enough, but the PO built the car and tuned the car. I haven't changed anything except some nonessential settings that wouldn't affect AFR/timing/ etc. I am confident that he was logging the wideband for tuning purposes, but I have just not set the ecu pin to log it on my lap top.
 
From the logs I've seen with a properly working 02, the voltage goes from .2-.8V like the flip of a switch. Mine is more of a slope, rather than the voltage switching from one to another with no other voltages in between.

You're probably referring to a narrowband simulated signal. Your o2 (analog) signal looks perfectly fine...

Maybe I didn't explain it clearly enough, but the PO built the car and tuned the car.

I would hardly call that a tune...it's a sloppy tune at best. I love how the DA openloop table is lean (assuming pump gas) and shit loads of fuel is being added through the sliders. Do yourself a favor and don't even attempt WOT tuning until you log your wideband. Stick to idle and cruise tuning for now and logging your wideband should be your top priority.

For starters, your combinedft is high and airflowperrev is low at idle.
 
You're probably refering to a narrowband simulated signal. Your o2 (analog) signal looks perfectly fine...



I would hardly call that a tune...I love how the DA openloop table is lean and shit loads of fuel is being added through the sliders. Do yourself a favor and don't even attempt WOT tuning until you log your wideband. Stick to idle and cruise tuning for now and logging your wideband should be your top priority.

For starters, your combft is high and airflowperrev is low at idle.


ok you nailed it, I was most definitely comparing mine to simulated NBo2 logs.

And yes, I even said Its not much of a tune, but rather ecu settings unfortunately. And again, im going to go back to the beginning and start with adjusting my TPS because i have it adjusted more than I would like through link. Logging the WB is a top priority already, so it will be the first thing I do when I get home and plug in the laptop.

im kind of dissappointed because I know the guy did his research, and is good at troubleshooting. He definitely spent the money on the mechanical end, and the time putting everything together. I figured he would have spent the time to get the tune perfect, or the money for a real tune. He ran a best of 12.4 and I feel like this setup is capable of more. I guess the "tune" may be the reason for its lack of reaching full potential.


Yeah the more i look into this, the more I realize that most of it doesnt make sense. the fuel and timing sliders are moved, which if tuned right, shouldnt be touched. Its just a little frustrating, but hopefully a few hours in the car should get me on the right track. The fuel sliders add 24% at some spots...makes no sense

would it be beneficial for me to download the evo8 fuel table from ecmtuning and start from there rather than my current table? The sliders are adjusted so far that i feel the maxoct table cells were never touched!
 
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would it be beneficial for me to download the evo8 fuel table from ecmtuning and start from there rather than my current table?

I would zero out the sliders and apply a default fuel map, whether it's a 1g, 2g or evo8 map doesn't really make a difference to me, they're all rich at WOT. Log an initial pull, track your path in DA to find what data cells you're operating on at WOT, and set your target afr (11.0 is a good afr for pump gas). Like I said earlier though, I wouldn't do any WOT tuning until you log your wideband.

The sliders are adjusted so far that i feel the maxoct table cells were never touched!

Well they were at some point. 11.6 is definitely not default.
 
I would zero out the sliders and apply a default fuel map, whether it's a 1g, 2g or evo8 map doesn't really make a difference to me, they're all rich at WOT. Log an initial pull, track your path in DA to find what data cells you're operating on at WOT, and set your target afr (11.0 is a good afr for pump gas). Like I said earlier though, I wouldn't do any WOT tuning until you log your wideband.



Well they were at some point. 11.6 is definitely not default.


ok thanks for the advice. Logging the wideband is #1 priority for sure. I know its just a matter of assigning the right ecu pin. My rookie mistake was overlooking that back in october.

Im going to use the evo8 mod1 fuel table to start. I'm wondering what ill have to do with my VE table. I just want to make sure I have it straight in my head. The ecu will use the maxOCT table as a target, and my current VE table will be used to get my actual AFR closer to the Target. With that being said, my Current VE table will cause my AFR to be all over the place, right?

For idle/ cruise logs the SD VE adjust should make necessary changes automatically, and the rest will be WOT tuning. <- is that correct for the most part?
 
Im going to use the evo8 mod1 fuel table to start. I'm wondering what ill have to do with my VE table. I just want to make sure I have it straight in my head. The ecu will use the maxOCT table as a target, and my current VE table will be used to get my actual AFR closer to the Target. With that being said, my Current VE table will cause my AFR to be all over the place, right?

For idle/ cruise logs the SD VE adjust should make necessary changes automatically, and the rest will be WOT tuning. <- is that correct for the most part?

Yup, that pretty much sums it up. I'd start with a fresh VE table and modify accordingly, starting with idle. Just be careful that the VE adjust tool doesn't overwrite your idle changes. You can grab a new VE table from v3configs (bottom of the page, 2G v3.19.40. Just open it up in link and copy the table over).

ok thanks for the advice.
No problem :thumb:
 
awesome, I was going to ask where I could find a new VE table. Ive been reading through a tech article off and on for a while and going through my logs to find the things that are all jacked up. I guess the fresh start will be easier than spending hours trying to put humpty back together :rolleyes:

Is it also possible that my timing table could cause the car to run choppy at lower speeds (and rpm)? When driving around a parking lot the car is jerky and the power isn't smooth. I was previously attributing that to the 8lb flywheel, cams, and Q45 TB. I'm sure those mods don't help the case, but I think a timing table with more blending will serve me right
 
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