General HKS Super AFR tuning with FIC 750CCs

[SOURCE1064]

Hey everyone I just wanted a little feedback. I'm hopefully going to have my car back soon and it's heavily modded. I went from replacing things that were stolen to a full rebuild. So far I have a new HKS Super AFR as my fuel tuning computer and I'm going to be running Clinic 750cc injectors. I know without a stand alone I won't get the optimal power out of my car but I wanted to know how tunable people think it will be. At this stage I don't want to spend much more money because I already dropped over 26G's replacing almost everything and I already cut my center console to fit the computer. Also what would everyone suggest when it comes time for me to use a stand alone? I heard AEM is good but they have problems with autos right now. Thanks in advance.

Short mod list:

J&E Forged Pistons 9.0:1 compression, .020" oversized
Eagle Forged Connecting Rods
Nitrite Coated Stainless Steel Valves 1.0mm oversized
Crower Titanium Valve Springs With Retainers
Balance Shaft Eliminator Kit
HKS Cams 272 degree intake and 272 degree exhaust cam
Concept Racing 4G63 Solid Lash Adjusters
Slowboy Racing G60-1 with a 4" TO4ER compressor housing, ported & adjustable Internal wastegate with a 38 mm flapper
Nitrous Express 75 hp shot kit

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[DSMJim]

as you probablly already know tuning with the afr is a big pain, however as you know the little nob on the left is for adjustment of idle only which is pretty cool. I was working on a civic with 310cc (stock 230) which is like 660'cc on a talon in comparison and idle correction was onlyh -5% out of a possible -50% if I remember correctly. THe idle correction of the AFR really seams to be strong so I would think you should be able to get a nice smooth idle with the AFR and 750cc even though you can't with the afc. I have had better luck in the idle dept with the AFR vs. afc, and wide open you have a big enough turbo to suck up that extra fuel the afc wont compensate for on the top end.

Your right you will not get the full potential from your car, but it will be really fast regardless.

On standalone, I really love the TEC-2. If you can find one used just the unit only even and buy the crank trigger for your car new from TEC it is a great system. Once you learn to use it or have somebody else set it up and work from there you will be able to tune it on your own no problems with a lap top. It's really good and easy to use. TEC3 if your feeling rich is much better but a lot more money. Used TEC2 should come in around $1000 with everything. It's a full ignition which is awesome as well making it better than the AEM in my opinion. TEC2 is an 8 wire installiation too, which is nice. Of of our shop sponsored race cars is running an FJO stand alone now and it really looks cool though we have yet to hit the dyno with it. He had a TEC 2 on his car before and made 450whp (in a miata no less) so we will have to see what better we can do with the FJO setup.

THe AEM computer plugs right in but is more of a pain in the ass to tune. They did things a little differently than before so people who are really used to Haltec or TEC etc really don't like the AEM comptuer. You can get good results from the AEM though but be prepared to spend some time on the dyno before you get it how you want, much more time than a TEC or Haltech. If you have someone experienced in AEM tuning in your area or you can do it your laughing.

Some may dissagree on the AEM thing being a pain, that's ok, its just a pain to me because I'm used to something different that's all.

 

[SOURCE1064]

Thanks for the input Jim.