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Tuning & Engine Management 4G63 EPROMS, ECU, MAF, knock, EGT, wideband, datalogging, fuel trims, etc. Read this Forum's Strict Guidelines.

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Old 10-30-2009, 07:29 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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From: Albuquerque, New Mexico
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Can't findver. info on best way to use LC-1

I just picked up a LC-1 for free from my friend. Going to be logging with laptop or my cell with mmsd or whatever. I read that the Sensor doesn't have much of a long life on it. So I was thinking and wondering if it would be best to install a perm. mount on the downpipe and then when I'm not logging/tuning, to take the sensor off and plug the hole? To save the sensor's life.

Would that be good? Or should it be perm. wired into the car? And if so, Can it replace the stock O2 Sensor? And if so, how should I wire it in? I have the Serial to USB cable to connect the sensor to a laptop but if it should be perm mounted into the car, can it provide the ECU info instead of running the stock O2?

I'm new to this and I wanted to ask the pro's instead of some idiots I live near that will just give me stupid info.


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Old 10-30-2009, 11:13 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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From: las vegas, Nevada
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i personally an not to familiar with the sensor and its life span but to answer most of your questions, YES.

YES, you can install a permanent sensor bung and remove/plug the hole when you are not using the WB.

YES, you can permanently mount the controller in your car if you so chose to, but if you are thinking of making the sensor removable then you at least want to wire in a switch to turn off the wide band controller when the sensor is not hooked into it.

and Finlay

YES, it is possible to use the wide band in place of the factory o2 sensor, but keep this in mind. if you do placement plays a big role in the life span of the sensor, most WB manufactures recommend putting the sensor about 18" from the turbo. also you will need to wire the wide band to the factory ecu somehow, the LC-1 has a couple of user definable outputs (most do) that can be programed to simulate a factory o2 sensor. but lets say for example you want to make this removable then that means you would be switching back and forth from wide band to the narrow band, if you don't have the wide band programed 100% to match your factory sensor then when you switch over to factory your tune will be off.

i have a TechEdge WB unit and i try to keep it somewhat removable especially now that i have two cars that i might be playing with. as long as my wife doesn't find out about it.
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Old 10-31-2009, 10:53 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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Yeah the LC-1 has two different outputs for analog. However my main concern is life span. I can't afford replacing WBO2's.

So you think I should just weld in a bung, leave the stock 02 in, and tune the ECU that way and then when I'm not using it for tuning or logging, pull it and plug the hole... That way the sensor is only being used for tuning and not daily driving.


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Old 11-03-2009, 03:24 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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The o2 sensors come as standard equipment on some hondas so they will last as long as a normal O2 sensor. Many people run them all the time and have 10's of thousands of miles on them. You won't have $60 extra 10-80k miles from now? The sensors will die from being run without the WB controller being on.

It's worth it to me to make sure nothing stupid is going on with the AFR's while daily driving. I'm also constantly tuning for mileage and driveability.

If you want to cap it off, the thread is the same as an 18mm spark plug, forgot what the pitch is.


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Old 11-03-2009, 03:32 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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The only way you'll potentially shorten the sensors lifespan is if you run it up front without a heat displacer like Innovate suggests using if you do that. You would need to have it in simulate mode and hooked to the ECU to run properly though.
Right after the bend on the DP is usually good to weld the bung. I have mine in front of my CAT. Keeping the sensor in the exhaust flow without it on will damage it. Make sure you do the free air cycle before you start it in the car. Unless you got the manual and all then you are good to go

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Old 11-03-2009, 03:38 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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I have had my LC-1 in for over a year and have no problems. It's installed in my downpipe with no heat shield and is only pulled to free air calibrate. Now, I only drive my car less than 5,000 miles per year, but the sensor still reads great.


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