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V3 installed, BW S258 tuning inside!

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T9S1i

15+ Year Contributor
1,869
9
Dec 16, 2004
San Francisco, California
Ok, so I finally got DSMLink/ECMTuning V3 sent out to me and took the car out of winter hibernation.

Ive been getting airflow and fuel trims dialed in, and in the mean time ive been experimenting with different stock maps to see which ones feel good and dont knock.

Mods in profile are pretty accurate. Boost was set at 20-21 psi and bone stock 2g maps were used for WOT logs.




Ok, did some tuning just now.

First off ive got a log of cold start up and idle.

I adjusted deadtime to 405 or so, then it started idling crappy. I checked the wiki, and brought it down to 315 where it says to go, then back up to 330 where the chip was programed at. I was looking at differences in the STFT and seeing when it was adjusting more/less (not sure if that was what i was supposed to be looking at.
So after the car warmed up I went ahead and went with Thomas Dorris' advice and put deadtime to 405. I was cruising and did a pull and got some knock (1g map) then my laptop went into sleep mode because its running on the battery and i lost that log.

Next log is after i put in the 2g maps. I did a wot pull through 2nd and 3rd. Tell me what you think. I think its respectable airflow and all for 20-21psi.
Could definitely use some more fine tuning for more power, the a/f ratio is WAY rich, but im only on 91 octane cali piss gas.

Last log is me driving home from the tuning spot.
What should i do with the fuel trims? How do they look?
When i got home and parked, I did CombineFT, I used template, then smoothed it back down after the info it gave me. I guess i havent got over 500hz thats why it flatlines there. After that I reset fuel trims and came inside the house to review everything. I'll get some more cruising logs maybe sunday night or monday.



Ive been having problems with my clutch switch. I log clutchsw and press the clutch, lift it up with my foot (it doesnt move much as the pedal assembly is welded), but it wont go from 0 to 1 and i cant activate NLTS as it is seeing that the clutch is depressed (i guess). Maybe i should check the wiring as maybe i broke it or something at some point... is there anything new to do to set things up to be able to use the clutch wire with v3?

Id like to do some WOT tuning, but obviously i should get the basics dialed in first, so tell me where you guys think i should go from here.

My plans for after i get the basics dialed in are to run the car strictly on 100 octane and crank up the boost! :sneaky::hellyeah:

Thanks for any and all help. I also have a thread going on the Link forums, but i know not everyone who is good at tuning is on the forums so i'd like to post up here to allow all to view the logs and add some input.
 

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I just looked at the second log, '2nd,3rd,4pull'. I noticed timing flatlines at around 5800rpm, AF gets very rich around that point, and there's no knock above that rpm. Is the A/F ratio an accurate reading from your wideband? Or is it an estimate? I'd lean it out a little, try 10.3 at 5500rpm and up. Don't make big changes, just a little at a time, then do a few more pulls to make sure everything is good. I'd also add timing at 6k rpm and up. Timing should go up a little as the rpm goes up. Start conservative with 1 degree for every 1k rpm, like 6k rpm=17*, 7k rpm= 18*. Check for knock, adjust as necessary.

edit: you're pulling a nice ammount of airflow at 21psi, how does it feel?
 
car feels great.

I also wanted to up the timing by 1* every 500 rpm, and lean out the a/f ratio.
You know, dsmlink reads 10.2:1 but i bet its in the 9's somewhere. You see how it flatlines? I think thats as low as it reads. If you right click in the log, and hit ECU direct access itll show the maps that its running, you can track the load factor and see what load you are at at what time and all. It seems like the car is running dead on the 2g maps, meaning where timing flatlines, i think actual a/f ratio is about 9.6/1

Now i dont know if i should just pull fuel and add timing the old fashioned way, or go in the actual map and adjust there.
I guess since i can adjust the map, i should eh?


If we hit up SAC test n tune this weekend were going to have some fun Dave!
 
One other thing i was thinking of if timing is conservative, and a/f is conservative... just crank up the boost! haha jk

I guess i should dial in this boost level, then raise a psi or two then adjust according and repeat eh?
 
DSMLink interopolates the needed fuel from your airflow though the engine so you should set the boost where you want then tune afrs and timing accordingly. AFRs shouldn't change much from the increase in boost pressure so tweaking it should be a matter of small incremental moving of the fuel sliders around.
 
yup, fuel pressure will rise with boost so as long as i have the a/f ratio dialed in at 15 or 20 psi, as i turn the boost up the a/f ratio should stay the same and i'll really only have to pull/add timing to make power or avoid knock.
 
I think you might get some misfiring if you try to keep the A/F ratio so rich while turning up the boost.
Since you're getting a little knock around 5500rpm, leave the fuel rich at that point and remove fuel and add timing at 6k and higher. Just a slight change at 6k, then a greater change at higher rpm.

I'm looking forward to the drive out to Sac, it's actually a Grudge Fest so the turn out should be good. I'm bringing my eprom notes, maybe I can add some goodies to your chip along the way.
 
sounds good. I think its test n tune in the morning (12-4) and then grudge fest after (6-10). I dont know if you have to pay for both, or if you get into test n tune then you are in for grudgefest too or what. I dont know if i can beat the car for 8 hours of the day though haha!
 
OK, couple more logs here.

Fuel trims look pretty dialed to me. Here is a log of some cruise and idle. Let me know if i should change/adjust anything. (log #2)
**Edit** log file is too long, so disregard this... you can just look at crusing in log #8

I went ahead and leaned things out a little bit in the direct acces map. I was a little intimidated to play with the timing direct access, so i added a few degrees up top the old fashoned way and made it a max of 19*.

Here is a log of those changes with a 2nd and 3rd gear pull. (Log # 4)

Next i went ahead and did a flat out 3rd gear pull. Things look a little leaner, but knock is non existent. I had a problem when i went WOT at about 2500 rpm i had a sputter/misfire issue, i looked at my wideband readout and it said RICH so i let off then got back on the throttle and did the full pull. (Log # 5)

Last log is me driving home from the spot. (Log #8)

After i adjust things with the combinedFT, am i supposed to reset fuel trims before i log them again? I didnt have interntet access so i forgot to read the tutorial for using the combinedFT wizard before i played with it.


So where should i go from here? I think i could smooth the a/f ratio out a bit, id like to get it smooth at maybe 10.6-10.8 (pretty much where its at) and if i still have no knock should i up the timing, or up the boost?

Any advice on a/f ratio transmissions from rolling on the throttle, or should i just concentrate on tuning above 5000rpm (where i would ideally launch at and shift at?)

How about timing transmissions. In the 3rd gear log, could i try advancing timing from like 4000-5000 so that it doesnt dip down as much? Maybe stay flat at 12*? What would help get the turbo to spool quicker, or what would help make more power there? More timing, or leaner a/f?

Last question, what is the best way to add the timing that i added in the ECU config section to the ECU direct access maps?

Thanks for any and all help, it is very much appreciated!!
 

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I just looked at the wot pull, log #5. It looks really good! I like the way it maintains peak airflow all the way to 7500 rpm. At which rpm is the rev limit set? I hope it's higher than 7500.

There's a couple areas that could be touched up. The area around 2700 rpm to 3200 rpm has some wierdness. I see the timing spiking along with the A/F ratio. I saw the same thing in yesterday's log. I wonder if the bov is fluttering? Or maybe the turbo is surging? Either way, when timing and fueling fluctuate, it's from an erratic mas signal.

I agree that the A/F ratio could be smoother. It's just a little rich at 4k rpm and above 6300rpm.

In times like this when the tune is safe, it's not hard to decide how to make more power when given the choice between removing fuel, adding timing, or adding boost. Boost wins everytime!

I'd also add one degree of timing at 7500rpm. For WOT tuning I don't think it matters if you add timing with the sliders or directly in the map. From what I understand of dsmlink, the fuel and timing sliders control WOT and near WOT. If you want to tune transitions between cruise and WOT, then use the raw maps. Of course, to do that you'll have to know which row and column you're on since the load pointer will be floating somewhere in the middle of the map.
 
The log looks good. I would up the boost to 24-26 and lean her out some. I definitely wouldn't add any more timing you are allready seeing 19deg up top and you are running crappy 91 gas. 18-19 is the max on 93 pump, just because its not knocking doesn't mean it won't melt.

Steveb
 
ive got a bottle of nos octane booster in the tank as well.
Some people say its BS, but it definitely does help 91 octane, even if it only makes it 93-94 octane, i'll take it!!!
 
ive got a bottle of nos octane booster in the tank as well.
Some people say its BS, but it definitely does help 91 octane, even if it only makes it 93-94 octane, i'll take it!!!

It may or may not work but why would you take the risk of blowing your motor trying to run 1-2 deg more of timing. You will get a much bigger gain from upping the boost and there is a larger margin for error with boost(at your boost level). I melted 2 motors last year because I was pushing my luck with timing. I found 20deg was the limit on 93 for me.

Steveb
 
i doubt i would blow the motor with another degree or two of timing. But im pretty happy with the overall tune as it its. I would like to smooth out the a/f ratio a bit and smooth out the timing transitions, and see if i can maybe get more timing down low, but other than that, at this point i guess its time to up the boost and tune accordingly.

I plan to run the car solely on 100 octane once this tank is done, so i can even get more aggressive than this.
 
well sorry for no updates in a while...

Friday i drove the car to work and then in the middle of the day i had to roll out to get some parts for work, and my car wouldnt start...
SO i finally tracked it down to no fuel pressure. I bypassed the relay in my fuel pump rewire kit back to the stock wiring, and the car fired right up, drove no problem.

So i went to radio shack, bought 2 more auto 12v relays and plugged em in and the same thing... no start, plug the wiring back into stock and it fires right up...

SO i checked the ground wire and its fine, checked the fuse on the power and its fine. i dont know what to do but to re-run the power wire or something...

Anybody have any suggestions as to what i should check into next?

Once i get this figured out I can go ahead and do some more tuning/up the boost, but i dont really want to go out and do a bunch of pulls on stock wiring...


One good thing that happened last week is that i FINALLY got my evo 8 enkeis wrapped with some new rubber and installed! They are looking great and handling great!
 
I wonder if the fuel pump wire issue is related to the alternator/battery issues you've been having? Maybe the rewire was rubbing on something and rubbed through and caused an erratic short?
I'd re do the entire fuel pump rewire, start from scratch so you don't have to worry if the old wire was going bad.

How about a pic of your car with the new wheels?
 
I wonder if the fuel pump wire issue is related to the alternator/battery issues you've been having? Maybe the rewire was rubbing on something and rubbed through and caused an erratic short?
I'd re do the entire fuel pump rewire, start from scratch so you don't have to worry if the old wire was going bad.

How about a pic of your car with the new wheels?

yeah i can re-do it fairly easy. Running wires on this car is easier than my damn daily driver civic i just did...that car was a bi***!!
I pretty much just pulled out my amp when i went to rewire my pump and just used those wires. I know i have a new ground strap in my garage, i would just have to get a new length of power wire.
What is the preferred gauge? I think i have 8awg in there right now.


I have to find the CD for my program to upload pics from my camera. I'll look into that today or tomorrow. The wheels look badass and the tires are even more badass hahaha :hellyeah: My friend got in an arguement with me trying to tell me they are drag radials because of the pattern and how soft they are and i told him to shut up because i was the one that ordered them and i know what i payed for haha.

I'll get pics when i can... im at jury duty right now bored outta my mind!:ohdamn:
 
ok, went step by step trying to replace different things to see what was actually wrong with the fuel pump rewire and i ended up just re-doing the whole thing and the car starts and runs fine now using the new rewire.

While i was under the dash and all i wanted to look into my NLTS problem. Looks like i wired my clutch wire into the bottom switch. So i should be able to click the invert clutch signal option and all should be good right? NLTS should work?
I logged a/t d and clutchsw and they both changed when i had the clutch all the way depressed pressing the bottom switch.


Now i can go do some tuning...I might up the boost a bit tonight and see what happens. I wanted to wait to put 100 octane in the car but ehh my friend just bought a 65 nova and was talking a bunch of smack so i need to make sure this car is RUNNING haha.
 
Well i got out and did a few pulls tonight. It was kind of a sketchy tuning session because i had nobody to ride shotty with me. I think its time for 100 octane and some dyno time. This car is getting scary on the streets!

The road i was tuning on was kind of janky so i did one pull and left, then did a pull or two on the freeway on the way home.

I started out by turning the boost controller a 1/4 turn, that netted me about 24psi. Let me tell you the car is a whole different beast at 24 psi rather than 20 haha. Most of my pulls didnt go past like 6500rpm or so because i was getting scared and my CEL for knock flashed so i let off. One of the logs i checked i had 45lb/min and the other ones say 44lb/min. Thats only at about 6500rpm so i'd like to see what it would have went up to if i were able to wind the car out to 8k!

I'll post the logs i have... they arent the best as some of them are me rolling on the throttle, but ther is one good 3rd gear pull...


Log #1...
This is a nice 3rd gear pull... the only log you really have to look at.
check out like 2600rpm to like 3200 rpm. I got a choppy signal there again. The car was sputtering and the wideband read dead rich. Maybe compressor surge again?
In the upper rpms, the car felt real squirrely. I dont know if it was the crappy road or what but i think i might have got a little wheels spin. I was logging hp ant tq and they start going crazy about the times the car felt squirrely.

Log #2...
me getting on the freeway, kind of pedaling it because there was traffic and i wasnt sure if there were cops or chp around... maybe some useful info there...

Log#3...
I believe its a second gear pull downhill when i got off the freeway... again pedaling it a bit and letting off for a knock CEL.


Where to go from here?
I think im going to drive the car around, get rid of this tank of 91 octane. Turn the boost back to 20 psi. Fill up with 100 octane and go to the dyno!!!
 

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I looked at the 3rd log and it looks like you're getting knock at part throttle. Aren't you glad you can edit the timing during these transitions? :)
 
thanks hal i'll look into that. I had some other people suggest it was compressor surge, but i'll see whats up.

Dave, yes i am glad i can adjust there!
Now i just gotta get the car to sean so he can work his magic. Im going to give him a call tomorrow and try to set up a dyno appt. and then i'll see what he wants me to do with the car beforehand. If you can, point him to this thread so that he can check the logs out and see where he would want to start from... 20 psi logs from 4/15 or the 24psi logs from today haha.

I was looking at my airflow and the guy in the turbo section tech forum that just made 460tq/4xx whp on a hx35 and im flowing more lb/min than him. I havent done any dialing in of airflow that high in the HZ range so i may be overestimating airflow, but its a stock untouched 2g mas.
With a nice clean tune i might be up there with my car hopefully!
 
i am running the 2g timing map. I modified it in the upper rpm and load range to increase to 19* of timing rather than staying at 16*. Now that im upping the boost, i'll probably have to bring it back down to the stock 2g map, but first i want to see if i can get away with what ive got when i put 100 octane gas in the car.
 
With 100 octane I would say cool, but with 93 I wouldn't go higher than 16. That is just me, I like to be safe.
 
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