Fuel Upgrades & basic Tuning Questions

4Motion4g63 · 06-29-2008, 10:19 PM

I just Finished all my fuel upgrades......

550cc Injectors, DIY Pintil style
MAFT 2.0 Translator
Areomotive FPR
Walbro 255 HP
PLX SM-AFR Wideband/ PLX DM-100 Color LCD gauge

My Question is, What basic settings should I change on my FPR should I Add More pressure or less? And should I change anything on my MAFT, I had it running on stock fuel system, with just the FPR installed......

And what Should my AFR read when its good?

I have NO idea about AFR and what all that means, But I think That 11.0 or higher is RICH.
It Idles around 11. to 12. unless Its still cold then its high at 15 or so...
When I GO WOT My AFR drops to below 10, My car falls flat on its face and pulls timing...

I also have some NEW plugs and wires but dont want to foul the plugs until I know things are correct. * I may have fouled ones in now that could be causing my car to run Like crap..*..

1992awdlaser · 06-30-2008, 05:55 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 4Motion4g63

I just Finished all my fuel upgrades......

550cc Injectors, DIY Pintil style
MAFT 2.0 Translator
Areomotive FPR
Walbro 255 HP
PLX SM-AFR Wideband/ PLX DM-100 Color LCD gauge

My Question is, What basic settings should I change on my FPR should I Add More pressure or less? And should I change anything on my MAFT, I had it running on stock fuel system, with just the FPR installed......

And what Should my AFR read when its good?

I have NO idea about AFR and what all that means, But I think That 11.0 or higher is RICH.
It Idles around 11. to 12. unless Its still cold then its high at 15 or so...
When I GO WOT My AFR drops to below 10, My car falls flat on its face and pulls timing...

I also have some NEW plugs and wires but dont want to foul the plugs until I know things are correct. * I may have fouled ones in now that could be causing my car to run Like crap..*..

Set the fpr to the stock pressure. 37psi if your a manual or 43.5 if your an auto.

Read the maft manual and you will know how to tune it. First thing you have to do is set it up for the injectors. That info should be on the last page of the manual.

10.0:1 is richer than 14.0:1. You should be around 14.7:1 when at idle and cruise. At wot I like to be around 11.0:1 on pump gas.

90laserRSfwd · 06-30-2008, 06:10 AM

^ what he said

4Motion4g63 · 06-30-2008, 04:27 PM

So what does the AFR mean.........

High numbers rich mixture and low lean?
Or vise versa?

When I go WOT it drops to 10. and thats as low as my gauge reads....

1992awdlaser · 06-30-2008, 04:40 PM

As I said in my first post:

"10.0:1 is richer than 14.0:1. You should be around 14.7:1 when at idle and cruise. At wot I like to be around 11.0:1 on pump gas."

So the higher the number the leaner the mixture. The first number is how many parts air and the 1 is fuel. Leaner means that there is less fuel for the amount of air.

phunny · 06-30-2008, 06:31 PM

And when you're setting the base fuel pressure with the FPR, you MUST unplug the vacuum line from it. If not, you won't be seeing your real fuel pressure, you'll be seeing what the fuel pressure is AFTER the ecu tries to compensate.

4Motion4g63 · 06-30-2008, 10:32 PM

Ok so I am Running PIG rich .........So how do I lean it out on WOT giving what i have....

Sorry the Instructions to the GM Translator might as well be Spanish because I do not understand the terms and the cause effect they do for me.... I am not stupid I just cant read a Manual and understand if I dont know what I need to change for my tune since I don't know the basics stuff..

nobody around me is TUNING with this stuff, all pretty much stockers or ricers...

mhuffman · 07-01-2008, 05:28 PM

i fear for your engine because it doesnt sounds like you have much of an idea as to what you're doing.

rich is safe. to lean things out, turn the "WOT" knob a click or two counter-clockwise i believe to lean it out. use a logger to watch for knock.

afr=air fuel ratio.

before you even go ff trying to make wot power, make sure your fuel trims are good. get the base tuning down, and then go conservatively from there.

4Motion4g63 · 07-01-2008, 09:51 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhuffman

i fear for your engine because it doesnt sounds like you have much of an idea as to what you're doing.

Dont worry too much, Thats why I am hear asking you guys

I am a good mechanic and know when I am out of my element so I Do what any GOOD mechanic does and ask ? before I screw something up....

I need a base to start from, My fuel pressure is correct, My Injectors are correct for my MAFT and my AFR is good on my base trim at idle and regular driving, Its STILL dipping PIG rich when I go WOT throttle....It is pulling timing too....

Also How badly will a boost leak at the throttle body throw off the MAF since it is before the leak...

New plugs and wires had Ill effect too, It did fix a misfire i had at idle though...
A Picture Of the Old plugs, Look good to me, What do you guys think...
They Probably have around 3,000 miles or so on em

mhuffman · 07-02-2008, 05:27 AM

thats a good pic. they are a little white. high combustion temps?

have you done a boost leak check? if u have a large leak, metered air will escape and you'll tend to run richer than normal.

if u fix your boost leaks, just keep leaning the maf-t wot knob out until your o2 volts are between 0.9v and 0.95v or until your wideband says something around 11:1.

4Motion4g63 · 07-02-2008, 11:31 AM

Thanx, That May be the most of my issues my throttle body is a massive leak source ATM.
I 20lb test it drops to 10lbs instantly from the throttle body... When I did get a log * need to get it back on my Palm since the batteries died * BEFORE fuel upgrades with the leak, I was at 130% duty cycles hi,low,and mid trim on fuel and gettin full Knock counts at WOT...

spyderturbo007 · 07-03-2008, 08:00 AM

You'll want to fix that boost leak before going any further. You're going to run yourself up a wall trying to tune with a leak.

4Motion4g63 · 07-03-2008, 08:18 AM

OK sounds like its more of a issue than my tune with this boost leak, Could this also be the cause of my boost creep........

Ne way I think I want to go with a NICE Rebuild, I called the dealer about a new one and it was Not that bad at $280 New.....
The guys at FFWD.com Really are impressive I will drop them my cash though more than likely, Full block off...

4Motion4g63 · 07-03-2008, 11:20 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by mhuffman

thats a good pic. they are a little white. high combustion temps?

have you done a boost leak check? if u have a large leak, metered air will escape and you'll tend to run richer than normal.

if u fix your boost leaks, just keep leaning the maf-t wot knob out until your o2 volts are between 0.9v and 0.95v or until your wideband says something around 11:1.

White Plug Indicates High Engine temps, That maybe true since Even Just after I start my car and runs for less than a minute the manifold is already HOT! Is this a bad Indication of motor wear or something to do with my A/F and Intake or maybe even the plugs, BPR7ES's....