3080 HZ on a 50 trim?

haioku-rocket · 06-23-2008, 02:33 AM

Last night hit 3080 HZ on a 50 trim running 97 octane fuel, and 20 PSI? Doen't sound right to me. Its an unhacked 2g/evo 3 MAF, with an evo 3 engine/stock cams and key diver stage 3 chip running 17-19 degrees (3-6 counts of knock) up top according to the loggers, safc 2, full supporting mods. Any thoughts? ran a few runs and got right at the same results?? I am also at sea level as well. Just seems really high to me. I thought the MAF was supposed to max at 2800?

gsxtasy · 06-23-2008, 02:37 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haioku-rocket

Last night hit 3080 HZ on a 50 trim running 97 octane fuel, and 20 PSI? Doen't sound right to me. Its an unhacked 2g/evo 3 MAF, with an evo 3 engine and key diver stage 3 chip running 17-19 degrees (3-6 counts of knock) up top according to the loggers, safc 2, DNP manifold. Any thoughts? ran a few runs and got right at the same results?? I am also at sea level as well. Just seems really high to me. I thought the MAF was supposed to max at 2800?

The MAF will read more than 2800, it doesn't just hit a number, stop and flat line there. It varies from maf to maf, you just have to watch and make sure your still getting a good, legitimate signal from it. If it jumps around a bunch, then you are overrunning it. IE: 3300 to 2000 to 3000 etc...

I agree that sounds awfully high for a 50 trim at 20psi.... what was ambient air temp there?

CanadianTSi · 06-23-2008, 06:44 AM

Boost Leak.

haioku-rocket · 06-24-2008, 04:19 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by gsxtasy

The MAF will read more than 2800, it doesn't just hit a number, stop and flat line there. It varies from maf to maf, you just have to watch and make sure your still getting a good, legitimate signal from it. If it jumps around a bunch, then you are overrunning it. IE: 3300 to 2000 to 3000 etc...

I agree that sounds awfully high for a 50 trim at 20psi.... what was ambient air temp there?

Somewhere around 60-70 degrees.

gsxtasy · 06-24-2008, 04:21 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by haioku-rocket

Somewhere around 60-70 degrees.

Hmm... did you check for leaks like Canadian said?

haioku-rocket · 06-24-2008, 04:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by CanadianTSi

Boost Leak.

? That would have to be one hell of a boost leak. Car has been boost leak checked quite a bit. Last time I checked it didn't have any...however small leaks have known from time to time come up. If it does have a boost leak it will be a very small one, guaranteed that. Car spools up well. Car pulls very hard.

haioku-rocket · 06-26-2008, 05:32 AM

will check for a boost leak soon as I get a chance...perhaps thats it. thanks gentlemen.

4g63mirage · 07-02-2008, 06:56 PM

I hit 3011hz with a GT35R @ 28psi and AFC in 2nd gear. Have since switched to an AEM EMS and wideband gauge setup.

http://lilevo.com/lilevo2/LILEVO_GT35R.wmv

turboglenn · 07-02-2008, 07:00 PM

I"m thinking boost leak as well if the reading is consistant. If not maybe a MAF over run.

The least likely option is that you're motor is so ported and moving so much air that it's acutally letting the 50trim spin it's guts out to make 20psi and is moving said amount of air (very unlikely but possible)

start checking for boost leaks is my suggestion though

haioku-rocket · 07-03-2008, 05:23 AM

thanks.

jshuman · 07-20-2008, 11:36 AM

I was just wondering if you had an update on this. I am experiencing the same issue on my 50trim setup. I am using dsmlink and my logs look as if there is a large boost leak as well. I have tested for leaks many times and have found none!!! I am only running 16psi right now, but I am around 2400hz. If you are familiar with dsmlink, you know that the boost est curve is supposed to fall away from the actual boost curve around 5-6k rpms. Mine does not which usually means a boost leak. I have pulled a lot from the airflow sliders just to get boost est to match actaul boost in the upper rpms, and it would take a lot more to make it drop off as it should. I dont want to steal this thread but this has been driving me crazy. Any other ideas?
Thanks,
Justin

blcknspo0ln · 07-20-2008, 12:04 PM

I have peaked 3000hz on my 50 trim at around 32psi.

Anyway, post up a log jshuman and let's have a look.

jshuman · 07-20-2008, 12:49 PM

^ Sorry, I guess that would help

Here is the log:
run07042008-12.dat

I also have a post going on the link forums called " Low boost tune. How am i doing?".
To summarize that thread, I have checked for boost leaks many times and the translator is set correctly. My mods are current in my profile if that helps.

Thanks for any advice.

scottsee · 07-20-2008, 10:28 PM

Nothing pops out to me..

blcknspo0ln · 07-22-2008, 06:33 PM

Agreed, the log posted looks pretty normal to me?

jshuman · 07-22-2008, 09:05 PM

I was told on the link forums that it might be normal for my setups boostest to not drop off because if the smim. I finally got my alcohol software to cooperate with vista so I am putting the boost controller back on this week and going for broke. I will post a log as soon as its done. Thanks for looking guys.

1992awdlaser · 07-23-2008, 06:22 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jshuman

If you are familiar with dsmlink, you know that the boost est curve is supposed to fall away from the actual boost curve around 5-6k rpms.

It is supposed to match from 6,000 and below. After 6,000 boostest is supposed to fall off from actual boost.

Zero out your 2400hz slider, it shouldn't need to be touched.

If your logged wideband redings are correct, I would richen it up some if you are on pump gas.

Post another log after you zero out the 2400hz slider.

Just to verify you translator settings are as follows:

Aux:4
Base:2
Mode switch 1: off for 3" maf, on for 3.5" maf
Mode switch 2: off
Mode switch 3: off
Mode switch 4: off
Idle, mid, wot knobs: 0

Edit: scottsee and blcknspo0ln, the second picture in this link shows what the curves should look like. http://jeffgst.com/boostestcurve.html

jshuman · 07-23-2008, 10:17 AM

Thats exactly what I mean. My boostest does not drop off. I have had to drop the 2400hz slider just to get it to match. I would have to drop it even more if I want to make it fall away. If I zero out the 2400hz slider, boostest will will go up even further.

I checked the translator again yesterday and it is correct.

1992awdlaser · 07-23-2008, 10:48 AM

Quote:

Originally Posted by jshuman

Thats exactly what I mean. My boostest does not drop off. I have had to drop the 2400hz slider just to get it to match. I would have to drop it even more if I want to make it fall away. If I zero out the 2400hz slider, boostest will will go up even further.

I checked the translator again yesterday and it is correct.

Yeah, I know. I agree with you. Something has to be wrong somewhere on the car. The intake manifold isn't going to cause the boostest to be like that. You can tune around it with the fuel sliders. You should pm Dave (dmertz) on there and see if he has any ideas. The only things I can think of that would cause it is boost leaks or wrong maft settings, but you have said they are both good. The only other thing I can think of would be the map sensor reading low, but it would have to be reading way low to be off that much.

jshuman · 07-24-2008, 02:29 PM

Quote:

Originally Posted by 1992awdlaser

Yeah, I know. I agree with you. Something has to be wrong somewhere on the car. The intake manifold isn't going to cause the boostest to be like that. You can tune around it with the fuel sliders. You should pm Dave (dmertz) on there and see if he has any ideas. The only things I can think of that would cause it is boost leaks or wrong maft settings, but you have said they are both good. The only other thing I can think of would be the map sensor reading low, but it would have to be reading way low to be off that much.

Dave has relpied to my post and he said it might be the smim or it might not. So I am still lost. You do bring up a good point about the map sensor, however, it seems to be reading the same as my boost gauge which is tapped into the same line.

Could there be any other cause for that condition?

Thanks for the help!

jshuman · 07-26-2008, 08:28 AM

I opened up my translator box again yesterday to check it one more time. I looked at the knobs again and saw something I hadnt noticed before. The aux is set to 4 as it should be and all the dip switches are down. Here is what confused me: There are 4 knobs obviously, but mine are not labeled like I assumed they were. This is what they say,

1 2 3 4
Base WOT Base WOT
MAF SPARK

I have the first knob set to 2 and the rest are 0. Should the 3rd on be set to 2 as well?

Thanks.