o2 volts?

[StreetSleeper34]

Under any circumstances, whether a vehicle is running rich or lean, or is perfectly tuned, should the o2 volts ever drop to .02 at either idle or normal cruising conditions? I understand that at deceleration that it will read 0.00 and the trim will be at 100%, but should it ever be that low any other time? Does it matter if it is a turbo or n/t? Very confused about this, I know that the volts and trim are suppose to bounce, but wasn't sure if going that low meant that there might be a problem or not. What is a good healthy range that I should be striving for in a n/t? Right now it ranges from .02 to .8, more consistantly on the bottom half of the scale.

 

[nine5raptor]

Mine will sit at .02 pretty often after taking it out of gear and letting it idle. It can sit there for 2-3 seconds, but it depends on how high the rpm was when I lifted. I don't worry about it.

 

[Blue92]

Narrow band O2's voltage fluctuates as the car drives. If you log a graph of them they will look like a sine curve. It is very common for the voltage to move around a lot.

 

[StreetSleeper34]

Okay, I just wasn't sure if it was good to go that low. I read that on properly tuned cars the range to aim for was between .2-.8, so going all the way down to .02 seemed a little off. Thanks for the 411.

Another question though. When trying to maintain a speed, let's say either 25 or 35mph city driving, the o2v is .02-.06 and not cycling very well and the o2 trim is pegged at 167%, and if I stay like this for a few seconds, the o2 will flat line at .02, the trim will read 100% and you can definately feel a sudden power loss. Any idea what this is and what is causing it. Someone mentioned to me that my mids might be too high on my MAFT and it is trying to read more airflow or something like that and is going into open loop mode. Or is this simply not getting enough fuel. I have my MAFT maxed out right now on my n/t. Base 0 Low 5 Mid 8 Hi 8 and my fuel trims are still lean:
Hi 139%
Mid 131%
Lo 81%
It almost seems that with the n/t MAFT, the smallest injector reading is 430cc, so the n/t's 240cc are not pushing what they could because it is making the ECU account for non existant larger injectors. Does this make any sense? In the manual it states that in order to richen up the fuel band, I need to put the base at a smaller injector size, well I can't go any lower! HELP!

 

[nine5raptor]

The reason for the range not working correctly for you is it is not designed for an N/T car. From the website www.fullthrottlespeed.com :

The 1G Tanslator will allow the user to use a late model GM MAF sensor on and 1st Gen Talon or Ecipse turbo car.

 

[StreetSleeper34]

The reason for the range not working correctly for you is it is not designed for an N/T car. From the website www.fullthrottlespeed.com :

The 1G Tanslator will allow the user to use a late model GM MAF sensor on and 1st Gen Talon or Ecipse turbo car.

I got mine from Punishment Racing, it is designed specifically for the n/t wire harness, so it hooked right up with no problem and seems to be working great as far as allowing more air in and all of that, but I just wondered if the n/t MAFT set-up internally is still designed for the turbo ECU and injectors? This may be something that Punishment overlooked

 

[nine5raptor]

I very much doubt they changed anything internally. I bet all they did is add a connector to it. I don't know if the mafs are calibrated the same between the 1g nt and 1g turbo, but I would suspect they are pretty close. I would talk to the guys you bought it from and see what they say about it.