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Stroker Tech 4G63 stroker discussions - 2.1L, 2.2L, 2.3L, 2.4L, etc.

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Old 11-14-2008, 10:45 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #1 (permalink)
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Thoughts on Magnus 2.2 Stroker Kit??

Decided to go with the FP T4Z HTA88 Turbo because of the lag for us FWD and the amount of power it can make.

However after doing more and more research my thoughts that my 2.0 with 280 cams wont spool that turbo for a while. I wanna rev to 9k and heard that the 2.2 stoker kits alow better high revs than the 2.3+

Link to stoker kit:
Magnus Motorsports - DSM/Mitsu Engines

Never dealt with Magnus products and im sure they're great but its a pretty pricey kit seeing how the 2.3 kits go for half the price
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Old 11-14-2008, 11:14 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #2 (permalink)
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My thoughts? Expensive

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Old 11-14-2008, 12:54 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #3 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DSM_PWR View Post
Never dealt with Magnus products and im sure they're great but its a pretty pricey kit seeing how the 2.3 kits go for half the price
It's also a BILLET crank, kind of ups the price for that piece. My thoughts are I want one and if / when my 1g rod / 2g piston motor bites the big one I'll be saving up for one of these beasts!


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Old 11-14-2008, 01:33 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #4 (permalink)
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Hope you're going to be making more than 800-900hp because if not it's a waste really. That is IMO though.

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Old 11-14-2008, 01:39 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #5 (permalink)
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So basically...
If you had the money, you would get it...
Which means its worth getting...

Probably around 700-800hp dyno queen is what im shooting for
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Old 11-14-2008, 01:40 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #6 (permalink)
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spin spin spin spin spin spin
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Old 11-14-2008, 01:43 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #7 (permalink)
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Yeah like dSmgs-T said, with a GST and that hp goal, you'll have traction problems.

Get a GSX, convert yours to a GSX, or look for a goal a little lower.

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Old 11-14-2008, 01:49 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #8 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dSmgs-T View Post
spin spin spin spin spin spin
Like i said, thats just dyno queen numbers, this car by no means is a track car and i wont run high boost on the roads

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Originally Posted by interex View Post
convert yours to a GSX
its on the list
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Old 11-14-2008, 01:52 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #9 (permalink)
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Like i said, thats just dyno queen numbers, this car by no means is a track car and i wont run high boost on the roads



its on the list
very good!
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Old 11-14-2008, 04:03 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #10 (permalink)
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Any other thoughts on this stroker?
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Old 11-14-2008, 04:09 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #11 (permalink)
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Any other thoughts on this stroker?
Talk to Marco, he's a fun guy and brilliant conversationalist. I'm certain he can answer any question you might have.

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Old 11-14-2008, 04:36 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #12 (permalink)
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Any other thoughts on this stroker?

Last time I heard Marco talk about them he said the Evo guys really liked that combo and he's sold more to Evo guys. You might try looking around on the Evo boards for some first hand info.


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Old 11-14-2008, 04:45 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #13 (permalink)
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Any other thoughts on this stroker?
I have this kit and about to throw them together. It is just like what you see on Magnus website. The parts consist of:

Magnus 92mm billet crank
Magnus custom aluminum rods (comes standard with L19 rod bolts)
Magnus custom Ross high compression flat-top pistons (23mm wrist pins)
Plus a few other goodies.

This exact kit with their billet knife-edge crank goes for $5000 .
I didn't get their knife-edge crank (not by choice) however. The crank is still 2lbs lighter than stock but 3x stronger.

I think it is overkill for my goal. The kit alone cost more than what my car is worth. If you got the money, go for it

Let me know if you have any more questions.

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Old 11-14-2008, 05:45 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #14 (permalink)
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It's a waste of money, Eagle makes a 94mm crank, you can use long rods from Pauter, Oliver or Groden and get custom pistons made, and still come in at under half the price they are asking for their kit.


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Old 11-14-2008, 10:18 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #15 (permalink)
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I dont mine paying the money,
Ive always stood behind...
"You get what you pay for right"

Quote:
Originally Posted by GVR4592 View Post
Eagle makes a 94mm crank, you can use long rods from Pauter, Oliver or Groden and get custom pistons made.
But these parts are well known parts as well,
More info on this build please
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Old 11-15-2008, 06:38 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #16 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSM_PWR View Post
I dont mine paying the money,
Ive always stood behind...
"You get what you pay for right"



But these parts are well known parts as well,
More info on this build please
It's not like what he's telling you to do is cheaping out you would be using all good dependable name brands just without getting raped by using magnus stuff. Not that magnus stuff isn't good but if you could build a 2.2 for 1500 in parts vs 2500 I think that makes sense
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Old 11-15-2008, 07:12 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #17 (permalink)
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But what about the rod/stroke ratio on the 94mm crank? I believe that's one of the perks of the Magnus (besides being Billet), a great rod/stroke ratio which according to them gives you a 9500rpm rev limit.


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Old 11-15-2008, 07:12 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #18 (permalink)
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Are talking about 2.2 stroked, or destroked motor??? I've been eyeing these 2.2 destroked and they are one of the best motors around to build, but a little expensive/ I am not even talking Magnus stuff/.
Bored to 0.060 4g64 block with 94mm crank/or 92mm Magnus/, 162mm rods and custom pistons, will end you with around 2.24L of displacement. Plus you are going to have rod/stroke ratio of 1.723, higher than the 2.0 L. So you could rev it to the moon and still have extra 2.24L of displacement.
The rod/stroke ratio I mentioned is for 94mm crank.
For 92mm is 1.76. Simply divide the rod lenght you want to use, in this case-the longest 162mm rod to the desired stroke 92mm, or 94mm. The 2.0 rod/stroke ratio is 1.70.

The higher R/S ratio is, the higher you could rev the motor. Less stress on pistons and cyl. walls and more torque.
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Old 11-15-2008, 07:49 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #19 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by LaserAWD View Post
But what about the rod/stroke ratio on the 94mm crank? I believe that's one of the perks of the Magnus (besides being Billet), a great rod/stroke ratio which according to them gives you a 9500rpm rev limit.
Both eagle and magnus make a 94mm crank. There is a 92mm crank too. If you going with a all out build it's not much more expensive than a regular build. You can 156mm or 162 rods stroker pistons and a 92 or 94mm crank in a 4g64 block and your set with mores displacemnet and the ability to rev high. Another thing on a 420a a 2.2 is a stroker motor when talking about 4g63/4 motors it's a destroked motor. You take a 2.4 block and turn it into a 2.2 thus the destroked.
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Old 11-15-2008, 07:50 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #20 (permalink)
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Delta448 posted this in another 2.2 thread

The formula for displacement is 3.1415 * (bore/2)^2 * stroke * number of cylinders.

Using an 88mm (stock 2.0L) crankshaft:
85mm bore = 1997cc
85.5mm bore = 2021
86mm bore = 2045
86.5mm bore = 2068
87mm bore = 2092
87.5mm bore = 2116
88mm bore = 2141
Rod Ratios: stock piston and 150mm rod = 1.70
stroker piston and 156mm rod = 1.77
stroker piston, 2.4 block, 162mm rod = 1.84


For a 92mm Magnus crankshaft:
85mm bore = 2088cc
85.5mm bore = 2113
86mm bore = 2138
86.5mm bore = 2163
87mm bore = 2188
87.5mm bore = 2213
88mm bore = 2238
Rod Ratios: stock piston, 148mm rod = 1.61
stroker piston, 154mm rod = 1.67
stroker piston, 2.4 block, 160mm rod = 1.74


For a 94mm Eagle crankshaft:
85mm bore = 2134cc
85.5mm bore = 2159
86mm bore = 2184
86.5mm bore = 2209
87mm bore = 2235
87.5mm bore = 2261
88mm bore = 2287
Rod Ratios: stock piston, 147mm rod = 1.56
stroker piston, 153mm rod = 1.63
stroker piston, 2.4 block, 159mm rod = 1.69


For a 97mm Crower crankshaft:
85mm bore = 2202cc
85.5mm bore = 2228
86mm bore = 2254
86.5mm bore = 2280
87mm bore = 2306
87.5mm bore = 2333
88mm bore = 2360
Rod Ratios: stock piston, 145.5mm rod = 1.5
stroker piston, 151.5mm rod = 1.56
stroker piston, 2.4 block, 157.5mm rod = 1.62


For a 100mm (stock 2.4L) crankshaft:
85mm bore = 2270cc
85.5mm bore = 2296
86mm bore = 2323
86.5mm bore = 2350
87mm bore = 2378
87.5mm bore = 2405
88mm bore = 2433
Rod Ratios: stock pistons, 144mm rod = 1.44
stroker pistons, 150mm rod = 1.50
stroker pistons, 2.4 block, 156mm rod = 1.56


For a 102mm Crower crankshaft:
85mm bore = 2315cc
85.5mm bore = 2342
86mm bore = 2370
86.5mm bore = 2397
87mm bore = 2425
87.5mm bore = 2453
88mm bore = 2481
Rod Ratios: stock piston, 143mm rod = 1.40
stroker piston, 149mm rod = 1.46
stroker piston, 2.4 block, 155mm rod = 1.52


For a 106mm Crower crankshaft:
Crower states the 106mm crank must be used in a 2.4L block, stock 2.4L bore is 86.5mm.
85mm bore = n/a
85.5mm bore = n/a
86mm bore = n/a
86.5mm bore = 2491cc
87mm bore = 2520
87.5mm bore = 2549
88mm bore = 2579
Rod Ratios: stock piston, 2.4 block, 147mm rod = 1.39
stroker piston, 2.4 block, 153mm rod = 1.44
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Old 11-15-2008, 07:51 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #21 (permalink)
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Are talking about 2.2 stroked, or destroked motor??? I've been eyeing these 2.2 destroked and they are one of the best motors around to build, but a little expensive/ I am not even talking Magnus stuff/.
Bored to 0.060 4g64 block with 94mm crank/or 92mm Magnus/, 162mm rods and custom pistons, will end you with around 2.24L of displacement. Plus you are going to have rod/stroke ratio of 1.723, higher than the 2.0 L. So you could rev it to the moon and still have extra 2.24L of displacement.
The rod/stroke ratio I mentioned is for 94mm crank.
For 92mm is 1.76. Simply divide the rod lenght you want to use, in this case-the longest 162mm rod to the desired stroke 92mm, or 94mm. The 2.0 rod/stroke ratio is 1.70.

The higher R/S ratio is, the higher you could rev the motor. Less stress on pistons and cyl. walls and more torque.
I talked to Marco and it can be achieved different ways. I'm going with the 4g63 block because they are easier to find. I believed you can achieve ~2.24L with 4g63 block, 92mm crank, 150mm rods and custom pistons. This is the exact combination I went with after talking with Marco. We will see how my build going to come together in the next few months.

So you're saying 92mm would give the best R/S ratio? What is the R/S for 2.3/2.4L? Magnus advertised 2.2L would give a broad flat torque curve and able to take it to 9500rpm. I'm curious how this would compare to a 2.1L and 2.3L torque curves.

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Old 11-15-2008, 08:46 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #22 (permalink)
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Quote:
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I talked to Marco and it can be achieved different ways. I'm going with the 4g63 block because they are easier to find. I believed you can achieve ~2.24L with 4g63 block, 92mm crank, 150mm rods and custom pistons. This is the exact combination I went with after talking with Marco. We will see how my build going to come together in the next few months.

So you're saying 92mm would give the best R/S ratio? What is the R/S for 2.3/2.4L? Magnus advertised 2.2L would give a broad flat torque curve and able to take it to 9500rpm. I'm curious how this would compare to a 2.1L and 2.3L torque curves.
The best-highest R/S ratio is found in 2.1 destroked 1.84. You can calculate R/S ratio by dividing rod lenght to stroke, in any combo of rods,cranks pistons. As I mentioned above the highest R/S ratio is, the better for reasons I mentioned too.

As Slippi84 mentioned above some of this good info we got, after talking to a member here: delta 448. He knows a lot on this matter.
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Old 11-21-2008, 02:10 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #23 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSM_PWR View Post
So basically...
If you had the money, you would get it...
Which means its worth getting...

Probably around 700-800hp dyno queen is what im shooting for


Dsm's aren't dyno queens. If you can manage to build a 800whp talon you will run 9's or faster. You want a dyno queen by a supra
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Old 11-24-2008, 03:15 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #24 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by DSM_PWR View Post
I dont mine paying the money,
Ive always stood behind...
"You get what you pay for right"



But these parts are well known parts as well,
More info on this build please
I agree with GVR4592 and Slippi, you always 'pay for what you get', not neccesarily 'get what you pay for'. Research a $1500-2500 investment, like you are, and you'll see that many of these companies charge you more because they make the choice for you so that you can be mindlessly dumped into a fast setup. A little research and you can save literally thousands of dollars. Magnus is a great company and Marco has the experience to win you alot of races, but what have others done, too? What else is out there should be asked for all your preferences? Imagine what you can do with an extra few thousand you saved by being a smart consumer, not a trusting buyer.


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Old 11-26-2008, 06:52 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #25 (permalink)
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Quote:
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You want a dyno queen by a supra
Thats actually the next plan


Thanks everyone for the advice and you guys surely saved me literaly $1k
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Old 11-26-2008, 01:36 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #26 (permalink)
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I guess, you owe each one of us a beer then. Thanks in advance !!!
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Old 11-26-2008, 01:39 PM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #27 (permalink)
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Sure just come down to texas

bring one of those big new york pizza's ive heard so much about
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Old 06-26-2009, 11:18 AM Show Printable Version Show Printable Version   Email this Post to a Friend Email this Post      #28 (permalink)
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I'm looking at replicating Magnus' 2.2L for a Road Racing/Street Car.
Well it's actually 2.14L using 86mm pistons with the wrist pin moved up 2mm.
That set-up yields a 2.14L in a 4G63 platform with a rod/stroke ratio of 1.63.

I want to use the 94mm forged crankshaft from Eagle.
CP Pistons offers off the shelf pistons for this exact application using the 94mm stroke crank,
and 150mm rods with the wrist pin moved up 3mm on the pistons.

So, CP Pistons .020" over, 94mm crank and 150mm rods will yield a displacement of 2.16L in a 4G63 with a rod/stroke ratio of 1.6.

CP Pistons ~$600
94mm Eagle Crank ~700
150mm Eagle H-Beams ~$300
ACL Race Bearings
ARP Main Studs

And yet another way of achieving a 2.16L in a 4G63 would be to use the 94mm crank,
153mm custom rods ~$600 and 2.3L stroker pistons with the wrist pin moved up 6mm.
This set-up would yield a rod/stroke ratio of 1.63.

Now the main question would be how well will a 2g Head with +1mm valves and an extrude honed 2g intake manifold work on this set-up?
Or would it be beneficial to go with a 1g head +1mm valves and a 1g intake manifold, both using a 63mm 1g TB.

HX35 using a .70 A/R T3 housing
FP3 or 4R Cams
Fuel, 91 octane with 70/30 meth/H2O injection


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