2.3 liter stroker clearancing

[blkdudeinaz]

stroker clearancing needed for block I'm using 1g rods remanufactured crank wiseco pistons.
Whats shop is good in area to clearance block or should i attempt to do it myself??

 

[Flow-Bro]

holeshot performance or UMS tuning.

 

[SpooledGSX98]

UMS +1

umstuning.com

 

[95blackGsTurbo]

Are you sure it needs clearanced? Mine didn't. I would put it together first and see if anything rubs.

 

[SpooledGSX98]

dont fugg it up take it to UMS

 

[blkdudeinaz]

Thanks for misinformation ums doesn't have machine shop!!!! They use maxium horse power whose prices are thru the roof!!!! So I'm going to probably end up doing it myself using pink temples method

stroker

I just went through re-clearancing my 2.3L not more than 2 days ago. I have a .40 over Wiseco/Eagle Combo w/ a 4g64 crank. Here were the things I had to clearance. Theres a few things that only hit when the engine is running.

1. The #3 rod would touch and rub the inside castings of the block durring rotation. It did this when turning over by hand. I used some carbide bits to clearance this. Easy to do.

2. The rod caps and bolts were starting to hit and rub the main caps. This happened only at higher RPM's due to crank flex, etc. Again, I used carbide bits and stones to clearance the main caps for rods 1 and 4.

3. My 91 piston squirters just barely rubbed the inside wrist pin housing of the pistons. Here I had 3 choices. I could have A.) bend the squirter nozzles out of the way for more clearance, B.) Bought and used newer smaller evo style squirters, or C.) Remove the oil squirters and block them off. I chose C. Oil squirters are not needed in aftermarket forged aluminum pistons such as yours and mine. For record to block them off you need some short, M12X1.25 bolts. I used some copper washers and loctite to ensure the bolts stay put.

I did not have any problems with oil pan clearances with the rods. I can not be for sure on your rods, but my eagle's were not a problem.

Other than what I stated, I had no clearance issues.

 

[Blindsey]

Thanks for misinformation ums doesn't have machine shop!!!! They use maxium horse power whose prices are thru the roof!!!! So I'm going to probably end up doing it myself using pink temples method

Welcome!

I just went through re-clearancing my 2.3L not more than 2 days ago. I have a .40 over Wiseco/Eagle Combo w/ a 4g64 crank. Here were the things I had to clearance. Theres a few things that only hit when the engine is running.

1. The #3 rod would touch and rub the inside castings of the block durring rotation. It did this when turning over by hand. I used some carbide bits to clearance this. Easy to do.

2. The rod caps and bolts were starting to hit and rub the main caps. This happened only at higher RPM's due to crank flex, etc. Again, I used carbide bits and stones to clearance the main caps for rods 1 and 4.

3. My 91 piston squirters just barely rubbed the inside wrist pin housing of the pistons. Here I had 3 choices. I could have A.) bend the squirter nozzles out of the way for more clearance, B.) Bought and used newer smaller evo style squirters, or C.) Remove the oil squirters and block them off. I chose C. Oil squirters are not needed in aftermarket forged aluminum pistons such as yours and mine. For record to block them off you need some short, M12X1.25 bolts. I used some copper washers and loctite to ensure the bolts stay put.

I did not have any problems with oil pan clearances with the rods. I can not be for sure on your rods, but my eagle's were not a problem.

Other than what I stated, I had no clearance issues.

I'm planning a build this winter......So everything is pretty straight forward? Just swap in a 2.4 crank and check for clearance. You are able to use just a standard piston and 1g rod or do you need a special rod piston combo?