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Not too much. Might be getting a Meet together in the next month in the Murrieta/Temecula Area
 
Well nothing much down here in compton like al and mike say... haha again its not compton.... well i got forced to drop out of school in the daytime again... and work 4 jobs all during the day and go to school at night... so i can finally attend uc davis.... for the phd in engineering... im not able to get financial aid because of the stupid income certain people make.... and dont feel like sharing...
 
welp, my auto got a new head, td06 20g, and is in dier need of tuning...but I also need a FMIC that I'm waiting on in the mail...its the last piece for completion of the auto monster...at the meet, I saw a guy with the same year, and EXACT setup as my car, except he has an X...down to being auto...forget his name at the moment....

Anywho, he put down 260Whp running FILTHY Donald Trump rich because he had a 255hi flow pump with no AFPR....that was on he said 17psi?...I'll be running 21psi and I'm FWD auto so I'll be shooting for low 300Whp once the 264's are in...

Yay!
 
well me, i pick up a ballbaring 50trim,tubular manifold,Evo FMIC,2.5 turboback,NGK 7,Greddy type S, trying to get 500 bucks to take my car down to Fully built motor sports to get my heads ported and polish and get a 1g Manifold and throttlebody installed before i dyno again,i am also waiting on 650cc and walbro 190,LSD,Clutchmaster Stage 2,and ACT flywheel,i am looking for 300 and will start looking for a 1G GSX
 
iam in the cut over seas right now saving money as we speak. i have saved over 2500.00 so far iam looking to have 10k before i get back. so in about 5-6 months ill be somewhere online in my house ordering the parts i need to get my car tuned up. not to mention the full 2gb kit i have sitting in my friends living room. so when i can i am sneaking off to use the computer here so that i can scan the tuners pages and get back out of this mind state.
 
We'll I'm still trying to salvage my 7bolt after a disappointing 256hp dyno run last month on a 50trim at 19lbs. I'm trying to see if i can manage to fix my low compression cylinder with a 1G head swap. Specially, with 3 cylinder with almost 180 compression and only 1 with 120, I'm hoping its just a valve problem. If anybody has a 1G head please let me know.
 
Psi, was that hot or cold, wet or dry? And have you tried getting a proper leakdown done to see where it's losing the compression?
 
Im here in hong kong and going nuts man this place is crazy. i put this in whats new cause. Hey! its new. haha ill post up pictures when i can. it will most likly be in a whole new topic. well i got to go for now. :thumb: later tuners.
 
Gary 420A RS said:
Im here in hong kong and going nuts man this place is crazy. i put this in whats new cause. Hey! its new. haha ill post up pictures when i can. it will most likly be in a whole new topic. well i got to go for now. :thumb: later tuners.

Hey, great place to be. Check out the night market? What area are you staying in? Remember to look before crossing the street. Man, I bought a jacket for less than $4 in the night market and it's still in good condition. South East Asia :thumb:

OKay, on topic: Trying to buy more parts for my car. Instead of driving I am remodeling my living room. Also trying to buy more product for my business.
 
PSI, first test is a compression test on a warm engine. If a cylinder comes back low, drop a capful of oil into the low cylinder and let it spread out. Then do another compression test. This is a 'wet' test, and will tell you if it's your rings causing the low result. With oil there to help the seal, if it's the rings it'll come back with good/much, much improved compression.

If wet testing doesn't help/improve the result, and your compression isn't sub-50, it's more likely to be a valve leak.. whether burnt or mis-seated, no idea. But generally replacing a single valve and guide (if neccessary) is a hell of a lot cheaper than a ring job.
 
Talesin said:
PSI, first test is a compression test on a warm engine. If a cylinder comes back low, drop a capful of oil into the low cylinder and let it spread out. Then do another compression test. This is a 'wet' test, and will tell you if it's your rings causing the low result. With oil there to help the seal, if it's the rings it'll come back with good/much, much improved compression.

If wet testing doesn't help/improve the result, and your compression isn't sub-50, it's more likely to be a valve leak.. whether burnt or mis-seated, no idea. But generally replacing a single valve and guide (if neccessary) is a hell of a lot cheaper than a ring job.

I did the wet test, on a warm engine, and it went from 110 to barely 120 so I was thinking that it may be the valves. Other 3 are still around 175-180 so I'm debating what to do next either a 1G head swap or other cheaper alternative until I can save up for a 6bolt. Note that I already have about 210K miles on this engine, still a a great daily driver :thumb:

Sorry for the off topic, maybe I'll just open a new thread for this issue. But thanks Talesin.
 
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