How are you checking the voltage in the KS? I just tried mine and I only get a reading on the harness side, I got 5.6v. No reading came from the KS side.

I kept the connector attached and just slid the positive into the KS side of the connector and grounded to the battery. Should I disconnect the harness before testing?

Your suppose to test the harness side, I did my test and got 5.6v and it does say in the manual 8-11v is what you want.

I don't see how it would matter which side you test if the harness is still connected. The harness is just a connector so you can change out the sensor without splicing wires correct? Maybe I am missunderstanding what you mean by testing the harness side. You do mean the harness about a foot from the sensor behind the block right? Sorry for the confusion. Thanks for your help.

Man, your starting to confuse me. The harness is the MAIN harness that comes out of the main ECU harness, ya know the big ass wire bundle thats bolted onto the back of the intake manifold, well the harness that comes out of that you need to test that one. That harness is where the knock sensor harness plugs into. Its a female style harness that you need to test.

I have the same problem accept my ECU puts out 0V to the knock sensor harness. I made sure that it's the ECU problem and not an open circuit problem like a break in the wire going to the harness from the ECU. Does your car run like crap, no power, hesitate,idle miss.etc...?
I have post a question about this but no one would respond. I think that my ECU is going bad gradually. I'm trying to find someone who would let me swap their good ECU to my car before I buy a new one. BTW, how is your car now?

93DE-EZ-UM, did you test the main harness side with the key in the ON position? not the harness on the knock sensor, the one from the main ECU harness that plugs into the knock sensor.

Yes, I checked it on the harness side. I checked the continuity from the harness in the engine bay to the harness of the ECU and I have good connection on both ground and supply wire. I even cut the #9 (denotation) wire coming from the ECU with all the harness of the ECU pluged in and measured the voltage off the ECU with the key in the ON position and it still measure 0V. So, how is your car running right now?
I'm having my brother order me a new refurbished ECU from the factory and will se if that fixes all my problems. Keep in touch.

Well I just ordered another knock sensor since the only reason I figure it would only be putting out 3 volts is if the sensor was dieing. I will let you guys know if it helps. Also I found that one of the caps on my ECU is leaking. I hope that wasn't the problem after spending $80 on the sensor. Once again thank for your help. Sorry about the confussion. I confuse myself sometimes.

I was told by some friends at work who are elctronic design engineers and also love cars. They explain that some knock sensor are like a potentiometer and when it detectes knock, it will short to ground which will read 0V across the knock sensor and in return the ECU detects that 0V and retards the timing. Some other knock sensor sends voltage when knock is detected. This type of Knock Sensor is a Piezo Electric device that when you stress it, a voltage is produced. This is similar to the electronic lighters for the Gas Refrigerators or the lighter for your BBQ except these sensors do not spark.
I don't really know for sure if our knock sensor is like a potentiomter or not but I'm guessing that it is because the manual indicated that the voltage should read 8 to 11Volts if you measure the harness coming from the ECU with the ignition key in the ON position. Which indicates to me that the ECU not the knock sensor is producing the voltage. AS for your case 92turbos, you measured the voltage with the harness plugged into the knock sensor and read 3V. Your method can have 2 answers. 1 The knock sensor is bad and pulling the 8V to 3V. 2 The ECU itself is putting out 3V. I would isolate the problem by disconnecting the harness that is connected to the ECU and see if you get 8 to 11V there first. That way you'll know that is not the ECU that is putting out 3V and you'll know for sure that it's your knock sensor.
Sorry for so long... I'm having my brother ordering me a NEW ECU tomorrow. Keep in touch..

Wow, that makes alot of sense. Thanks. I will have to go try that after work. How much are you getting your ecu for? I have a hook up at mitsu where I get parts for cost but since list on the computer is $1100 I figure even at cost it is going to be alot. I know the ECU is the root of all my problems but I am in denial. But thanks for the great explenation. I was thinking our sensor was one that creates it's own voltage. Damn I just spent $70 on a knock sensor I might not need. Oh well. Let me know if the ECU fixes your problem.

I'm getting mine for $345 new from my brother's friend who works at the dealership also. It'll be here monday or tuesday. I hope that it will fix all my problems. Keep posting..

92 turbos, did you get your knock sensor? I'm still waiting for mine due to some idiot at the shipping department. They got my order mixed up. Anyways, keep in touch.