venting without VPC?

venting = bad

Originally posted by Boostit
venting without VPC?

venting = bad

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he's not venting, read the post. He just wants to know if getting rid of the rubber recirc. tube, and replacing it with a metal one will bring out the sound more.

chances are the metal will make it louder, but since the path is so short, i don't think the gain will be noticeable, however it will probably dress up the engine a bit.
T.C.

Originally posted by 4g63tc
he's not venting, read the post. He just wants to know if getting rid of the rubber recirc. tube, and replacing it with a metal one will bring out the sound more.

chances are the metal will make it louder, but since the path is so short, i don't think the gain will be noticeable, however it will probably dress up the engine a bit.
T.C.

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Hmmm, this will be quite interesting. I'll fabricate this and let you guys know how it goes. At the moment, here are my mods that may, or may not, effect the results:

full hard pipe intake system with a cheap phantom roadworks turbo inlet pipe, K&N FIPK, & 1g BOV.

Since the metal is semi-flexible and thin, I'm going to solder (spelling is off?) on a small resonating piece inside of the tube. and pray it doesn't come flying apart into my turbo.

It's my thought that this will prob make a bit of a sound difference, because i'm blowing air through the rubber piece and it sounds kind of mellow and when I blow air through the metal piece, it sounds much higher pitched. Dunno, i'm installing tomorrow and i'll let you guys know!

Originally posted by stockmkt8r


Since the metal is semi-flexible and thin, I'm going to solder (spelling is off?) on a small resonating piece inside of the tube. and pray it doesn't come flying apart into my turbo.

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Soldering the piece may not be strong enough, it could quite possibly get lodged in the turbo, remember your bov is blowing off into the recirc tube. ( think of the pressure)
If you're gonna do something like that, weld it!

But if you really want good sound, just recirc a Greddy type S, it's plenty loud, even when plumbed back into the intake.

yes pls post some pics of your progress.
i find this to be a very interesting idea.


zer0

Plumb in a dime-store whistle with those small fan blades for the best sound.

Originally posted by jmc94gsx
Plumb in a dime-store whistle with those small fan blades for the best sound.

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Huh? Where can I buy a dime-store whistle with a small fan blade? Good idea, but i'm afraid that small fan will bust apart when I start flowing 14psi!

Anything in the air path=bad.
Metal recirc tube= an interesting idea.

Try buying a 1" ID 45 degree metal pipe from JCwhitney, then cut it the lengther you need and use rubber couplings on both ends. A 45 degree bend should work, maybe I should try this..

I read this earlier today, and found it interesting, so went and found some 1" copper tubing i had lying around, and went to the hardware store and got 2-45 degree fittings and 1 90 degree, and i made a full copper replica of the stock bov return tube, im just gonna cut a few inches off ok the stock hose and use them with 2 small hose clamps to connect the copper to the nipples on the bov and intake, I am going to solder the tubing together and put it in tomorrow, I will let you guys know how it goes

Dan

Ehhhhh, I failed at my attempt to do this. My flexible metal piping wouldn't stay on correctly so I never even got to put it on to try.

If any of you find a work-able solution, pls let me know!

what about 1" aluminum flex piping from Home depot?

Try this:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59900

I did and I got a better "aftermarket" sound.

Boz

Or you could make a home made intake like I do that positions the dump tube as close to the MAS as possible Even when I had my 1G BOV, it was very animated and noticable. Now that I have a GReddy Type-S, it sounds vented. I ended up cutting my stock rubber dump tube over ½ the stock length, it makes a big difference. Heres the VFAQ link for that intake....

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?postid=551724#post551724

Or, if you dont want to bother, email or PM me and you can purchase a pre-made one from me for about the same youd pay for materials...

Originally posted by bosljeff
Try this:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?s=&threadid=59900

I did and I got a better "aftermarket" sound.

Boz

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Gave me compressor surge. Others as well....but only at low (part-throttle) boost.

Originally posted by LandoAWD


Gave me compressor surge. Others as well....but only at low (part-throttle) boost.

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I'm still learning so sorry: compressor surge? So right now at stock boost levels this compressor surge probably won't happen, but when I get the joe p I just ordered in the mail installed I might have this problem? Hopefully not. If I do, it is a good thing I added hardware to "reverse" this mod when I did it.

Why would it do this compressor surge? Doesn't this mod simply keep the bov from leaking too early?

Boz

Thats the thing...there is no regulatory effect...just open and closed. It would open violently at about 8psi and cause audible backspin (surge) on the compressor, as well as cause bucking. I never did try it with a second reference on the lower (new) nipple, but had no problems what so ever after going back to a stock 1g.

Sorry so long!!

Lando- (Disclaimer: the following is not arguing. I am not even going to pretend I know more than you. Just questioning to learn).

When I did this bov mod, I spent tons of time "running it through my head" and following the path of air and so on. Yeah, the bov is open or closed, I agree, however I think that this mod makes it that black and white and without the mod there is a grey area. When I was "dissecting" my bov before I even touched it with a drill I spent about an hour learning how the bov works and why in gods name this mod even did anything. The small hole/port (stock/prior to mod) that is filled with a set screw: doesn't it allow the passing air to creep into the diaphragm via the small port parallel to the main port allowing it to "weaken" the diaphragm while the tb is open thus making it very ready to blow open when the tb plate is slammed closed during the shift? You see what I'm saying/asking? If you plug this port with the set screw, the only air allowed up to the diaphragm is when the tb plate is closed. Then and only then. In theory, this makes it open or closed and nothing else. Well, even if the theory is right, if you had compressor surge, you had compressor surge. Theory isn't going to change that, so hey, different strokes for different folks.

Boz

Originally posted by bosljeff
Sorry so long!!

Lando- (Disclaimer: the following is not arguing. I am not even going to pretend I know more than you. Just questioning to learn).

When I did this bov mod, I spent tons of time "running it through my head" and following the path of air and so on. Yeah, the bov is open or closed, I agree, however I think that this mod makes it that black and white and without the mod there is a grey area. When I was "dissecting" my bov before I even touched it with a drill I spent about an hour learning how the bov works and why in gods name this mod even did anything. The small hole/port (stock/prior to mod) that is filled with a set screw: doesn't it allow the passing air to creep into the diaphragm via the small port parallel to the main port allowing it to "weaken" the diaphragm while the tb is open thus making it very ready to blow open when the tb plate is slammed closed during the shift? You see what I'm saying/asking? If you plug this port with the set screw, the only air allowed up to the diaphragm is when the tb plate is closed. Then and only then. In theory, this makes it open or closed and nothing else. Well, even if the theory is right, if you had compressor surge, you had compressor surge. Theory isn't going to change that, so hey, different strokes for different folks.

Boz

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The problem is only at part throttle. I think the mod is still a great bang for the buck mod, it just wasn't working on my car. It is my understading that if you put a reference from the upper IC pipe to the lower nipple, the BOV will function as stock. I never felt like drilling my "blingy" Buschur pipe, so I didn't test this. The mod would be perfect for balls out drag racing, but 'for me' (disclaimer) it more of a hassle at low boost interstate passing and such.

Aaah, I see. I understand. It is kinda like having a 4 puck ACT in stop and go traffic (I hope to god that anology is right). Yeah, my idea for the nipple on the uicp does allow you to put a vaccum hose from the uicp to the new port put in the bov thus allowing it to to back to stock. I am still running a stock uicp so I had nothing to lose and to me both have worked. Maybe I don't get any surge yet because I don't have enough mods to make it that obvious at partial throttle. I haven't put it back to stock yet and so far so good. I probably only get the fun sound and don't have enough mods to make it worthwhile yet. Oh well. btw my friends seriously call me "Disclaimer Jeff" so please bear with me.

Thanks again for the lesson!

Boz

Hell, there are hundreds of folks on here that know more than I....I just happened to have just done this mod and switched back. I'm sure someone could provide a more consise explantion for what I was experiencing. I have also heard of using a pressure activated switch between the top and bottom nipples, so that at 15psi or less, it uses the bottom (stock effect) and quick release at higher boost.

That would kick ass, well maybe. Might start to be more hassle than it's worth. Oh well. At least we can say we helped educate others on this thread through our debate.