Finally! After three months of waiting for the snow to melt, my Garett T-25 decided to end its life about two weeks ago. I was waiting for warmer weather to put the 14b in, but with the T-25 making a horrible noise on boost, I decided to put it in now.

I started the whole deal on Friday. I worked with Triple Digit Motorsports to get a kit together for my car in a short amount of time. They did not have a prefab kit, so we put one together, and they had the whole setup ready in two days flat(!). I got all new lines, banjo bolts, gaskets, crush washers, 2.25" J-Pipe, and an Extreme XBC. I brought the car to my parents house Friday night, put the car up on stands, drained the oil, and coolant. I pulled the O2 sensor, upper and lower heat shelds, and dumped about an entire can of PB Blaster on every stud, nut, and bolt I was going to work on. Then I called it a day.

Saturday morning, I started to pull the turbo and manifold, along with everything else. I pulled the radiator and fans as one unit, and I labeled all my hoses and bolts with masking tape (no extra bolts this way). All bolts came free very easy thanks to the PB, and I found that one of my exhaust manifold studs was loose, and leaking. After looking at the T-25, I found that the shaft had a lot of play, and was moving laterally. I pulled the rest of the assembly out, and took the manifold, turbo, and everything else downstairs for porting.

Porting took up half of Saturday and Sunday. I used a 22K RPM die grinder with a Carbide steel bit to port the O2 sensor housing, Exhaust manifold and turbo. This was only my second attempt at porting, and I was told it came out very well. I removed the ring and step from the turbo to the manifold, and gasket-matched ported everything. (Be sure to use the new gaskets to match) This took about 10 hours for everything, including polishing the whole setup after porting. Then, I painted the J-pipe, heat shields, and my 1G BOV with black HI-Temp paint.

Monday (President's Day), everything went back together. In the middle of the blizzard. In my garage. God that sucked. A little word of advice: The oil return bolts on the 14B and the T-25 are different. Just use the bolts that hold the old oil feed line in place. They will fit. You should plug the old oil feed line, and use the one from the head anyway. When all was together, I let it idle for about 30 minuted, checked for leaks, then romped on it in neutral to see if it was building boost. (My car does this since I put the test pipe in. I'll see 10LBs if I goose it quick) Everything was good, so I closed it up and went for a spin in the blizzard.

14B vs. T-25: First off: No more boost spikes. Good. Second: Welcome to boost creep. Hehe. I have the XBC set to only 11 LBS, and it pulls so much harder than the T-25 did at 16 LBS, and the Garett spiked to 21 LBS! Once this turbo hits 5K, it's like someone just lets it loose. I'm getting about a 1.5 PSI spike, which isn't too bad. I plan on only running about 12-13 LBS until I upgrade my fuel system.

If anyone is planning a budget turbo upgrade on a 2G, GET THE 14B! It makes a world of difference if you take the time to do it right and port everything. Total project cost: Install kit: $290.00 XBC: $115.00. 14B with 10K on it: $200.00. Not bad for a little over $600.00 And I still have plenty of room for upping the boost. The 14b can handle up to about 21LBS if you have the fuel to feed it.

I hope this helps anyone planning the 14B install. I will upload pictures soon.

Thanks,
Matt.

That sounds good, I know everything is a real big upgrade compared to the shitty t-25. But you paid 600$, why didnt you just shell out a tiny bit more and get a 16g or a t-28 or something? Second question is how the hell do you build boost by just stepping on the gas once? Thre has to be some sort of load on the motor...

Originally posted by candela
That sounds good, I know everything is a real big upgrade compared to the shitty t-25. But you paid 600$, why didnt you just shell out a tiny bit more and get a 16g or a t-28 or something? Second question is how the hell do you build boost by just stepping on the gas once? Thre has to be some sort of load on the motor...

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Good questions. First, I wanted to go with the 14B because I'm staging my upgrades. The car's not ready for the 16G yet (not sure I am, either), and swapping one in is pretty easy from here on in. I can either swap in just the compressor housing for a few hundred bucks, or I can just put in a Big 16G, and I don't have to go through the hassle of porting the manifold, O2, and getting a new kit.

Second, When I had my cat on the car, it would not build boost at neutral. With the test pipe, even the T-25 built boost for a second in neutral. It wil NOT hold boost, but if I gun it, and let off at 5K, it will build 10LBS for a split second. Enough to see that the turbo I just installed was in fact working.

Ah I see, never really hard of someone not wanting more power but hey I guess its cool to go in stages. I only had my 16g for 3 months befre I upgraded Anyhow Im not sure if swapping a 16g compressor is the best idea, but Im sure you can usually get what you put into 14b's when your done with them... Youll like it Im sure. I still dont understand how you can hit any amount of boost regardless of cat or not cat. There is typically no load on the motor while in nuetral and revving typically doesnt do anything (maybe 1psi for a half second or so)...

I know with TMO ecu's a preload is put on the engine for the 2 step and you can build a few pounds, but 10psi without anythign like that seems odd to me

To be perfectly honest, I don't understand why it boost in neutral either. But it does. My understanding of this was the same as yours. Todd's studderbox mod works because he is modulating the fuel and spark so that the engine has to work just to stay at the preset RPM. Engine working -> load -> building boost. But I'm not putting any load on the motor. And yet it still hits 10PSI for about 1/2 second. I dunno.

As far as the 16G goes, the $600 bucks I put into this projects included a $115.00 boost controller. Factor that in, and just the turbo kit and turbo cost me about $490.00 My kit also included every gasket I would need. The 16G kit from Turbochargers.com is $700.00. I would have cost me $815.00 to do the same thing I just did with the 14b. Only $200.00 more, but still, it's $200.00 I just don't have right now. Either way, it's definately not as fast as a 16G could be, but it still puts a big smile on my face. And what's not to say that I might skip the 16G altogether and go from a 14b to something else? Now THAT would be an upgrade.

Matt.

Originally posted by candela

I know with TMO ecu's a preload is put on the engine for the 2 step and you can build a few pounds, but 10psi without anythign like that seems odd to me

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Odd yes...... but does it build boost 10+PSI.... without a doubt

Correct me if I'm wrong but the 10psi in neutral is just a reading from the vac line and not the turbo actually spooling, is it not?

the clutch may not be completely disengaging (if you have it pushed) or you must have some gear oil that is thicker than snot, creating drag on your tranny in neutral.

to get 10psi in the vac line, the turbo must spool and compress...

Originally posted by nine5raptor
to get 10psi in the vac line, the turbo must spool and compress...

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Yeah, raptor nailed it. You can't get a positive boost reading unless the turbo is doing work. As far as the clutch/tranny thing goes, the reading I got was with the tranny in neutral. It does the same thing when the clutch is in/out.

Anyone know how the motor can build boost (even for a fraction of a second) with no load? Any ideas?

Thanks for the replys, guys.

Matt.

only if for some reason, you send a massive pressure wave, with no support after it to spool the turbo. You must have a load on it...I think maybe really thick gear oil or something not lubed right.

Maybe he has a vaccume leak or his timing is off.

Or maybe he is revving it up to the rev limiter and it will build boost at 7.5k.

.

go out an try it on your car.
I can go 100% throttle (verified with pocketlogger) up to 5k and build maybe a max of 0.5 psi. The inertial forces on the engine are not enough of a load to produce enough exhaust to spin the turbine fast enough to compress the air more than that.

blackgsxrcst... you are a retard. That is one of the dumbest things to say as it is completely not true. if anythign having a cat in woudl help build boos tin nuetral, but raptor hit it right...noraml engine revving is jus tnot enough load, there has to be some other factor here

hey guys, disregard any posts under my name. someone has been ####ing around with posting threads under my name. i just checked my e mail and saw numerous of posts replys that werent even made by me.
Candela - i agree with you and raptor. just stop calling me a retard . jk, later fellas

Well I didnt mean to get nasty, just hate when people say silly things and think they are so right BTW nice coverup

STOP boost creep

I ported my 14b along with 1g manifold and o2 housing and STILL the boost creeps, tho it helped a tiny bit. Right now i got a mechanic swapping a JDM motor for my dead one. I dont know if i should keep the JDM manifold/14b turbo/o2 housing.. the way they are and see if it will still creep OR swap in my ported ones.