Well the first thing you need to decipher is:
Are the wires you tapped/spliced for the SAFC still intact?
Are all appropriate grounds attached, etc.

Than you can decide weather or not your AFC is junk, or ECU.

Try those and see were we are!

p.s.-If your relentlessly turning the engine over in vein, its a good possibility that the plugs have been fouled and will merit maintaing them.
I noticed after a buch of work I did that the plugs were fouled (Even tho they were new) setting me back further in my diagnostics. Dont leave these often overlooked details.
Prob. no relation to your Actual problem,but what the hell?!

Nick

I have made sure that all the wires touched from the S-AFC install are still intact. The power wire was actually cut in half but it's back together by a twist on cap (it's tight)... and all the other wires are A-OK... That's why this has me so puzzled... And also I jsut got done checking all fuses in the car and none are blown...

All Appropriate grounds are attached... Only 1 for the ECU to my knowledge....

Is there a way I can test the current of all the wires at the pins inside the plug that goes into my ECU? With like a voltmeter to make sure the appropriate amount of current is coming through to the ECU?

The ECU has voltage regulators.
THe only thing I can think of is..well I can't.
Puzzling...

1.ECU is connected
2.All wires are connected correctly
3.Grounds tight
4.ECU isn't Junk
5.The MPI and IGN fuse next to the battery are good

thats all I can think of

hope it helps

ANyonE!??? STEP RIGHT UUUUUUUUP!!

Nick

Back to basics. Check for Fuel and Fire at the engine itself. If you have both then it should at least run crappy. Insert ye ole screw driver in to the spark plug end of the wire, hold close to but not touching ground and have helper attempt to crank car. If you see spark then you know the coils, crank sensor, and wires are good. Check for fuel pressure at fuel rail. If you get drowned in gas... fuel pump is being commanded to pump, thus fuel rail has fuel.
Also, I'm really glad you (spool) brought up the spark plugs. I've seen numerous cars fill the shop full of black smoke when they finally do crank up because they were simply flooded. Most cars are designed to shut off the injectors when the pedal is pushed and held to the floor while cranking. Constantly turning the key on cycles the fuel pump on but also sprays the injectors thus soaking the plugs. Plugs are cheap, try a new set, hold on to them for your next tune up if that doesn't fix the problem.
Get back to us.
Doug

####

Aight, I just got back, been messing around with it ever since my 2nd post, I mentioned that one of my power wires going into the harness in the ECU was wire capped, well I took it out of that and used a butt connector now. It's a strong connection I'm confident in... Is it obvious to tell if 1 of those 3 main fuses is blown on the + Side of the Battery? I'm not used to those HUGE fuses like that, but I assume you'd be able to tell if they were blown by looking through the top clear plastic peice and see that the metal isn't touching... is this correcT? If so, then I checked EVERY FRIGGIN fuse in the car and not 1 single fuse is blown... I'm so lost.

Doug99RS, you want me to put a screw driver down in the wire the spark plug goes into to see if I get the #### shocked out of me?? is that what I'm hearing here? Also if there is NO spark, that doesn't necesarily mean that my "starter, coil, wires, or plugs" are bad does it? I'm sure there's a wire on the ECU/harness that's responsible for getting the power to the above parts, right? It seriously seems like the ECU is just not powering up....

Please guys, stick in here with me and help w/ any more suggestions!! Please!!

bump...

I think what he is wanting you to do is to check to see if you are getting any spark thru your plug wires. You won't get shocked by doing this unless you aren't following directions. Try this:

1) pull the plug wires off of the spark plugs themselves
2)unplug the mpi fuse (you have 3 big fuses connected to the main power line to your battery, it's the one in the middle)
3)get a screwdriver and stick it down the wire as far as it will go
4)bring the end of the wire (where the screwdriver is) very close to a ground (any part of your chassis such as the underneath of your hood, metal part only), don't let them touch
5)have a friend try to start the car

.....okay what you are looking for is a spark when he tries to start the car. if you see a spark b/n the plug wire and the chassis of the car then your ignition system is fine. if you don't see a spark then something is wrong with your ignition system.

Try this and see if it helps

And you check the big fuses just like the smaller ones, if it is blown you will be able to tell pretty easily.

Hope this helps,
Brad

O.K. guys... in my other post at dsmtalk.com, they told me that if the Check Engine Light doesn't come on for a moment when I turn the key to the ignition stage or when I'm trying to start the car, then that's an obvious clue that my ECU does not have power, which is what I've expceted all along... My problem is "WHY" doesn't it have power... I still think It's a fuse I don't know about or a bad relay somewhere... just don't know where or how to check a "Relay" to see if it's bad.... Anyone help?

So when you "Uninstalled" the SAFC, you were quite careful to cover the tapped/spliced wires, right?
I refer to shorts happining that might not cause harm when the ECU/Wires are all out, but when you stuff it back in, it can short if the wires aren't covered up well enough.
This is something I had to cinsider only because Ive seen it. Promptly popped more than one fuse as well, but we know the fuses are ok

Thats all I can think of now, without seeing your actual problem..

Funny you should bring this up. I currently have a 95nt causing some trouble for me (not really, just started looking at it tonight). Stalls out while driving instantly. No sputter then plop. Just bam, gone. Sometimes fires back up on it's own, some times it has to be cranked up again and other times it won't crank at all.
What I've found is (with input from the owner):
-Car does die
-When it dies and won't crank the CEL will NOT light up during bulb check
-when the CEL light lights up it WILL crank and run
-the dealership scan tool cannot communicate with the PCM

The only options here are: Bad ground circuit for PCM, bad battery voltage circuit for PCM, or a bad PCM itself. I started looking at it tonight but had to finish another job and won't get back to it until after lunch tomorrow. I started by checking the big ground at the battery, small ones attatched at the fenders, fire wall and that's as far as I got.

This is a problem on a car that's not been modded. The tests are basically going to be the same for you except you have to add in the connections for the used-to-be-safc. Which... if you didn't have a problem before it then either the wiring repair is not right, some fuses are blown, or the computer got fried some how. I'll post more about what I'm doing to fix my project-no-start-talon and hopefully, we can both compare notes.
Doug

Yea, some people recently have been telling me that it may be a RELAY somewhere that may have blown, so that's what I'm trying to identify now... All my fuses are good, grounds are good and both ECU's are good.. Just bought the 2nd one 2 or 3 days ago and it gives same result.... Anyone know how to test a relay? Also does anyone know what the brass box mounted in front of the ECU in the dash/console thing, underneath where the radio goes is? It has a harness on one side and is screwed on to the side metal peice with two screws... I'd like to know if that's my problem b/c that is where the clicking noise used to come from when the ECU would turn ON or OFF, and now it doesn't do it. Thinking it may be blown.. Anyone?

Well, I just now noticed that you have a 1g so I can't give you specific advice. However... I did find my problem on this particular 2g.
First off you remember I said I had no communication with the dealer scan tool, next I had no CEL when it would not crank, it was stalling out dead as a door nail, it was wiping clean my memory and the idle was not smooth on start up.

First off the idle was unsmooth because the short term memory kept getting wiped out, the ECU was losing either ground or battery voltage, thus clearing out both trouble codes and memory.

I had three ground wires from the PCM (ECU), one battery positive and one key on positive. I back probed all 5 wires and had one test light going to battery positive. One test light going to battery negative. When the thing shut off I did not lose any of my grounds or battery voltage feeds. It actually got to the point where it would not crank period. I was able to check all five wires confirming that it was ground good and was getting power. The PCM just wasn't doing anything with it. I followed it up by having someone attempt to start the car while I tapped on the PCM with a hammer and it cranked and ran.

What does this mean for you... Basically you need to check all the ground wires AT the ECU connector(s) as well as the battery positive feed and the key on battery positive. If all this is present then it increases the chances that the ECU may be dead but is not a final diagnosis since you can't tell just yet if you've lost communications as well like I did with the scan tool. The lack of a check engine light may help you find that out.

A relay is nothing more than two circuits. One supplies a path for a component to work and the other "Makes" that circuit. As in... it's a switch, the circuit being made flows whatever amount of current needed to run the component on the end of the line. The other circuit uses a small amount of voltage to open or complete the circuit. In order to bypass the switch affect, you can jump pins 30 and 87 on the relay and that will cause the component on the end to work.
Doug

look at the relay in the engine bay w/ MPI and IGNITION and so on...check that little box...it might be a fuse or relay in there...hope u find out...pz