Hey everyone, I am in the process of porting my 2g cylinder head that is going to mate up to my new 6 bolt block. I am not new to porting, as I have ported, polished, and shaved the heads on my Buell, along with porting the heads on my Dad's Harley, and doing it to all the heads on my old race bikes. But, I am newer to the car heads. I know it's the same concept, but I am looking to be making roughly 500awhp with this head, if not more. I am going to be using a top mount HX40, along with all the supporting modifications (fuel, cams, ecmlink, etc.) So, with that being said, let me know what you guys think I should be doing different (if anything), and where I could improve the porting work of the 2g head. I will be posting more pictures throughout the week, and when I get more time to tinker with it. It's finals week this week at school, so it might not get updated as much this week. But it is definitely a work in progress. These pictures are just after a couple hours today. I am using a Chicago Tool foot powered dremel (sp?), with carbide cutting bits, and I am about to go get some more sanding bits for when I'm ready to smooth everything out.









Like I said, that's just a little clean up. The porting is still to come, but these are no where near done, obviously.

You dont want to increase the port size. A good polish would have been sufficient. Getting rid of the casting marks, "knife edging the dividers", etc. More importantly on the exhaust side.

But more importantly is the bowl blend and unshrouding the valves.

Yeah I was wondering about that. I port matched the intake runners and exhaust on my Buell, by making the ports larger. But that's good to know. Not to make them bigger on these. Today was mostly cleaning up all the carbon and deposits inside the head.

I won't say much other than you haven't touched the most important part yet.

Mmmmm that's pretty. Well, thank you for that! I know what to make it look like now! Haha

Make sure you bring the divider to a point.

viperlp01 said:

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work of art

What were the best kind of bits you guys used when doing this? I have carbide cutting tools, but obviously I don't need to cut all that much. I am going to use sanding bits at the end to clean it up a little bit.

Rough in with aluminum carbide bits(big flutes) then when you get it where you want it use spiral rolls to finish it off. You can use cross buffs to make it glass but that is more for looks.

I usually finish with cross buffs on the exhaust side and sanding rolls on intake. You won't get much more flow working the beginning of the ports, 80% of all flow Is in the bowls. Sharpen the divider and remove the casting flash and call it a day unless you have a flow bench. My last head I think ended up with an 7-8% increase on the intake.

Cutting the guides back can help but allow more valve flex and therefore isn't recommended on most street cars.

Who makes those? The bits that my dad gave me are no longer in business. I think it was Macro Tool in NY if I'm not mistaking.

Tinkered with it a little more today. Thank you viperlp01! I appreciate the help man



Still got some more shaping to do. I'm limited to the bits I have right now for the time being. But, progress nonetheless!

Still haven't touched the most important part ..

viperlp01 said:

Still haven't touched the most important part ..

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Your talking about the bowl work right?

agentorange313 said:

Your talking about the bowl work right?

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shhh!

Correction. I mean here? As you want to remove material here to lessen the curve the air has to take to enter the chamber.

Making the most gradual bend on the bottom radius. Then you'd wanna smooth out the area where the valve seat meets the head, and cut any protrusions around where the valve guide is correct? You can also cut some of the valve guide itself can't you?

Can we just turn the picture around the right way (rotating it or whatever, so we can see it easier)? Also, the part you have marked in red is know as "short side radius", just for future searches or so you know what to call it.

Never drop the floor, only make the radius smooth.

e85_4g63 said:

Can we just turn the picture around the right way (rotating it or whatever, so we can see it easier)? Also, the part you have marked in red is know as "short side radius", just for future searches or so you know what to call it.

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its right side up for australians, I say we rotate the other pictures

Ahh I'm sorry, I completely forgot the head was upside down in the pictures. So, for the parts outlined in the red, those are suppose to just be made smooth? I'm kind of lost at what you guys are talking about here :/

Not to come off as rude here, but if your not exactly sure what your doing, making it smooth is the best thing to do. Your trying to make the radius (the turn from the runner itself into the bowl area) a smooth transition.

e85_4g63 said:

Not to come off as rude here, but if your not exactly sure what your doing, making it smooth is the best thing to do. Your trying to make the radius (the turn from the runner itself into the bowl area) a smooth transition.

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You can completely ruin a head if you don't know what your doing.

leave the floor alone just make sure it's smooth. Bring the throat in the seats out to about 80% of the diameter of the valve head.


All I've ever done was blend the seats into the ports, remove casting flash, and spend time in the chamber smoothing things out. I made 650 on a little turbo with m head and mild cams. I don't think the porting matters all that much.

I agree with bastarddsm, I think our heads (1g more so perhaps then the 2g but none the less), flow a great amount of air from the factory. And in reality for 95% of us, the runners and such just need cleaned up and smoothed. Heavily ported heads are only really needed for 600+whp cars in my opinion.