Lets see some custom air ducting

GoCanes777 · May 22, 2012

For those of us that just cut away all the stock plastic used to move air to your radiator and or engine bay in general for a front mount or large set up what have you done to move or control air where it needs to go? I wouldnt say i have overheating problems but who wouldnt want cooler engine bay temps? I really want to steer-a-way from cutting a hole in my hood and i know heat shields do make a great defference, long story short lets see those creative minds !

scottyhops · May 23, 2012

this is what i did it helped keep engine temps down, also i have a wrapped down pipe and coated mani and turbo hot side

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Pipnorcali · May 23, 2012

I didn't cut any new holes and run 198-202
And it cost about 10 bucks, one on each side of the rad

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razrman8 · May 23, 2012

scottyhops said:
this is what i did it helped keep engine temps down, also i have a wrapped down pipe and coated mani and turbo hot side
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Does anyone know where the template is available for these? Or what is used to cover the edges of the holes?

rEclipserGST · May 23, 2012

My buddy has been asking for days when am I going to upload these. I guess it is time :thumb:

Wrapped the lower intercooler piping, external wg dump tube, custom heatshield (card board pieces for cutouts).

Next pic is the j-pipe wrapped as well.

Then full shot.

I plan to do the downpipe as well, I would need to buy more wrap though ><

Back to ducting, I went to lowes. They have this foam strip that is pretty thick. Air conditioning weather strip is what it is. $3 and some change. Lazy man ducting is what I call it. It seals the gaps inbetween the radiator and fmic as well. Cake work.

scottyhops · May 23, 2012

razrman8 said:
Does anyone know where the template is available for these? Or what is used to cover the edges of the holes?

mine is just cut out, you could use black construction paper and tape it on and see how you like it that trace it and cut it out. and are you talking about my lower bumper where the yellow fogs are? if so thats all custom aluminum that i made for 55w fog lights

ed1380 · May 23, 2012

What Ive done

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/bolt-tech/431539-ducting-fmic.html

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/152784576-post6.html

Archer Fabrications · May 23, 2012

Wouldent putting weather stripping do exactly the opposite of what you want it to do? i would think that by putting something on the sides of your radiator support you would be blocking fresh air from entering causing heat to be isolated INSIDE the bay.... Just my .02 i would never do something like that... you WANT air flow in there not to block it

plus, weather stripping has nothing to do with DUCTING, i would think OP is taking about; as some people have their intake coming out of their headlight to DUCT more cold air into the intake system.

this = good ducting. Except for the fact that its just a hole cut in the headlight and serves no function to draw in cold air to the intake directly, just blowing it on the filter.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/367955-2g-ram-air-headlight-3.html

LandoAWD · May 23, 2012

No. You force air through the FMIC, then the rad, then out.

razrman8 · May 23, 2012

scottyhops said:
mine is just cut out, you could use black construction paper and tape it on and see how you like it that trace it and cut it out. and are you talking about my lower bumper where the yellow fogs are? if so thats all custom aluminum that i made for 55w fog lights

What did you use to cut it out? Can you post an up close picture.

Archer Fabrications · May 23, 2012

razrman8 said:
What did you use to cut it out? Can you post an up close picture.

rotary tools such as a dremel will work great for cutting detailed holes in plastic things :cool:

LandoAWD · May 23, 2012

urbansmoker1 said:
Okay i guess i can see that...... but still what about the heat trapped in the bay that cant get dissipated because there are isolators around the fmic itself, what if your fmic heat soaks?

My understanding of the red talon up there would be that if you block off the sides you are i guess in a way directing air to pass through the FMIC and radiator; BUT even if you didn't have those weather stripping there it would have the exact same effect, only without the stripping you have EXTRA air entering AROUND the fmic on all sides and entering your bay probably giving you better IATs also. But what do i know...

If you have a completely sealed engine bay and just have ducting to your FMIC, you will still have a hot engine bay is what im getting at. MAYBE the fmic core air will be cooler. i would think that would be it though.

For even more simplistic terms: what do you thiink will get you a cooler engine bay temp (like op was lookin for) running a front bumper, or not running a bumper.

You're overthinking this. This doesn't change the efficiency of the core but DOES lower coolant temps as opposed to non-ducted. It's not the same effect with no boxing in/ducting in terms of coolant temps. You're now forcing the air to go through that would normally take the pasth of least resistance around, under, over, etc. This, in no way "completely seals" the bay...remember the BOTTOM of the engine, too.

NHerron · May 23, 2012

Alrighty here is my setup. It may look scary but I'm still proud. It does a great job and set me back like a dollar at my local Ace hardware. With the radiator fan on, it will suck a piece of paper to the FMIC. Car came with massive gaps (3.5-4inches) between FMIC and condenser and came close to overheating alot and now it lingers just below normal op temp in stop n go traffic. True I'm in Montana but it still gets hot around 75-85* average

96ETT · May 23, 2012

urbansmoker1 said:
Okay i guess i can see that...... but still what about the heat trapped in the bay that cant get dissipated because there are isolators around the fmic itself, what if your fmic heat soaks?

My understanding of the red talon up there would be that if you block off the sides you are i guess in a way directing air to pass through the FMIC and radiator; BUT even if you didn't have those weather stripping there it would have the exact same effect, only without the stripping you have EXTRA air entering AROUND the fmic on all sides and entering your bay probably giving you better IATs also. But what do i know...

If you have a completely sealed engine bay and just have ducting to your FMIC, you will still have a hot engine bay is what im getting at. MAYBE the fmic core air will be cooler. i would think that would be it though.

For even more simplistic terms: what do you thiink will get you a cooler engine bay temp (like op was lookin for) running a front bumper, or not running a bumper.

It is not the same as without the weather stripping, because without it the air can enter the fmic then exit before it goes through the radiator. Much more air leaves between the fmic and radiator than enters. All you are trying to do is provide a sealed path for air to be forced through the fmic, ac, radiator whatever else you have so that the most heat can be transferred to the air.

Bud92gsx · May 23, 2012

I'm doing the semi reverse hilter too.Gonna try going for that evo ducting look.

Cutting out the two things on the inside of the headlights to force air through a cooler, and the radiator.I might even do a duct to the intake pipe.To cool the pipe, dropping boost temps.

ed1380 · May 23, 2012

urbansmoker1 said:
Wouldent putting weather stripping do exactly the opposite of what you want it to do? i would think that by putting something on the sides of your radiator support you would be blocking fresh air from entering causing heat to be isolated INSIDE the bay.... Just my .02 i would never do something like that... you WANT air flow in there not to block it

plus, weather stripping has nothing to do with DUCTING, i would think OP is taking about; as some people have their intake coming out of their headlight to DUCT more cold air into the intake system.

this = good ducting. Except for the fact that its just a hole cut in the headlight and serves no function to draw in cold air to the intake directly, just blowing it on the filter.
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/367955-2g-ram-air-headlight-3.html

no. Any fluid takes the path of least resistance. It's easier for the air to go around the radiator than through it.

and a 3.5x12x24" core is hard to heat soak

This is the most I've seen done,
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/custom-fabrication/386716-my-ducted-radiator-setup-road-racing.html

LandoAWD · May 23, 2012

Bud92gsx said:
Cutting out the two things on the inside of the headlights to force air through a cooler, and the radiator.

Explain. As your rad is between your headlights, I'm very interested in this concept. Headlight ducting (or simple removal) on the filter side is fine, however.

Bud92gsx · May 23, 2012

Kris on the 1gs you have 1ga and 1gb right.Well the 1ga talon has the open middle peice, which allows air to flow through.The 1ga eclipse is just a solid plastic peice that blocks airflow.

The 1gb's.Both have the headlights on the outside.But in the middle between them you have a blocked of section, and then in the center is where your emblem sits.

So My plan is to cut out the two outer sections.Allowing for air to again pass through and cool the engine bay.Mine has a cooler behind the left section.Then there is some sheet metal that the hood latch is connected too.Hidden by the center part, holding the emblem.But a good chunk of this sheet metal also doesn't do anything,unles it's there for latch support.

I Tried doing a MS paint thing to show my plan.But that looks like absolute crap,And I would be ashamed to post it.

LandoAWD · May 23, 2012

I follow all of that, just not how it relates to what I quoted...

Bud92gsx · May 23, 2012

Well the more air passing through you Radiator the better right.

I have not figured out how I will duct for the intake pipe yet.Any suggestions would help actually.

That doesn't answer your quoted text.Umm so Unless I duct another way for the filter side,I'm not sure how that will turn out.

My manifold,heatsheild,,hotside,and o2 are all heat coated.So that might help, but who knows.

Archer Fabrications · May 23, 2012

LandoAWD said:
You're overthinking this. This doesn't change the efficiency of the core but DOES lower coolant temps as opposed to non-ducted. It's not the same effect with no boxing in/ducting in terms of coolant temps. You're now forcing the air to go through that would normally take the pasth of least resistance around, under, over, etc. This, in no way "completely seals" the bay...remember the BOTTOM of the engine, too.

no i know its not a completely sealed engine... but think of this like IF it was... like BMWs for instance

LandoAWD · May 23, 2012

We've gone from practical DSM applications to hypotheticals, I see.

LandoAWD · May 23, 2012

urbansmoker1 said:
no one said anything about fluid, were talking about air flow here.

Tell me you're kidding... :pray:

LandoAWD · May 23, 2012

urbansmoker1 said:
were talking about air ducting are we not? yeah i know there is fluid in the radiator to cool... but wtf are you talking about? saying air is like liquid in the fact it takes the path of least resistance? i dont recall reading anything about fluids in this thread man

You weren't kidding.
Since I'm in a "Giving Tree" sort of mood, and physics may not be your thing: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Fluid_dynamics

Bud92gsx said:
They don't make radiators, or oil coolers for a reason.We all need to delete that crap then.

The hell? We only offer one shade of red, currently.

WES_393 · May 23, 2012

^ Ducting lowers engine bay temps as well. Like mentioned quite a few times before, the ducting forces the air to pass trough the radiator (and the engine behind it) rather than trying to go around. When the air can't flow, the pressure builds up and you end up with an air dam made of air. Ducting works for lowering coolant temps as well as helping to lower engine bay temps. There isn't multiple kinds of "ducting", the overall goal is still the same: Lower temps. Whether it be intake, coolant, or overall engine bay temps, ducting reduces them. That is (or was) the goal of this thread.

BTW- A "fluid", in terms of Physics, is a liquid or a gas. In this discussion, the "fluid" is air passing through the FMIC and radiator. Nobody said anything about radiator "fluid" as it's correct name is coolant.

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Lets see some custom air ducting

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