So the lines that pass thru the sway bar bushings have rusted thru. I need to replace both lines that cross the rack. I went to my local mitsu dealer and they want almost $100 for both lines and I was wondering if anyone knows where I can get the following part numbers for at most $50. They are just lines with a few fittings. Definitely not worth $100 in my book.

mb501433 list price: 49.07
mb501434 list price: 46.37

I checked JNZ's catalog and they want 38.03 and 35.94 respectively. Still too much. Any insight would be helpful.

I went to autozone and got some 3/8" fuel line and bent my own. I used the old fittings by carfully taking them off and cleaning them up. Costed me less than $10 for all of it and she never leaked not once.

i would do the same the dealer is always expensive i learned a lot of items i can doesnt have to be oem and most of it isnt, in the many years of working on dsms. My first dsm wasnt repaired with oem parts, just the ones u only get from there like tiiming tensioner coil pack and a few sensors.

is it necessary to drop the rack out to replace them? it looks like the only fitting that is easy to get to is the one in the middle. Any help on how to get at them is awesome. Thanks for the info so far!

The rack has to come out. You dont have to mess with the allignement settings or anything like that so you dont have to worry about that. One bolt on the steering linkage, 2 brackets on the bottom, 2 tie rod arm ends. Be carful not to destroy the boots on them thow. Easy to remove and install. Once installed make shure you start the engine and add power steering fluid as needed after turning the wheels left and right while running to get the fluid threw the system and remove all the air from the system.

Make shure you place the propper connections on the new lines in the right place. The 3/8" steel fuel line works great but the fittings dont fit the the DSM rack. You will need to re-use the line fittings from the old line on your rack that is leaking. Take a drill and drill bit to carfully remove any rust welded lines that tend to clogg the fittings and make it to small to pass the new steel line threw. I don't know what size drill bit I used I just grabbed a bit out of my set of 120 bits that was the closes size of the steel line its self.

*WARNING*
Do not drill from the flared side of the fitting. Only drill from the head of the fitting in a straight and careful manner. Use double flares only. A single flare will break and or get pinched tight enough to start leaking. No automotive shop or manufacturer reccomends using a single flare on a high pressure line like this.

You have an AWD. Sorry I didnt look at that first.

You will need to put something in front of the front tires, lock it in gear, lift the rear end and pull the drive shaft out of the transfercase. Put a clean rag in the hole on the transfercase to prevent anything from getting in there. By lowering the car in the front it stops the transfercase fluid from leaking out of the rear of the transfercase. The transfercase might have to be removed from the car as well. I'm not saying it does because I'm going by memory right now from 2 years ago.

Here is the rack from my 1990 GS-t I did with 3/8" steel fuel line.

awesome dude. Thank you. yea i think i might have to take off the transfer case and maybe the downpipe. Idk. Thank you so much for the help. I'll have to get some 3/8 fuel line. I have a double flaring tool so that should be no problem. I'm just going to make the lines. Thanks for the help!

No problem dude! Any more help you might need just ask and it shall be answered.

Sorry for the long speech. I tried shortening it without leaving anything important out that I could remember. I put the pictures in there to give a visual of what to expect and where the lines go. I cleaned mine up with a brass wire wheel and a drill, coated it with come spray on bedliner to make her look nice again.

The rack can be removed by sliding it out from the side of the car. We had to do it with a few cars that way and it worked. Also be careful with the steel line that bolts to the neck by the steering linkage. Thats a steel line as well. It can be rusted so saturate it with some PB Blaster to make it easy and to avoid breaking or weakening the line from twisting it.

I bent my tubing by hand due to lack of tubbing bender tool . Make sure the line is spaced away from the rack's body. I used a few short pieces of rubber fuel line and slid it on the tubing before making the last bend. It works great and looks clean when cut into even and straight pieces.