what would i have to do to put a 1st/g turbo on a 2/g?

you need 2g install kit or rotate.

Why settle for 14b? If you want a Mitsu turbo go 16g at least. Same or less money. If you buy a 14b used how fresh is going to be?

Scott 91 GSX

You seriously dont want to settle for a 14b. Just get a 16g atleast

hmmm, 14b $130 installed.
16G, $7-800 or so. I like my 14B

You will need a J pipe because the 14B exits the opposite direction of a T25.

or reuse our stock licp but extending the section between the elbows with exhuast tubing

the only way you can even remotely begin to compare a 14 to a 16 is if they were both selling for the same price! only then could you say the 16 is the way to go. But when you can pick up a 14 for less than $150 and the 16 for over $500 how the hell can you even begin to fairly compare the two???????

geez, you would think after all this time a decision like this would be a no brainer but alas its not. I forsee this question popping up on many other DSM boards for years to come, !

the 14B is a great turbo! will it smoke the crap outta your T25? You better believe it! does it compare to the 16G? Not really but then again how much do you want to spend?

Here's a nice bonus. Even IF you go w/ a 14B you still have the option of slapping 16G cartridge down the road. Wow, hows that for a deal breaker?

WOW $130 Installed? How did you do that? I thought it was $300.00 for an install kit.

*I have an extra 14b, but I don't have the money for the $300.00 install kit.

I thought these were my options:
1.)$300 -> Install Kit, put on my old 14b.
2.)$300 + $500 -> Install Kit, ported cliped Big 16G(I got hook up)
3.)$750 + $95 -> FP Big28, port

Thanx,
DeathBeast - 1993 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

Hey deathbeast wanna sell the turbo? (14b)

Originally posted by DeathBeast
WOW $130 Installed? How did you do that? I thought it was $300.00 for an install kit.

*I have an extra 14b, but I don't have the money for the $300.00 install kit.

I thought these were my options:
1.)$300 -> Install Kit, put on my old 14b.
2.)$300 + $500 -> Install Kit, ported cliped Big 16G(I got hook up)
3.)$750 + $95 -> FP Big28, port

Thanx,
DeathBeast - 1993 Eagle Talon TSi AWD

Click to expand...

with a little ingenuity, my friend.
14b-$100
homebrew install kit-$30
telling people you put the turbo on yourself for 1/10 of the price of an install kit- priceless

I installed a dozen 14b's on 2G's last winter. It's *easy*.

Typical good 14b turbo is $100 ish
No install kit needed!!! (Install "kits" are over rated big time.)
J pipe from trader$35
SS oil feed line from RRE $30 or so.
Install fee to me. $200

That's it. Most cars drop a full second in the 1/4 just from switching from the T25 to a 14b. IMO it's a very good bang for the buck.

hell, skip the J-pipe make your own from the stock licp-free.
piece together your own feed line from half the 14b line and half the t25 line-<$5
do the work yourself-free and you get the pride.

So on the 2G Install kit you're paying like $235.00 for some metal gaskets and a few bolts?



-What are the funny looking screws on the bottom left?
-The SS oil line will be able to bend than the one in this pic, and eaiser to install right?

Thanx,
DeathBeast

Pretty much.

How I do it:

Use the water lines from the T25, bend them creatively, get some 5/8" heater hose as well, formed factory hoses will not work any longer.

Slot the holes in the turbo side of the oil return line, reuse it.

I highly recommend a ss braided oil line. Seen a couple of instances of a pinched 1G style hard line take out a turbo. SS line is cheap and much easier to work with.

New stock gaskets.
Used/cheap J pipe.
Hack up some stuff for the lower pipe.

I used new new ex. mani to turbo gasket (left the mani on the car).

I used one water line off of the t25 and one off the 14b and was able to reuse the stock rubber lines.

same for oil return.

your choice on the oil feed. I must've missed the $30 ss line, I wasn't going to pay $55 to make sure I don't ruin a $100 turbo.

for my "j-pipe", I cut the stock licp in b/w the 2 elbows and lengthened it with 10" of 2" I.D. exhaust tubing that I got from midas for free (they welded a bead on for free as well) and just bolted it up to the stock 14b outlet.

so as you can see others have done it easily without an install kit and had no probs. ///soapbox on (not directed to anyone in particular, just all of the sheep that wander through life without a single thought in their head)///
Just look at what you have and figure what you need to get what you want. Use the gray mass up top instead of paying some monkey $500+ to put on what you can easily do yourself
///soap box off///

good stuff guys!

discussions like this one (swapping ideas and observations with others) are the reasons I love this board

If your going to throw the 14b on a 2g, what parts can u still use from the t-25 setup? I know u would have to get a new oil feed line, but do you need to get a new oil return one? Why cant u use the 2h oil return?

read the posts above yours. you just asked what this entire thread was answering...

hay guys, i'm installing a 14B i have into my 2G this week. i was just about to get the RRE 'hacker' install kit untill i saw this.

my 14B has all the 1G lines (water/oil feed/return), can i reuse these so i don't have to bend the T25 lines? i want a SS oil feed no matter what, i don't get good oil pressure and i'd rather get it right after the filter (its cleanest here, and your turbo will be on of the first things to get decent oil pressure)

Check this out .. oil supply picture!

Anyways, i know i need the J pipe and L pipe (trader) also. everything else can be reused (washers, bolts, gaskets)?

doesn't the RRE kit come with a larger 7cm^2 gasket so you can get better flow by porting the step off?

i don't think the hacker tweaker kit is such a bad deal? only $195, and you get a 2.25 LICP out of it with a nice SS line... plus all the gaskets to port things. but knowing that i have all the 1G lines made me wonder if i needed it...

one more concern, boost creep i have a 2.5" DP, 2.5" test pipe, and 3" extreme cat back w/ resonator. i will port the wastegate out and o2 housing im gonna grind out good. will that be enough?

should i get the 34mm wastegate from TRE and have a local shop weld it on? or is the 14B just not worth it?

(PS i got a Die grinder and carbide bits off ebay for under 30 bucks, so im doing all the porting my self for free, i would port the old thing if i had to pay)

anyone get bad boost creep with the 14B ?

I always suggest the 34mm flapper mod and some portwork, even on a 14b install. You do not need to have it welded, all you do is cut the old one off, then use a punch and a hammer to mushroom the top of the new flapper so it doesn't come out. Be sure to port the wastegate hole all the way through, and almost the full diameter of the flapper. It takes some time to do properly.

no welding ? excellent, then i will for sure get the 34mm valve, cause i don't wanna deal with the creep on the street (not to mention my high milage! )

not sure what mushrooming the valve is, but i'll ask about it once i get the valve and can see for my self what i need to do.

thanks!

Originally posted by Silver2GST

i don't think the hacker tweaker kit is such a bad deal? only $195, and you get a 2.25 LICP out of it with a nice SS line... plus all the gaskets to port things. but knowing that i have all the 1G lines made me wonder if i needed it...

Click to expand...

a difference of opinion...i put mine on for $25 and wouldn't pay anything more after doing it.