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Turn Signal Help

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Lostandfoundx

Probationary Member
10
0
Nov 13, 2002
Oneida,
My right front turn signal isn't working. The rear right blinks fast. the dash signal doesn't turn on at all. All the bulbs are fine. No broken wires. what the hell is going on with it? Relay maybe?
 
Mine car does the same, the front right blinker would work sometimes and somethimes not. I replaced the bulb and the same problem persists. I don't know what to do anymore.
 
Lamps blink fast when one is not working... for whatever reason. Put the right bulb in the left side and vica-versa just to double check that the bulb is not the problem. If there is still no right lamp lit inspect the socket for crud. Try jiggling/twisting/shaking/swearing at the bulb while the turn signal lever is on. Any action??
It's a simple circuit but I don't know how the wiring runs.
Does anybody in post-land know??
 
Yeah, my left turn signal has the same stupid problem. It would hyper flash and sometimes even go back to normal, but lately, it stays on hyper flash. Funny thing, all the bulbs seem to be working... just flashing quickly. I replace the bulb, nothing... I've tried this electrical cream, worked for a while, now nothing... I could still tryin to see for any crap in the actual socket, but this is getting annoying.

i dont wanna shell out money for a new socket.....i'm sure it's more expensive than I am willing to pay. :(
:dsm:
 
ya know whats pretty sad....i called up 3 Mitsubishi dealers in my area, and not a single technician knows whats going on. They want me to bring my car to them....heeeelllllzzzz naaahhh....the last time a dealer seen my car was when i was driving it off the lot. I think im just gonna check through the whole wiring harness. Start from the bulb and work my way with a lead test. I cut the socket off...even with the socket off there is no power going to it. So it could be something in deep. I don't know im stumped but its the only thing i can think of. If anyone has any diagrams or any info about the wiring system in a 97-99 Eclipse, it would be greatly appreciated.
 
replace your signal relay, most of the time this is what causes what your talking about....but usually on both sides, note< usually.....


also, make sure you are using the recommended bulbs for both sides.
 
I agree about using the right bulbs. I purposely used the wrong bulbs on my car to get the hyperflash effect, so from the outside, it looks like all the bulbs are working fine. So like I've said before, just change the bulbs, or switch all the bulbs from on side of the car to the other, and see if the problem switches over.
 
ive seen them go for heady duty ones for like 15.00 at schmucks or a local auto parts store, thats the most. and they are usually a few wires off and a few on, not all that hard to change out.
 
Check the bulbs. Most of your wiring harness problems show up while still under warranty unless there's been critters in the car. Check to make sure ALL of the bulbs are the right ones. Changing out one 3057 bulb for a 3157 can cause electrical problems. Each bulb is rated at a certain brightness but also that equates to resistence. If the resistance is too high it will cause the circuit not to work properly. Check for water in the lenses and the proper bulbs for the application. Check parking lamps as well as brake lamps and remember that there is more than just one bulb for the rear stop lamps.
 
I think----- The front and rear lamps are connected in common; that is.. left front to left rear, and right front to right rear. If the rear lamp lights but the front does not, then the voltage is being lost somewhere in the wiring. When the hazards are turned on, a connection is made between the left and right, so all four corners of the car blink together. Again, there is NOT an independent relay or switch or whatever just for the right front lamp... so it must be a wiring problem... but that's just what I think. Mitsu may think differently!!

Maybe Doug99RS could find out for sure since he's a tech.

Way back in Post 1 you said "the dash signal doesn't turn on at all". Do you mean that the right arrow bulb doesn't light?... or both left and right arrows?... or do they light but don't blink? What?

And-- please update your profile so that your car stats show in the left pane. I didn't know what year car we were all talking about until Post 10.
 
Okay, I am going to attempt to bring this thread back to life for a while.

As was discussed earlier about this light bulb problem...I'm still having it. It is the rear, left turn signal... It is NOT the bulb...

Here's the symptoms:
*new bulb in...works fine.....for about a month at best.
*left signal starts it's hyper flashing bs again.
*magically, it works normal again at random times
*hyper flashes again
*eventually goes out all together.

It is the right bulb... there has to be something with the wiring or power going through. Any semi-easy tests I can do to see if my wires/socket have gone bad or there's a bad connection somehow?

I'd appreciate any good advice to finally fix this frustrating problem.
:dsm:
 
This may be your problem: 1157 dual-filament bulbs have staggered tits on the bayonet, because the two filaments are different wattage. If you get them in "backward", they won't fully seat, and often short across both contacts with one filament, causing all manner of odd reaction. Check all four of yours.
 

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General stuff: A flasher unit wants to "see" the correct load for that particular style flasher. If it is a 2 bulb flasher [for instance], the unit will flash, as you say - hyperfast, if the load is too little [one of the bulbs not lighting]. This is designed in on purpose, to let the driver know that a bulb is not lighting. Why is the bulb not lit?... could be several reasons. The usual causes are >bad bulb, >bad socket, >bad wire. For whatever reason... if one bulb is out, you get hyperflash! Now, troubleshooting the thing may not be so easy, especially if the damn thing works sometimes. I'd start by grabbing the bulb and socket [when the bulb is in its 'not working' mood] and shake it around, looking for any signs of life [cruddy socket, intermittent wire, etc.]. Remember- you're looking for an 'open' and not a 'short'. Next I'd put a voltmeter to the wires and read if 12 volts is being applied [You can experiment with the other side to see what readings you should get with a properly working turn signal]. If the meter shows zero volts, then there is an intermittent connection somewhere. It could be a rotted wire, for instance. If the voltage is correct [same as the working side] when suspect a crappy socket. Don't rule out a bad return wire [ground, I think- not sure though]. Probably if that were the case then you'd read 12 volts on BOTH wires. . . . Confusing, right?
So..... that's how I'd start! Of course, it wouldn't hurt to have an electrical wiz kid next to you!
GOOD LUCK. I hope that this helps you out a bit. The trick with any troubleshooting is to be logical, step-by-step, and compare results to another circuit that is known to be working correctly!!!
PHEEWWWWWWWW!!:thumb:
 
Using the Picture Defiant posted, make sure that there's no corrosion on the copper part of the bulb. Also make sure that there is no corrosion on the socket side. I've seen quite a few cars come in that had bulb problems similar to this. The first part of the customer's problem was the wrong bulbs in use. I've seen single tit bulbs in place where double tit bulbs like the 1157 bulb goes. The second part was that the bulb and socket had corrosion on it. Back to that picture the tits are the point where current comes in to the filament. The copper is the grounding side where the current returns back to the chassis. If there's to much corrosion then the bulb will not illuminate due to no ground, OR you may have enough of a ground source for ONE filament but not BOTH.

Swap the wiring from driver's side tail lamps with the passenger side tail lamps. See if your problem does not follow the swap.

I really doubt this problem is a turn signal flasher, relay, or turn signal switch. It's more than likely going to be bulb selection of corrosion on the sockets.
Doug
 
Alright...thanks a lot for the advice guys...

I feel kinda dumb but at the same time, it's not really my fault..

I went to AutoZone to get more bulbs.. well, I kept in mind the 1157 like you guys said, but I wanted to see what the lil catalog said.

Well, when I looked it up it said to use 2057 for the rear blinker and if I remember right 1157 for front ones.... so basically they say backwards than you.

Anyways, I go look at both.... the 1157s & 2057s look identical so I guess the difference is the volts or something as mentioned? I got the 1157 and put it in..works fine so far. We'll see... if not, I"ll bring this thread to life once again I suppose.
 
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