Seriously you should take the timing belt off and try again. And since your balanceshaft belt is missing teeth you need to replace it as well.

I haven't taken the old belts off yet, this is what I'm starting with. I plan on replacing all the belts and recommended parts in the FAQ. sheet. I'm just wondering if I should put the motor at TDC,remove the timing bellt, align the cams and install the new belt.

thanks

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html

http://www.vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-2G.html

does the alignment look right in the bottom picture? if it is that's how I'll align it when I replace the belt.

thanks

mjhicks said:

does the alignment look right in the bottom picture? if it is that's how I'll align it when I replace the belt.

thanks

Click to expand...

No, it doesn't. It should look like this on 1990-1992 models

Make sure you don't have the "timing plate" for the crank shaft sprocket on backwards.... I think that can mess things up... but actually after thinking about it, forward or backward wouldn't the timing mark be the same on the crank shaft plate? Also, make sure you have your exh sprocket on the exh side and the intake on the intake side... it doesn't look like you've got it switched around though.

bling5tatus said:

Make sure you don't have the "timing plate" for the crank shaft sprocket on backwards.... I think that can mess things up... but actually after thinking about it, forward or backward wouldn't the timing mark be the same on the crank shaft plate? Also, make sure you have your exh sprocket on the exh side and the intake on the intake side... it doesn't look like you've got it switched around though.

Click to expand...

No, the plate for the crank shaft mark will only work one way.

I think somebody was reckless when they either put that engine together or when they changed some thing.

Don't start that engine whatever you do!

Put the engine at TDC and go from there. I think it's within 6 rotations that the oil pump will go to it's pointer, until you hit that magic one it will always be off. The cam gears look out of time, which is something you're going to have to accept until you set the timing yourself.

Just a question, if the cams on mine are a little off not even teeth but a very very small amount thats ok right? and I agree the bottom is wayyy off!

No, it is not ok to be a tooth or couple off. It ####s up your compression.... or bends valves if you're enough teeth off.

If you care about that 6 Bolt suck it up, bite the bullet & do the BSE NOW - Those teeth didn;t just FALL off the BS Belt.

You can either take the head off and align your camshaft and oil pump.
Or the less recomended way.Take off your timing belt. Bring your #1 piston to tdc.
Now back it off a bit. Turn your cam pullys until the are lined up(turn them theway that is shortes to alighn them).If you feel any resistance, stop.Back your pistons off some more and try again.
Now get your oil pump in order as well.
If you do this correct it will work.I have done it before in an emergency.
I can not be held accountable if you dont do it correct.

Good time to throw a bse kit in.

I agree with all the advice but the baffling part is the engine has been running this way and this is the way the timing marks looked when I removed the timing belt covers . It seems like it would be running like crap. Anyway I think I'll follow the advice and set the engine To TDC and align the intake and exhaust cams. I haven't looked at the BSE kit yet but that sounds like a good option also.
I appreciate the help and info.
Mark

Mine had been timed 3 teeth off, and the rear balance shaft (not all of us are as rabid about them as Buck) was 180° out of phase. Thank you, Discovery Bay Mitsubishi.

That' good to hear, that gives me a better feeling about taking the old belt off and starting on repairs.

Well if I had a POS 7 Bolt like Defiant I'd probably leave the BS Shafts in too...

A really handy tip for setting the timing belt tension is if you are
putting a new hydraulic tensioner on leave the pin in until you
tighten the tensioner pulley, ALSO when you can slip the Pin in The Tensioner is in the CORRECT position so you can check Tension Setting WITH THE PIN.

& Here's my 2 cents worth on TB Timing & Tensioning...

I just bought some 8MM ALLTHREAD at a Hardware Store & double nutted 2 Nuts at the end for a Tool.

- If you were to watch what the TB does when tensioned you'd see that the TB literally "rolls" into Time as the Tensioner takes out the Slack at the proper point & pulls slack out of the front side of the TB loop.

- Set Sprockets & Balance Shafts per - http://vfaq.com/mods/timingbelt-1G.html - EXCEPT....

- It MAY be necessary to BIAS = Mis-Time Exhaust Cam Sprocket ONE Tooth Clockwise - Belt Tensioning process will roll it back into time.

-Don't forget to apply Soft Loctite or RTV to Tensioner Fasteners & apply Final Torque.

-Run ALLTHREAD Tool in until Tensioner Arm Bottoms against Tensioner Rod - PULL GRENADE PIN - Then run ALLTHREAD tool in until Tensioner Arm just Bottoms against Tensioner Body.

-Basically you preload the Eccentric Tension Pulley enough to achieve the correct Gap between Tension Arm & Tensioner Body - SO...

-PRE-LOAD the Eccentric Tension Pulley & snug Pulley Bolt (I used soft Loctite on this Bolt too) - My favorite Tool to apply the Load on the Pulley is a long good quality Square Shanked Screwdriver that lays on one of the Water Pump Bolt Heads nicely for leverage.

-Back off ALLTHREAD TOOL a few Turns thus letting the Tensioner FULLY Tension the T/Belt - but you can leave ALLTHREAD TOOL in place.

- Check Belt Timing Marks - This is where you may see that you have to regroup on initial Timing Belt installation & Bias the Belt as I said at First - Note that of course only every OTHER time Crank Timing Marks line up wil Cam Sprocket Dowels be Up.

- Spin Crank 6 Turns so Timing Belt can take it's initial SEAT in Sprocket Grooves.

- Check Tension setting by trying to reinsert Grenade Pin in Tensioner & / or check gap size with Drill Bit.

- If gap is too large you have UNDER TENSIONED BELT, run ALLTHREAD Tool back in to FULLY depress Tensioner and put MORE PRE-LOAD under Tensioner Pulley with long Screwdriver & SIMULTANEOUSLY loosen Pulley Bolt putting more Tension on Belt, & then Snug up Pulley Bolt while applying Load.

-Back off ALLTHREAD TOOL a few Turns thus letting the Tensioner FULLY Tension the T/Belt - but you can leave ALLTHREAD TOOL in place backed off & not touching Tensioner.

- Check Tension setting by trying to reinsert Grenade Pin in Tensioner & / or check gap size with Drill Bit.

- If Grenade Pin checks Sat apply Final Torque to Tension Pulley Bolt & RECHECK TENSION SETTING .

- If Gap is too small you have OVER-TENSIONED Belt - Back off Tension Pulley Pre-Load a little & RECHECK TENSION SETTING.

- Install just enuff Belts & Pulleys to run Water Pump - attach Battery charger & run Motor with NO Timing Covers & no Alternator - you can leave ALLTHREAD TOOL backed off & of course not touching Tensioner while you do this.

- Immediately when you get it running Check Oil Pressure & then Check for Coolant & Oil Leaks - Check your new Water Pump & Water Pump O Ring, etc, etc... Be ready to Reset Base Timing & Base Idle as it comes up to Full Running Temp - Start off with CAS at middle of adjustment if you don't know where it was.

- After a good long idle or 2 re-check Tension with Grenade Pin, Remove ALLTHREAD tool & Button up Covers if all is SAT - Expect to see one good stretch as Belt heats up & "sets" in the Pulleys & hence TB may need one good re-setting after initial idle.

Word to the wise. Measure any drillbit you use as I had 2 - 5/32"
drillbits and they varied in thickness by almost a millimeter. When
your working with a gap tolerance that is only 0.7mm wide a 1mm error is unacceptable. I picked the one that was closest and used that one.

Buck,
Thanks for the detailed information, you answered half a dozen questions and now I have a good idea of what is going to happen when I start to apply tension to the TB. I think I'm going to wait until Saturday to start the job, that way I'll have all the parts and the whole weekend to play with it and time to test it out.

Thanks again