Unfortunately these are likely some of the quality issue that slide past when purchasing from Ebay. I'm glad you posted though so others can get an idea what to look for.

I have a e3b16g I bought from sbr and it had the typical creep problems you mentioned but not any actuator issue. You may think about picking up a new wastgate arm to replace the one you have. I think all the 16g/14b arm are the same (someone correct me if I'm wrong). I'm sure you could find one for cheap; I may even have one off an old burned out 14b somewhere.

You could always go externally gated... Good luck

go external!

You could try moving the can around on it's bracket and seeing if that helps at all. The other option is to see if you can't move the WG arm further in, then it will take less actuator movement to open it the full amount.

Hm. Yea, I was just tweaking around with it as it just got to me and I knew what to look for because I read up on them and their deficiencies before buying one. That aside, it shouldn't be a big problem. I just wanted to keep my shiny actuator. And from what I read from MrPeeps thread about fixing this problem, he said their the same for the 14b too. I'm assuming they should be able to be swapped, so I'll just snag the old dirty one off of it and try it out. Anyway, thanks a lot! When this sucker gets screaming I'll let you know what's good and what's bad with the turbo. So far, wastegate aside, it looks worthwhile. But only long-term testing will tell. This car will also be my daily driver too, so it won't be one of those, "I drove with my ebay 16g for 4,000 miles and it's great so far! I've had it for two years!" It'll be more like, "I drove 6,000 miles in 6 months and it's ...."

Thanks guys.

I've had a lot of experience with this issue from customers bringing their cars to my shop complaining of boost creep after an eBay EvoIII install. Here's the problem, and the solution:

You'll see in this photo of a brand new eBay knockoff 16G that even though the flapper is 34mm, the hole itself measures about 22mm I.D.-


The only solution is to port the hole to utilize the entire area of the flapper-


I've done this numerous times, and it always works perfectly in the end!

Also, make sure the wastegate actuator itself isn't adjusted too tightly. I've found on more than one occasion that the threaded adjuster was wound too tightly to allow full travel of the flapper.

There should be just enough tension to hold the flapper against the housing softly....any more tension and there will be a delay in the opening of the wastegate.

Yea, that's how it was when I got it. It was so tight that it wouldn't even move the flapper. But I was thinking of that too. I noticed the hole was WAY smaller than the flapper. Oh well. Sounds good, guess that's what I'll do. Thanks for the advice!

Here's another little secret about getting increased longevity from an eBay EvoIII....I've found the weak links, and if you fix them you're guaranteed to have a long-lasting turbo.

About 99% of the time, when an eBay EvoIII gets shaft play, it's the up/down play- not in/out....meaning that the journal bearings are shot. Here's why:

When many of the eBay vendors began having issues with the turbine shafts breaking on the knockoff EvoIII's they had the manufacturer beef up the thickness of the shaft because whatever steel they were using is not nearly as strong as the steel that an MHI 16G turbine uses. By making the shaft thicker and not increasing the size of the journal in the CHRA, the manufacturer was forced to make the journal bearings thinner and much weaker.

The result is that a standard Mitsu rebuild kit will not repair an eBay turbo....you actually need to use Garrett journal bearings from any T3 parts kit. The Garrett T3 bearings are the same spec and are made out of BRONZE instead of the BRASS journal bearings that a chinese knockoff EvoIII comes with!

With this in mind....if you were to buy an eBay knockoff EvoIII brand new, disassemble it and replace the journal bearings with Genuine Garrett bearings, port the wastegate hole, and make sure the wastegate actuator is adjusted properly, there's a good chance it will last a VERY long time!

Hm. Cool. When I replace the bearings... is it just a take apart and slap back together or am I going to have to do something to the turbo to make sure it goes back together properly? I hear people talking about balancing them, but I'm not entirely sure what that is. Also, how do I take it apart? Just undo the little coupler in between the compressor and the actual turbine? How much do these bearings generally cost? Thanks again!

Oh, and I'm going out to get the bits to port my flapper hole now. Should I worry about porting the actual wastegate housing-area, or will the flapper hole be fine?

Man, what a job! , my first time using a dremel, let alone porting something made of cast iron, and I think I did pretty well! That's MY opinion though. Hahah.

Here's what I started with, ended up with (i'm so proud!), and the good seal! Let me know how I did! Besides trying my best to round it out, do you think I should try and port it a little more? I'm gonna try and dig out some more of the side closest to the flapper, but it's hard and a pain in the ass. All in all, I think it's done quite well for a $10 bit where 1/3 of it broke off about 2 hours into the job. Only took me 2.5 hours so far too. Lemme know fi it's gonna be sufficient.

Final product. I'm satisfied with it. I think I could push a few areas closer, but being a noob at this I'm not going to because I'm afraid it won't seal and I'm not that accurate when shaving off little amounts. I think this will work very well. Now I just need to know if I can pull this sucker apart and put in those bearings myself without getting it balanced? If not, how much does that sorta thing generally run? The bearings are on e-bay forl ike 14.99 and 5 bucks shipped, so a 10 dollar dremel bit and a 20 dollar set of bearings to make this sucker run right is well worth it, if you ask me.

The finished product!

Mark the position of the compressor wheel's alignment on the turbine shaft if you decide to remove it. The nut on the compressor wheel takes a 12-point 10mm socket and is left-hand threaded. There's a well-illustrated article on Mitsu turbo disassembly at:

http://vfaq.com/mods/Turbo-rebuild.html

Make sure you buy Genuine Garrett bronze journal bearings....if you buy them from eBay, there's a good chance you will get the same Chinese bearings that came in the turbo!

Bronze is a much darker metal than brass. If I were at home this weekend, I would post pics of the differences.

Good port-job by the way....totally amateur, but effective

You said you've redone knockoff 16g's for customers and replaced those bearings. Can you tell me where you bought them? I'm having trouble finding them and I don't wanna buy e-Bay ones just `cause you mentioned they might be knock offs too and I can't tell. I wanna attempt this because after having just ported my turbo the shaft isn't as solid as before. It's by no means loose, but I can feel like it's getting loose. Plus, I have the time to do all this 'cause it won't be going on my car for awhile. I'm still waiting on my 6-bolt to get here and be installed.

Thanks.


And just to run it past you guys... has anyone ever bought these? How can I identify if they are authentic?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Garr...007QQitemZ170148793516QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW

is this the usual going price? Thanks

Sometimes a listing will have "bronze" right in the title:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/T3-T...006QQitemZ160156196672QQrdZ1QQsspagenameZWDVW
...but to me, those bearings in the pics are awfully yellow to be considered Bronze.

Hook up with eBay seller(s) G-Pop Shop and/or Turbos 'R Us; shoot them a message saying you're in need of Bronze T3 Journal Bearings, I'm sure they'd be glad to help you out. If you buy from one of these guys, you won't get ripped off.

About while ago I bought a whole sleeve (10) of Bronze T3 Journal bearings from one of the two vendors for around $50, so I'm sure a set of (2) wouldn't cost much.

Sounds good! Thanks! And I'm gonna go ahead and pull this sucker apart here soon. Probably the same day I order the bearings (hopefully tonight) so that I can clean out any miscellaneous shavings that might've gotten in there from when I ported that wastegate. Plus, I wanna be able to post picture.

So, when marking the compressor and all that- basically, I'm just making a line that starts on my compressor and ends on the center cartridge so I know where to line it back up to? Should I do this for the turbine side too? I was thinking of making about 3 to try and get it lined up a little more accurately. I wanna do this right because that article mentioned a turbo grenading if it wasn't properly lined back up. I still planned to have it balanced afterwards! Thanks for the info though!

Just mark the compressor wheel's orientation on the turbine shaft BEFORE you take the nut off the compressor side. Once you take off the nut, the compressor wheel can spin freely on the turbine shaft and therefore the clock position of the compressor wheel could be off and ruin the balance.

There is no need to pay to have it rebalanced....the rotating assembly should be balanced from the factory.

It's a learning experience, but it's a lot of fun once you do it. I've been rebuilding turbos for quite a while now, and I've probably rebuilt over 200 at this point- only one has come back because of a bent turbine shaft that went unnoticed (not really the fault of my labor.)

I think I understand now. Currently, there is a small, grey line that is running off the compressor infront of one of the fins. This little line extends over the bolt and just on to the top of the shaft past the nut. Is that the line you're talking about? I'd take a picture but the line is very light color and hard to see even with my eye. So, I should just darken it in and use that as a reference?

ever get this thing apart?