The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

AMS GT37R (PT67R dbb) T3 or T4 hotside?

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

jkimes

15+ Year Contributor
250
3
Aug 25, 2004
Fayetteville, Arkansas
My journal bearing scm6176 has quite a bit of blow-by and is not making the kind of power I would like from my 2.4 engine. I'm thinking about replacing it with a dual ball bearing T4 PT67r. PTE wants $1350 for the pt6776

http://www.precisionturbo.net/small-frame-turbochargers.php

CALL 6776RH 4" Inlet / 3" Outlet

CALL 6776RHB 4" Inlet / 3" Outlet Bell

CALL 6776RHPS 4" Inlet / 3" Outlet Ported Shroud

CALL 6776RE Boosted Availability in mid 2007 3" Inlet / 2" Outlet

CALL 6776RS Boosted Availability in mid 2007 4" Inlet / 2.5" Outlet

CALL 6776RSP Boosted Availability in mid 2007 4" Inlet / 2.5" Outlet Ported Shroud

CALL 6776RH Boosted Availability in mid 2007 4" Inlet / 3" Outlet

CALL 6776RHB Boosted Availability in mid 2007 4" Inlet / 3" Outlet Bell

CALL 6776RHPS Boosted Availability in mid 2007 4" Inlet / 3" Outlet Ported Shroud


I'm hoping for 500whp pump and 600-700whp on race gas for my mostly street/occasional track car.
 
The DNP has a divided flange and the wastegate is connected to both sides of the collector.
The T4 PTE turbos have a 3'' vband outlet. I doubt the FP o2 housing would fit. Your going to have to have someone make you a downpipe.
 
A few people have suggested that the T3 version of the 37r will have much better response than the T4. I have done alot of research trying to decide on T3 or T4 and the general consensus of several people on the boards seems to be that a smaller AR (.68) T4 turbo will spool faster and have more top end than a larger AR (.83) T3 turbo of the same size. Divided housings and Manifolds seem to increase spool time even more. Is this data inaccurate?
 
My research suggests that this is very accurate:thumb: . Twin volutes do a great deal to increase engine VE across the rpm range (w/out running a larger wheel or housing) and doing work on the turbine blades. Increasing low rpm VE alone will aid in spool.
 
I finally got a few minutes of spare time today on my lunch break to talk to some Turbo vendors on the phone. I called 3 different companies.

I called PTE first and spoke with a guy named Alex. He seemed very knowledgeable but he was also kind of a jerk. He basically told me that my plan of running a T4 divided housing 6776r was a bad idea and that in essence the divided housing is simply choking the turbo (If this is true, why are bigger turbos used on DSMs like the 42r etc divided hotside by default?) He also said that he could not give me any specific information reguarding the AMS 37R in comparison with the pt67r because they "do not support dsm specific applications because they are a large company that makes turbochargers capable of up to 2700 horsepower" He basically made me feel like I was insane for even asking about running the pt6776 and said something to the extent of "that turbo is capable of making over 700 horsepower to the wheels and it will be nearly impossible to drive on the street with such a small engine". I pretty much got the vibe from talking to this guy that my car is small potatoes and I shouldn't even bother trying to make it fast and should just go out and buy a car with a huge motor. Maybe I'm blowing it out of proportion but the guy pissed me off. :mad:

The second call I made was to AMS. The person I spoke with was very nice and friendly but seemed to know very little about turbos. He said they might have a 37r in stock and he wasn't sure weather or not it was a T3 turbo. He took my information and told me he would have someone call me back, but I still haven't heard anything.

The third and most satisfying call I made was to Shearer Fabrications. They were very knowledgable and friendly and told me about my options for exhausts O2 housings and manifolds as well as expected prices and timeframe for custom work. They said they can custom build an O2 housing to fit my existing downpipe depending on what manifold I choose and quoted me a very reasonable price. :thumb:

It sounds like I can have my turbo rebuilt for around $150-$200 but I won't be able to squeeze nearly as much power out of the SCM as a T4 67r...
 
Last edited by a moderator:
From the posts around here. Several have met your goal w/ a SC61. I'm not sure about the SCM. I've heard several claim that swapping to a t3 flanged mani and a true garrett turbine housing yield 50hp right away, suggesting that the scm housing and stock exhaust mani are restrictive at this level.

The compressor and turbine wheel you already are running certainly supports your goals. Who's tuning this?

Your 880s cannot support the flow neccesary for your race gas goal. May I suggest water injection as well for your pump gas goal.
 
Call Geoff at Full Race, the man knows his stuff.

If it were me, I would go with a GT4088r (or Full Race's T37r) w/a divided manifold. It would be an absolute street terror on a correctly setup 2.4.

This is the setup that I am going to put into play on my own setup.
 
I was planning on upgrading to 1600cc injectors anyway and I would like to do Methanol injection as well. However, since I know my turbo is shot I'm going to have to focus my resources on fixing it first before I upgrade the fuel system so I can at least drive my car again. I can get an equal length t3 manifold for pretty cheap, but, having PTE upgrade my existing turbo to a T3 turbine housing and fix the leaking seals might be expensive. I'm assuming there is no other serious damage to the turbo, but I dont know for sure. My friend that was following me the last time I drove the car told me I was shooting flames out of the exhaust. :( Im not sure if thats an idication of bigger problems or not, but If I'm going to have to spend a lot of money to re-pair/upgrade my existing turbo I think I would rather go all out and buy a badass setup that I won't need to upgrade or replace for a long time.

btw.. My existing turbo is also internally gated which I'm afraid may cause boost control issues if and when I ever start to make big boost/HP numbers with it.
 
Flames is an indication of a rich condition. I've not seen so much oil out of the seals that there would be flames. but I have seen many a fuel dump or bad tune lead to flames. Do you have much shaft play?
 
I did not notice any shaft play but the car started blowing smoke out of the exhaust and it has never done that in the past. :barf: I was freaking out thinking my rings or valve seals were shot at first, but my new 2.4 engine only has 1000 miles on it and has brand new seals and pistons/rings so there shouldn't be any reason for it to smoke unless oil is getting past the turbo seals.
 
Boostleak test:p . Check your tune w/ a wideband. Leak down test. You'r engine could still be theproblem. But again oil doesn't really flame like fuel.

I'm hoping, for your sake, the first two tell you something new. Swapping out turbo seals is something that you can do on your own :) . I'd have the setup rebalanced by a profesional. But, that's all I'd spend on a turbo w/ a tight shaft.
 
The car has never been tuned properly since I put the new engine in. I know just enough about DSMlink to be dangerous. I thought I had my Lo and Hi LTFTs set pretty well, but it does seem to be dumping too much fuel at WOT, but at idle it never smoked like it is now. My mechanic friends suggested the turbo seals were the problem but I guess I will go ahead and do a leakdown test. Were you joking about a boost leak test? If not, how would that cause it to smoke?
 
I sent Josh a pm guys. I might be able to help. And possibly save him some money.

Steven
 
The car has never been tuned properly since I put the new engine in. I know just enough about DSMlink to be dangerous. I thought I had my Lo and Hi LTFTs set pretty well, but it does seem to be dumping too much fuel at WOT, but at idle it never smoked like it is now. My mechanic friends suggested the turbo seals were the problem but I guess I will go ahead and do a leakdown test. Were you joking about a boost leak test? If not, how would that cause it to smoke?

A boost leak causes a super rich condition as metered air leaves the system and is not combusted. This would casue flames out the tailpipe and smoke. Not at idle ususally, but at practically every other throttle position.

It's just an easy way to rule out a possible issue.
 
The guy at PTE is right about the divided housings. That is why you run a much larger housing when you do go divided. The .68 open is a good housing. My research told me similar things that you mention when comparing it o the .82 t3. If you really want to go divided, you need to be looking at a div .96.

As far a direct comapriosn from a scm61 to a pt67 (rev-hard cast mani for the t4) I picked up close to 3 lb/min from the swap at the same boost level. Hard to argue with that. What I planned on doing when I had the 61 was just bolt on a t4 turbine housing to it. I started buying the manifold, wg, etc and someone offered to buy my 61 so I just got a 67 instead.
 
After reading about a few people with full gt4294r setups that are spooling almost as fast as the pt67 and making over 800whp I'm tempted to go all out and buy one. The manifold and turbo will be alot more expensive, but after watching these videos and reading some reviews on these turbo's it's very tempting. Check this out;

2.3l 4g63 evo with 42r and shearer T4 divided manifold - over 800hp

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=263041&highlight=42r

http://www.norrisdesigns.com/videos-evo9.asp
 
Do you have any idea how much oil pressure your feeding your turbo? That may be the reason for the blue smoke. Just throwing it out there before you go and upgrade.
 
Do you have any idea how much oil pressure your feeding your turbo? That may be the reason for the blue smoke. Just throwing it out there before you go and upgrade.

The turbo is getting oil from the oil filter housing where the instruction manual said I should install the feed line. Apparently feeding the journal bearing pte turbos from the head was causing failure, because the turbo came with very specific instructions to install the feed line from the filter housing. As far as oil pressure goes, I have no Idea. I have a new 2.4 engine with no balance shafts or oil squirters, so I'm sure it's higher than stock. I did notice right before it started smoking that my oil pressure guage was higher at idle than it had ever been, and the turbo was running like complete ass. It felt weaker than my old t25. I haven't driven the car in a long time. It's been parked at my mechanic friends shop for months until I get the funds together to work on it. He started it a couple of days ago and told me that it did not smoke. :confused:
 
If you're not running a restrictor, then your oil pressure at the turbo is upwards of `20 psi. Almost twice the maximum recommended pressure for a journal bearing garrett centersection. . . There's you're smoking problem IF you've not used a restrictor.

You also don't have any oil squirters that I believe would relieve oil pressure as well. . .
 
Really? No one ever mentioned that I needed a restrictor. When I first put the turbo on the car the install kit that Martin at "Speed Factor" sold me had no restrictor and he never mentioned that I needed one, only that I had to install the feed line at the filter housing (however, I was using my old stock 2.0 7bolt at the time). Thanks FPgreen95tsi and DSMonster :D , I'll try putting one on. I'm not quite sure where to buy a restrictor from though. I guess I'll just search google and the forums until I figure it out.

Gotta love the forums, I learn something new every day. :D
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Build Thread Updates

Latest Classifieds

Back
Top