if i remeber correctly the wastegate is the same some one correct me if im worng please. did your friend have an exhaust? or was it stock exhaust?

For the 16G turbo use the wastegate that comes with it. The 2g wastegate sucks. You need to carefully read over the procedure that explains the install.

Make sure that you install the boost controller correctly so you don't get a boost spike. It will happen if you manage to install it backwards. If the wastegate is questionable just remove the hose from the wastegate and see how high the boost is rising to. Keep us posted on what you don't understand and the progress.

you might be getting boost creep
You shoult port your o2 housing and exhaust manifold while your turbo is off

Port your 2G O2 housing... particularly around the wastegate port. The issue is that the exhaust gases are not bypassing the turbine blades to slow down spool when the waste gate opens.

I am running a B16G and I don't have boost spikes. But then again, I am using only stock 9.5 psi which is the pressure at which the WG opens.

well so far ive read a couple posts and forums about the install, and it doesnt seem to be that big of an issue. i mean... compared to rebuilding a bottom end and such .

so ill leave the B16G wastegate on.

my buddy did have an exhaust, but i am running the stock downpipe... its basically just the downpipe to the cat, and then a 3in pipe just running out the bottom of the car.

~K

Your buddy most likely has boost creep. You may not have a problem with it since your exhaust from turbo to cat is stock. I agree that you should consider porting your turbine and O2 housings as well as your exhaust manifold while you've got things torn down. This may or may not help with creep when you put a turboback exhaust on, but it'll be better for exhaust flow down the road. Do a search on boost creep solutions for more info. I've written several detailed porting threads that I could dig up, but you should be able to find them in an intelligent forum search.

NEVER remove the hose going to the wastegate nipple and drive the car without knowing what you're doing. This completely disables the wastegate which is the mechanism for limiting boost on your turbo. With no wastegate actuation signal, the wastegate never opens, and your boost goes as high as it can (not good). There's no reason to do this in your situation.

Your buddy could test for boost creep (search for an answer and post back or PM if you don't find anything).

Have fun with the turbo swap!

kenamond said:

Your buddy most likely has boost creep. You may not have a problem with it since your exhaust from turbo to cat is stock. I agree that you should consider porting your turbine and O2 housings as well as your exhaust manifold while you've got things torn down. This may or may not help with creep when you put a turboback exhaust on, but it'll be better for exhaust flow down the road. Do a search on boost creep solutions for more info. I've written several detailed porting threads that I could dig up, but you should be able to find them in an intelligent forum search.

NEVER remove the hose going to the wastegate nipple and drive the car without knowing what you're doing. This completely disables the wastegate which is the mechanism for limiting boost on your turbo. With no wastegate actuation signal, the wastegate never opens, and your boost goes as high as it can (not good). There's no reason to do this in your situation.

Your buddy could test for boost creep (search for an answer and post back or PM if you don't find anything).

Have fun with the turbo swap!

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Thank you for that. I completely dicked that one up. I ment to say run a hose from the boost source to the wastegate instead of the boost controller.

Yeah, running a wastegate with no hose hook up would cause the turbo to overboost and really mess up alot of stuff.

hopwoodp said:

Thank you for that. I completely dicked that one up. I ment to say run a hose from the boost source to the wastegate instead of the boost controller.

Yeah, running a wastegate with no hose hook up would overboost and really mess stuff up.

Click to expand...

No problem. I figured that you either meant to disconnect the WGA arm from the lever (for a creep test) or bypassing the BCS/MBC to run at minimum boost. I also figured he didn't know what you *meant* and may soon discover what fuel cut feels like .

kenamond said:

and may soon discover what fuel cut feels like .

Click to expand...

oh trust me i know... i had an 87 dodge daytona that would always hit 14.7lbs instead of 14 and always cut real abruptly... kinda crappy but a nice failsafe.

kenamond said:

No problem. I figured that you either meant to disconnect the WGA arm from the lever (for a creep test) or bypassing the BCS/MBC to run at minimum boost. I also figured he didn't know what you *meant* and may soon discover what fuel cut feels like .

Click to expand...

Damn, you just about made me spray beer all over my keyboard!
But, yeah I guess I was thinking of both of these things at the same time and kinda twisted them.

so we got everything and installed, took a total of 10 hrs to install. things went fairly smooth, the install kit was pretty much perfect, only thing that needed cutting was the oil return line.


under the car at the start of the day.


before the install


new 16g




so we started it up today and it fired right up, we forgot to plug in the MAF but other than that it was perfect according to the POS boost gauge i have it said i was hitting 20 psi, but i dont think thats right. considering it said i was hitting 5-7 lbs and the turbo wasnt even spooling yet.

there was a sensor we came across during the install of the oil feed line fitting. im not quite sure what the hell it is, but my guess is its the oil pressure sensor.



now when we first saw it, the sensor was unplugged and the connector was broken so it hadnt been working if it was supposed to do anything.

what is it?


ive got to recoat the oil pan fitting, i guess the owner before must have replaced drain line, cause it looked fairly new, and the oil pan had some sort of RTV caked all over it. while driving the car the turbo pushes the oil out and it leaks a little from the front of the pan. easily fixable. when i get into boost the turbo will puff out some oil if im really on it, but its just leaking from the drain line onto the downpipe, but ill fix that tomorrow.

the original drain line.


driving the car is sweet. taking it easy for the time being, but in third it will hit fuel cut, and the same with fourth. but it was a sweet install and things didnt get too messed up along the way.

That's the oil pressure sending unit.

I'm thinking your boost gauge is telling the truth, since you're hitting fuel cut. What boost control are you using?

Also, make sure you do a boost leak test and post how you did it and how it went.

Fun stuff!

Sorry to butt in on the thread I am new to the forum and my DSM has a stock 14b turbo which I took off today because it was not going in to boost and upon inspecting it I see the shaft had crazy play on it and the turbine fins were bent to shit, but my question is, is the turbo you are installing the 16g off ebay, and if so the 14b on my car had an external wastegate really do not know what brand but will I be able to use that one or would I be better off with the one that comes on the 16g.

Itsreallyadodge... recirculate your BOV.

kenamond said:

That's the oil pressure sending unit.

I'm thinking your boost gauge is telling the truth, since you're hitting fuel cut. What boost control are you using?

Also, make sure you do a boost leak test and post how you did it and how it went.

Fun stuff!

Click to expand...

i havent made a boost leak tester yet... havent made it to home depot yet...

as to the boost gauge... i didnt think the stock fuel system to support anything higher than 14.7 lbs? i know thats where the fuel cut off for the daytona... i figured itd proily be the same...

as for a boost controller, i have yet to make one... most likely ill order the parts from grainger, or just go to the store in town and make one...

for now, ive been nothing but careful and no boost basically... it holds okay under about 5-7lbs but other than that itll smoke.... id much rather be safe then sorry... when i get home from class today ill put the rtv on it and let it dry over night... hopefully itll help some...

its too bad you are running that kinda bov and not a greddy, b/c my greddy upper intercooler pipe is coming off next weekend. i'm running a b16g w/ a front mount and i'm putting a different intercooler in and switching it over to short route piping.

i would recommend getting a walbro fuel pump. i know a guy selling one for 50 bucks if you want me to contact him, he lives in king of prussia, and i'm sure he would sell it to you if you have paypal or something

def. recirculate you bov, you will actually lose a little bit of power with out it. are you still having problems with it? Or has everything worked itself out.

With that leak at the oil pan, make sure you are using the bolts with the washers on them. Those bolts go into the pan and oil will find its way out through the threads without those washers.
Do you always drive by PNC Park? I see a Talon just like yours run across the 6th Street Bridge almost every day at lunch time... I dunno, just thought I'd ask.

PS. If your looking for any parts let me know, I have a ton laying around.

itsreallyadodge said:

i havent made a boost leak tester yet... havent made it to home depot yet...

as to the boost gauge... i didnt think the stock fuel system to support anything higher than 14.7 lbs? i know thats where the fuel cut off for the daytona... i figured itd proily be the same...

as for a boost controller, i have yet to make one... most likely ill order the parts from grainger, or just go to the store in town and make one...

for now, ive been nothing but careful and no boost basically... it holds okay under about 5-7lbs but other than that itll smoke.... id much rather be safe then sorry... when i get home from class today ill put the rtv on it and let it dry over night... hopefully itll help some...

Click to expand...

All you need is a 2 1/4" rubber end cap and clamp. Tee the BOV line and use some spare vacuum hose to to connect the T to your air source. $0.90. And you don't have to worry about damaging seals on your turbo.

Oh my goodness. I just noticed you worked on your car jacked up on rocks and only cardboard under the jack and jack stands! Oh my god how unsafe!

Just for reference. . . This is NOT an MHI 16g. The turbine housing, compressor housing, and wastegate actuator are not the same as what Mitsubishi manufactures.

That 2g o2 housing is in great shape .

Here's my real 16g turbo and the boxes highlight most of the visual differences (don't mind the custom oil inlet and coolant exit lines):

I remeber my first turbo install took me about 8hrs. Now I can get a turbo off and back on in two hours. I just noticed that it looks like you have a 1g intake manifold but the motor defientaly looks like a 7bolt.

Early 2g's say ECU Multi on the IM. It's not a 1g intake manifold.

housegsx said:

Early 2g's say ECU Multi on the IM. It's not a 1g intake manifold.

Click to expand...

How early? My 95 (Dec 94) GSX didn't have one.

I dunno, maybe it's just the Talon's then... My '95 Talon TSi looks like the pictures posted.