Try the PLX Devices AFR + DM5 combo.. comes with the wideband controller, sensor and a NICE VERY THIN GAUGE... also has an output for narrowand and wideband voltage output for logging or for dsmlink or chipped ecu that has a target A/F ratio!!! My buddy has the AEM UEGO, he wishes he got plx devices instead because plx one is cheaper...

or since you already have one that has no gauge.. just get a gauge for 0-5 volt wideband output!

mark

Lm-1 all the way, should be no discussion. Is ability to link up and record your readings, its rpm convertor that gives the most precise readings I have ever seen, the fact that it hooks up to a variety of other gauges.

I'm happy with my AEM, it has analog output for connecting it to other devices.... the guage does a great job, very accurate.

After reading and looking. Can I use any company gauge with the lc-1 or only innovate gauge. That alone is $250. Will the plx gauge work with it? Where are some good places to get the gauges. This is the kit I have. http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/xcart/product.php?productid=16169&cat=262&page=1

what about a logger or dsmlink that can tell your a/f ratio with voltage numbers? a cheaper solution.

A logger or DSMLink aren't practical to monitor while driving in traffic, though. I've tried reading my DSMLink graph while driving, and I don't recommend it.

MrBoxx said:

A logger or DSMLink aren't practical to monitor while driving in traffic, though. I've tried reading my DSMLink graph while driving, and I don't recommend it.

Click to expand...

true that! it would be dangerous with your eyes off the road. but some may say saving cash is more important than safety.

Well I have a logger. But I would like the gauge just need to know which one will work and don't cost $250

If you have a logger I assume you don't have the link. The link you can configure for the lc-1 to monitor. Also, Logworks comes with the innovate LC-1 and has a speedo/gauge type interface where you can log your A/F ratios or just quickly look over at the lappy if you're that concerned......

Honestly, as long as she's not dyeing at idle and I have tuned it previously with no knock....i don't really care about the a/f ratio --but that's just me

The cheaper route, get the LC-1. Install it. Borrow or use a laptop to tune it. Forget about it.

Expensive/eye pleasing way but you get the same outcome: buy the $250 gauge

I've had numerous people recommend the PLX widebands, really interested in seeing what others think...i need a wideband myself

Just program one of the outputs of the lc-1 for 1volt= 10:1 afr and 2 volts = 20:1 afr, so when the lc-1 output is 1.47 volts, that is 14.7:1 afr. Then get one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/Brand-New-3-Red...1QQihZ017QQcategoryZ73158QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The decimal place is adjustable, so you can get it to dispaly actual afr rather than output voltage.

Total Cost: $20

I got the aem uego i am very happy with it, very accurate

tom04841 said:

Just program one of the outputs of the lc-1 for 1volt= 10:1 afr and 2 volts = 20:1 afr, so when the lc-1 output is 1.47 volts, that is 14.7:1 afr. Then get one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/Brand-New-3-Red...1QQihZ017QQcategoryZ73158QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The decimal place is adjustable, so you can get it to dispaly actual afr rather than output voltage.

Total Cost: $20

Click to expand...

and how do you program the voltage?

You prgram the voltage with the software that comes with the lc-1......its called LM Programmer.

Read this: http://www.innovatemotorsports.com/support/manual/LC-1_Manual.pdf

Pay attention to page 13. The screenshot is there. It is very easy to do.

tom04841 said:

Just program one of the outputs of the lc-1 for 1volt= 10:1 afr and 2 volts = 20:1 afr, so when the lc-1 output is 1.47 volts, that is 14.7:1 afr. Then get one of these http://cgi.ebay.com/Brand-New-3-Red...1QQihZ017QQcategoryZ73158QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

The decimal place is adjustable, so you can get it to dispaly actual afr rather than output voltage.

Total Cost: $20

Click to expand...

When using this what one would I need the 5v, 9v, 12v? dc powered?