I have a problem with my car that I have been trying to figure out. I bought this car as it sits, and would like some advice. I did some searching on this site, but did not come up with anything.

Car has a problem shifting into 1st whether or not the car is running or not, UNLESS the car is rolling. Same problem with reverse - It won't go in unless car is rolling backwards. Again,this happens if the car is running or not.

Car has ACT 2600+Fidanza. I did not install this so I don't know if the flywheel is stepped properly. Master CYL is new and system is bled. Currently there is an extended slave rod installed. I tried adjusting at the pedal assembly but it did not get any better.

Should I replace the Slave cyl? Steel Braided clutch line? Clutch Fork? Pivot ball? Should I shim it?


Thanks for your input

May want to first take inventory of the shifter components vs transmission to see if the prior owner mixed/matched (e.g if the tranny is a '90 with '92 cables/shifter/shifter bracket..etc it will be difficult to engage certain gears):

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=93739&highlight=shifter+differences

Also try pulling up on the clutch lever to see if it comes up any further. If so, your clutch pedal assembly is likely worn and needs to be replaced/welded:

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=96981
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=156805

Also make sure the shifter cable is adjusted correctly and that the bolts/rubber bushings under the shifter are secure and the rubber bushings in the engine side of the shift cables are ok. Solid bushign replacements for both are a very common (and cheap) upgrade

Thanks for the response. It should be noted that this is a '92 car with a SHEP rebuilt GVR4 Tranny. The Pedal assy has been welded.
Where does this put me for the next step? Should I measure the shifter linkage lever? Which one should I have, the '92 one or the VR4 one? I will check the bushings and see how they look.

Have you checked out Shep's FAQ ?
Ho many miles are on this tranny / when was it rebuilt? His trannies are pretty tight during the break-in period (mine was).

If all other gears are ok, then likely the clutch is fine. May want to give John a call and see if he has some insight. Just be sure to jot down the VIN# on the bellhousing

Ok. Will do - This tranny has at least 7k miles on it. The other gears are all hard to shift into while driving, but by double clutching, they go in smooth.

If I put the car in 1st and have the clutch to the floor and rev the car, the car will move forward

When I put the car in reverse and start it with the clutch to the floor, the car rolls backwards.

From Shep's FAQ:
" My car is hard to put in gear or the car must be in gear before I start it?
This is very common when the clutch is not releasing. Most often while having the trans rebuilt the clutch is replaced. Installing an upgraded clutch requires more clutch pedal travel and needs to be readjusted and worn parts replaced. We recommend a new clutch fork , pivot ball , oem or act throwout brg and a braided stainless clutch line. "

I think this will fix my issue. I have a Taboo clutch fork, steel braided clutch line, pivot ball, and TOB that I will install and see how that goes.

i have the same problem, but i have a new shift fork, new clutch, TOB, symborski shift kit, metal underhood bushings, adjusted my clutch pedal AND my shifter, and its been this way for about 3K into my new trans, well not the hard to get into first or reverse part, but the rough shifting in 1-5, sometimes its rough but others it just goes right in, ill try the ss clutch line and see if that helps, but i only have a ACT 2100 clutch

Mine has also been getting progressively worse, if that matters.

Also, when it is REAL cold outside, before the tranny warms up, it shifts smooth as butter

^^^same, i have talked to another with this similar problem, cant figure it out.

Today I recieved my steel braided clutch line, new slave cyl, new tob, new pivot ball, and new clutch fork. we'll see if it fixes this

i have new everything you said, execpt the SS clutch line, i wonder if that could be causing the rough shifting, i have a new master cylinder im going to install, if that is the cause i will post it, i will be hopefully installing it this saturday, as well as swapping the trans fluid to pennzoil synchromesh.

Are you bleeding the slave cyl properly? Even if you think you are, read this to confirm: http://dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=213503

I will report back with my findings.

ya i used the vfaq instructions, but im going to do it again, ill post as well

Installed steel braided clutch line, Installed new Slave Cyl, bled system multiple times. Still no go. Extended slave rod or normal rod, it just doesn't shift into reverse while running!

Also switched to Pennzoil Synchromesh.. Car shifts a little better, but still has same problems as above. Next course of action would be to replace clutch fork, fulcrum ball, and check the step on the fidanza? any other ideas?

Well tranny screwed up now.. any time I move it in reverse or any forward gears, it clunks/grinds... doesn't do it when up on jackstands... there is still plenty of fluid in the transmission.. cv axles are in the transmission just fine.. sounds like it's coming from passenger side... all 4 wheels turn just fine when up on jackstands and in 1st... any ideas?