Here you go:

Exhaust manifold gasket: MD181032 (optional)
Exhaust manifold to turbo gasket: MD128901
Turbo to O2 housing gasket: MD191897
Oil drain line to turbo gasket: MD198888
Oil drain line to oil pan gasket: MR258477
14mm Crush washers: MF660065
6mm Crush washers: MD050317
Turbo Bolts: MR187699

I just did this swap not to long ago. If you have any questions at all, feel free to ask.
Use plenty of PB blaster for days in advance and be sure to prime the turbo after installation. Most of all, have fun.

EDIT: An O2 sensor socket comes in handy when removing the front o2 sensor.

Here are some torque specs for reference as well:

Ok nice. Did you do the install of the T28 to your car? How's it feel?

I installed a t28 on my car last year and past 5000 rpms will will notice it instantly. Pulls all the way to redline. I ran 14 psi on mine w/ stock injectors and an safc and it ran great.

Yes, it is installed on my car. I love it. A marginal difference between it and my out-of-breath t25. Mine is unported and hits full boost a hair over 3000rpm.

I did this install not to long ago on my GSX. Picked up a barley used one for 250.000. Like stated above it wasn't a huge difference lower rpms, but it will hold till redline now, unlike the t-25.

To be honest with you I wish I would have just shelled out 300.00 more and got the evo 3 16g. My cousin has one on his talon and it pulls like a raped ape.

I have a SBR Big T28. A few of the best investments you could make is to take your turbo and 02 housing to a machine shop and have the inlet and outlet ported along with the exhaust manifold. That will allow you to flow alot more air and aid spool up. Its always easier to do while you are there. Also if it doesnt have the 17psi actuator then you should order one. It will allow you to run more constint boost to redline. Even though it is a T28 it still has the 11psi actuator from the T25.

Shawn, a number of people have been throwing up manual photos like you have recently. Do you get yours from the DSM manual CD?

I actually found these torque specs in an online automotive database that is available through my campus. This database is like having a shop manual for virtually any vehicle. I found it's torque specs and misc. diagrams to be especially useful to me.
I use it when working on other people's vehicles when they do not have a shop manual.

Is there a site or some way to easily buy all the gaskets/washers etc?

diablos991 said:

I actually found these torque specs in an online automotive database that is available through my campus. This database is like having a shop manual for virtually any vehicle. I found it's torque specs and misc. diagrams to be especially useful to me.
I use it when working on other people's vehicles when they do not have a shop manual.

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I have used Shaun's spec for my FP T-28 install i have had no problems.

Daenon said:

Is there a site or some way to easily buy all the gaskets/washers etc?

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extremepsi.com or slowboyracing.com don't forget pb blaster and some copper seize another option is to replace the feed line with steel braided looks and works great.

I ordered the DSM GASKET KIT from SBR..it'll be here tomorrow. Suck tho...I want to install this thing ASAP, but I leave for NY tomorrow too....so thats atleast one week of being patient . But hey...Ill order a 190 pump and a real intake pipe when Im up north. I cant wait. Thanks for all the help btw

A bit off-topic, but I was wondering what some of you guys are seeing for airflow lb/min from your T28s and at what psi?

I currently seeing 28.8 @ 21 psi after adjusting for AFC correction and I think that is way low for that boost pressure.

Rice Over Wheat said:

A bit off-topic, but I was wondering what some of you guys are seeing for airflow lb/min from your T28s and at what psi?

I currently seeing 28.8 @ 21 psi after adjusting for AFC correction and I think that is way low for that boost pressure.

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Wow really only 28.8 what brand type t28 do you got ? That doesn't sound right i've check other sources i've know it to be any where from 35 to 37lbs/min.

AGP Big T28, rated 550 cfm and 36 lb/min (360hp). Too bad I don't know any dsmers in Orlando. I'd like try my logger in their car and see what it reads with other turbos.

What would be the best injectors to run with a Big T28 to get its full potential? I didn't know if the 550-560-580-650's would be best. If anyone could help me out.

550s will be able to max the turbo out. However, if you plan on going bigger in the future, you may want to get larger injectors.

Thank you. I just plan to stick with the Big T28 for a while.

I have a ported FP28. It kicks butt. I'd go 560s ; )

diablos991 said:

550s will be able to max the turbo out. However, if you plan on going bigger in the future, you may want to get larger injectors.

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While that is probably true, I would be particularly troubled about the max duty cycle that the 550/560/580cc injectors would be at when pushing this turbocharger to its limits. Although it seems to be a common understanding that having the duty cycle be no higher than 80 percent, new understandings come to the conclusion that one's max duty cycle should be much lower (for safety, longevity, and efficiency of the injectors).

Therefore, regardless if one decides to "go bigger" regarding the turbocharger, it seems that it would be most efficient and effective if the injectors were upgraded to the largest ones possible. In other words, you would ideally want the maximum duty cycle to be as low as possible (assuming the injectors are functioning properly).

Injector duty cycle is the amount of time that the fuel injectors are held open versus the amount of time available at a specific RPM before the next injection cycle. This is extremely important when the injectors are being pushed to their limits (which is exactly why you do not what the duty cycle to be any higher than 80 percent). For example, when an injector is being worked at 90+ percent, it is not able to open and close efficiently enough and it starts to float partially open. As you can imagine, the results are not good.

Like stated above, since you will have the parts off, have them ported. Especially behind the flapper. Make sure the flapper on the wastegate side can open full 90 degrees. Port the other stuff. Like the exhaust manfold/O2 housing and the inlet to turbo. Match the exhaust manifold to the turbo then.

There are great write up on here for the porting. I did mine on the 14B, didnt take to long, but I'm glad I did it.

I installed mt FP big T28 about 2 months ago and i love it. make sure you tighten your water lines down good or else youll be taking the turbo back off to fix them. That was my only real problem with it. I ported my 02 housing while i had it off. my turbo was ported from fp. Buy a stainless steel line. It makes life so much easier. extremepsi has a good price on them. I suggest to use a little teflon tape on the threads for the line. Any questions pm me ### i took it nice and easy to figure all things out and get it installed correctly.

hey guys sorry im a newbie to this forum, but my t25 on my 96 spyder gst took a crap, im looking into getting another turbo to replace it now, so from my reading, can i assume that a t28 will bolt right on this car with no other modifications. also should i pick up any other performance parts with the t28 to run it safely in my car or can i just leave the car the way it is and just swap the turbos out and be fine. Also right now i have a greddy bov and intake...thats about it. will i need a boost controller or anything?

You won't need anything other than the hardware in the second post. You can reuse all your stock water and oil lines provided they aren't cracked. However, you might want to pick up an SS Oil Feed line. The stock one's a bi***.

You can run no MBC and just have a vac line running from the compressor housing to the wastegate. That will give you ~11psi, which is safe on a stock fuel system with no tuning capability.