The Central Hub for DSM Community and Information

For 1990-1999 Mitsubishi Eclipse, Eagle Talon, Plymouth Laser, and Galant VR-4 Owners. This is where the DSM platform history is documented and archived. Log in to help us in our mission, and to remove most ads from the browsing experience.

Car takes for ever to start in the morning

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.

Demon5spd

15+ Year Contributor
90
0
Aug 18, 2006
omaha, Nebraska
Ok so i've searched and havent be able to find exactly what i was lookinf for, In the morning the car takes about 10 minutes to start it cranks find i'm not sure of the voltage to the starter but it seems fine.

I've replace the fuel filter, air filter, spark plugs and wire's, the car runs f'n awesome once it start ups but it still takes about 10 mins typically maybe 10 to 15 starts.

about the 13 to 14 try it kind of starts then die's and then a couple try's later it runs fine, i don't think it's a problem with the battery/ cable since it start's eventually without a jump start but i'm not sure what it could be i thinking it's the fuel pump but it does start and run fine once it starts so i'm not sure and then it runs and start's fine all day.

I'm thinking it may be something to do with the ignition system but i'm pretty much lost so any help would be great.
 
My vote is the coolant temp switch. When it finally starts does it smell like its running really rich? Usually the CTS goes bad then it tells the computer that its -37 degrees outside so it dumps in a crapload of gas. If you know anybody with a logger check and see what temp it says. Otherwise you can measure the resistance of it with a ohmeter but you would have to look up the spec because I forget.
 
mitsu420at said:
are you throwing a cel code ? your fuel pressure solinoid could have gone bad , its the little vac. hose that comes off of the fuel regulator and goes to a blck box on the fire wall.


Try again. FPR solenoid is to raise the fuel pressure on HOT starts. its spring loaded to default open and only closes on hot starts. highly unlikely that it stuck closed
 
I would likely suspicion the coolant temp sensor also. However, I doubt it's -40. Most likely it reads in the other direction which would cause a lean condition upon cold start. If it's flooding after it's warmed up, then it is likely the other direction. I would scan the computer to see if the sensor is reading really off of what it should be.

Good Luck
 
Thanks for all the help guys ass for the check engine light coming on, there's is none and once it does start it's perfect.

As for the coolant temp sensor would the gauge in side also read very low or high if this sensor was bad because mind reads normal. All check the fuel pressure solenoid also, oh and is there a fuel pump relay for our carsi know gm cars have problems with them i'm heading out side to see if it starts i'll tell you guys what happens
 
Where would that sensor be located then, i found the one on the theromstat housing which i think it's for the guage i'm not sure
 
The coolant temperature sensor is below your radiator cap on your thermostat housing.Theres two terminals/wires i believe..
 
To check the sensor, check the resistance value of the coolant temperature sensor while its cold (50-80degrees F = 2,200 to 2700 ohms) Then, start up the engine and warm it up until it reaches normal op temp. The resistance should be lower (180 to 200degrees F = 280 to 350 ohms) You can simulate this by removing the coolant sensor and testing it in a pan of heated water.If thats okay, check the circuit for proper volatge. Turn the ignition key on and check for signal voltage it should be approx. 4.5 to 4.9volts
 
Ok so i go out there about a hour ago and the freakin thing starts right up and i take it for a spin it runs perfect all the way to redline at around 15-16psi, so i'm pretty much stumped all ck again tomorrow morning to see if it still starts right up.

I also got a new fuel pressure gauge from my buddy so i'll install that tomorrow it the kind that mounts in place of the bolt on top of the fuel filter.

I just have to drill out the hole to make it bigger the stock one on the dsm is bigger so i'm assuming that i will need to drill it out to get proper fuel flow.

Well thanks for all the help i'm not sure whats the problem but i'll see if it comes back tomorrow
 
Ok so i'm fricken stumped i went out side to test the resistance of coolant sensor the one on the thermostat housing and it measure .25 ohms , and i was told cold it should measure 2,600 to 2,800 ohms so am i looking at the right sensor or not.

As for the car starting it didn't i tried about 4 times nothing so i go to the auto parts store with my buddy for about a hour, i come back hop in at it starts right up but it stumbles for the first min like the car was running rich but after that it's find.

What the heck is wrong LOL the battery and cables all are good it getting good amps to the starter but it just fricke won't start in the morning. LOL
 
My wires got old over time and broke in half, as Luke said. I re-crimped a spade on each wire, then realized I didn't know which went to which plug. I put it one way, still had problems, so put it the other way. And still I have the problem. My next move is to buy a new temp. sensor from Napa.
 
Ok so correct me if i'm wrong but the sensor right under neath the radiator cap the one with 2 wires is the one for the ecu right and not the guage.

I went to autozone and they said that they can't get me that switch does anyone have a napa part number for it . I looked on there website and there's like 8 different one's and i'm conffused which one it is.

And just to make sure the sensor good be causing the car not to start in the morning right.
 
Well here's an update i installed the fuel pressure guage to see if the fuel pump is actually working and it shows 40 psi of fuel pressure upon start so it's getting fuel not sure about spark but i'll check.


I'm stumped on the problem i need to try to find that coolant sensor everyone is talking about, could that cause the car not to start?
 
Demon5spd said:
I'm stumped on the problem i need to try to find that coolant sensor everyone is talking about, could that cause the car not to start?
For the tenth time, "YES". To start, you need fuel, spark and compression as well as a funtioning Engine Coolant Temperature Sensor.
 
I'm having the same problem with my car. I've replaced the proper coolant sensor and have cut the wires about 8 inches from the connector and sodered new wires to the connector. Nothing has fixed my problem.

DSM link shows my coolant readings once the car is warmed up at a steady 83 degrees when i'm at idle. Then when i get on the gas the reading spike back and forth from 83 to 200 or more. It wont get an accurate reading.
 
Thanks for all the help guys i ordered the coolant sensor from napa so will see if that fixes it i'll also ck the wires.

Oh and i did by a spark tester and i do have spark upon start up along with 38- 40 psi of fuel so everythings good there so hopefully this fixes it. *crosses fingers*

I've only had this car for about 3 weeks and i've probally been fixing it for the entire three weeks but for some reason i like it.

I will admit once the car does start in the morning it runs perfect and really pulls hard
 
(UPDATE)

Ok so the coolant sensor arrived and it took me a couple minutes to install, not bad though since i also repaired the wiring.

Ididn't find a broken wire but i repaired the wiring anyway just to be safe, ok so to the point i turn the key and it starts right *HORRAY* i drive it around the block and it runs perfect.

All try to start it tomorrow and hopefully the curse will be gone. thanks guys for all the help.
 
Add Value - Be Respectful - No Trolling - No Misinformation - Participate Often!
Support Vendors who Support the DSM Community

Latest Classifieds

  • For sale 2g 2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud
    2G Mishimoto Radiator & Fan Shroud $200 + shipping and paypal feesYou must be registered to...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 2g 2G Power Window Switches ( tested and hardware included )
    2G Power Window Switches $55 + shipping and paypal fees* Tested 6/2/26 * Hardware included *...
    • jersygsx
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale VIRGIN 4G63 6-BOLT TURBO HEAD
    Came off a virgin stock AWD Auto 1G DMS (91), also have matching block and crank which are also...
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale 1G DSM 4G63 6-BOLT TIMING COVER
    Used, see condition in photos. Buyer covers shipping / fees.
    • The_Partout_Spot
    • Updated:
    • Expires
  • For sale Garage clean out
    Changing setups on the car and getting rid of some stuff as well that's been laying around. Will...
    • 92GSXtacy
    • Updated:
    • Expires
Back
Top