i once had a piece of flex tube running up from the front bumper sitting directly under the intake filter aiming some cold air at it,i dont know the benefits though, its best to drop your intake filter slightly down into the wheel well if you dont have the stock side mount taking up the hole thats there.

Browse through our Tech Articles sometime. You might be amazed at what you can do with scrap metal and duct tape.

http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=194759
http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=195667

I have a setup that resembles what Ron has linked & the results are great. You will get a nice inlet temperature drop but you don't have to worry about the water/rain like you would if you have the common "cold air intake" which places the actual filter in the "cold air"

I have the same setup as Wret and it does work. I get intake temps of 75-89 in 75 degree weather.

I highly disocurage putting the air filter in the smic location on a daily/street driven car...you WILL end up driving in rain someday.

this guy did it a long while back:


http://www.superstreetonline.com/fe...1997_mitsubishi_eclipse_wide_body_import_car/

Did what?

Look at the hole in the fender by the filter.

Hmmmmmm... now that's interesting.

Some of the GVR4 guys have done this

i took this one off of the quwhees website.



superstreet didn't focus on this body modification, so there are limited photos of it. there is one photo in the link i gave that KINDA shows the light coming in through the hole when they are taking photos of the engine bay, but it's not a spectacular shot.


another outside shot:

olmytsi said:

I highly disocurage putting the air filter in the smic location on a daily/street driven car...you WILL end up driving in rain someday.

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I drive my car everyday with my filter in that location and have not had any problems. In AZ we don't get a lot of rain but when we do it hits with no warning and will rain 3 inches in an hour or so. I have been in 3 of these down pours since my new intake and my car has never had one problem. I even drove in a down pour on the way to MOD for about an hour. It was so bad I had to slow to 30 MPH to be able to see and again not one problem.

Seems like you could fabricate a filter box that would give you the ram air effect and keep water out of the filter as well. The air just has to stagnate to get the ram air effect, and the water can flow out of the bottom through holes in the filter box. The flowrates at 60mph would overwhelm the water drainage "holes" or louvers or whatever so that the air would still stagnate. You just have to block the air to the front side of the filter so the water hits the shield and drips to the bottom. Obviously, I've been thinking too much about this .

I belive it is AEM that makes an anti water suck valve. You could use one if you are nervous about water.

JellyHunter said:

I belive it is AEM that makes an anti water suck valve. You could use one if you are nervous about water.

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Not sure what that is. Does it flow well or would it add a restriction to the intake? A link with a picture would probably help.

its like a foam coupler. However they warn not to use it on forced induction car because it can get sucked in.

AEM's "anti-water suck valve" (also called "bypass valve" but "anti-water suck valve" sounds cooler):



And the literature:

AEM said:

AEM's Air Bypass valve for Cold Air Induction Systems virtually eliminates the unlikely chance of water ingestion should the filter element become wet from deep puddles, rain, hail, sleet or snow–or any other scenario in which the filter element could encounter or become submerged in water. The valve installs along the upper portion of the inlet pipe on the same axis as the throttle body centerline. Should a drop in pressure occur within the pipe due to filter submersion, the valve shuts down induction at the filter and routes incoming air through its external orifices, eliminating any chance of water ingestion. AEM's Air Bypass Valve is for use on AEM Cold Air Systems only.

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Has anyone thought of building an insulated box around the UICP or any other post-IC-exit piping and filling it with dry ice or something? Obviously not a permanent solution but it would work.

Are you suggesting putting dry ice (solid CO2) in a sealed container that's exposed to heat? The Mythbusters have already proven that that makes a fairly nice bang.

Why not just get a hood scoop...thats what i want badly....

MrBoxx said:

Are you suggesting putting dry ice (solid CO2) in a sealed container that's exposed to heat? The Mythbusters have already proven that that makes a fairly nice bang.

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I saw that actually, which is why I was thinking of something away from the engine bay such as the stock SMIC location (I have long-route piping) where it shouldn't be exposed to enough heat to cause an explosion or at least not at the speed required to cause an explosion (flash-heat is what it was called I believe). Any input on this?

Putting any dry ice in any enclosed container where it can build pressure can cause an explosion. The heat just makes the "ice" vaporize sooner. What I see lots of people doing is putting bags of water ice in front of their intercooler before they race to pre-cool the intercooler.

If you meant using a perforated metal jacket surrounding an intercooler pipe wherein you put dry ice to cool the intercooler pipe, I could see that sorta working. You'd get a lot of carbon dioxide in the engine bay, which if the air filter started sucking up might not be very effective. I'm not sure what the concentrations might be under the hood if the dry ice started vaporizing.

What ends up working better are the kits that utilize either NO2 or CO2 that come with their own intake/IC pipe jacket and cool the pipe that way. I don't believe in these kits that there is any gas leakage; it's most likely a sealed system, and if I remember right, the nitrous kit is injected into the intake tract after the jacket, so it cools twice in two different ways. I could be wrong about that. A friend of mine tested a kit out for a company that included an intake/IC pipe cooler, a gas line cooler, and an intercooler sprayer. I didn't hear back the dyno results, though.

Hmm, good ideas. I will look into this more and maybe put something together if I ever get that bored. With an open or slightly ajar rubberized or even styrofoam box contraption in the stock SMIC location this may be possible (assuming it stays put anyways). This would also solve the CO2 uptake issue for the most part, since oncoming airflow should blow away any gas which is leaked away.

For the guys that did put the filter in the stock smic location, do you have an pics of your setup? What did you use to get it down there? I had remembered someone on here saying that used that intake piping Auto Zone has. I went to go buy some this weekend and then realized that my MAF adapter has a 5" inlet with 5" filter on it.
Where am I supposed to find a 5" 90* bend? And does anyone know how having a very sharp bend in the intake effects the flow? Does the cold air offset this?

Anyone that's worried about water, don't. I drove around for over a year with a Saturn that had a completely exposed filter less than 6" off the ground. I drove through rain storms that put so much water on the road the car didn't even have the power to go over 30mph. The filter was soaking wet after every drive in the rain. Never once had an issue. You need to completely SUBMERGE the filter to hydrolock.
Let's be realistic, how many cars do you know that have actually lost an engine to hydrolock? I know of ONE, and that's because I work at a dealer and I see everything. This lady drove her stock Camry through a 4" deep puddle at 70mph. It sent water OVER the roof of the car. Camry's have their intake pipe routed to the front grill for cold air, needless to say much of the water went directly into it and completely filled the air box. This will never happen with your filter in the SMIC location unless you try to cross a river, the water would have to be over the front bumper.

MyBeatGSX said:

For the guys that did put the filter in the stock smic location, do you have an pics of your setup? What did you use to get it down there? I had remembered someone on here saying that used that intake piping Auto Zone has. I went to go buy some this weekend and then realized that my MAF adapter has a 5" inlet with 5" filter on it.
Where am I supposed to find a 5" 90* bend? And does anyone know how having a very sharp bend in the intake effects the flow? Does the cold air offset this?

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Pics are in my gallery of the piping I have and my filter.

Here is were I got it.

http://store.straightlinespecialties.com/product_info.php?cPath=29&products_id=161