you will get 0 rwhp from that setup... and thats even dyno tuned..

your car is front wheel drive..

The turbo is only listed as a "TD05H Turbo Charger", so you will want to find out what turbo it is exactly.. I'm assuming it's a 16g, but it could be a few others as well. Also, you already have an upgraded BOV and with this kit you'll need a way to turn the boost on that (supposedly) 16g turbo to a level where the stock fuel system can keep up, or upgrade your fuel pump, injectors, and get a way of tuning it all.

jasonlee said:

you will get 0 rwhp from that setup... and thats even dyno tuned..

your car is front wheel drive..

Click to expand...

The add doesn't mention whether the setup is for a FWD or AWD, and in any case the GST and GSX have the same engines so therefore the parts are interchangeable anyways

Jeremoose said:

The add doesn't mention whether the setup is for a FWD or AWD, and in any case the GST and GSX have the same engines so therefore the parts are interchangeable anyways

Click to expand...

They are the same but nosurf2day is expecting rwhp!

Jeremoose said:

The add doesn't mention whether the setup is for a FWD or AWD, and in any case the GST and GSX have the same engines so therefore the parts are interchangeable anyways

Click to expand...

im quite aware that its interchangable between the 2 cars. look what type of car he has...... now look at what he was asking for... "rwhp"

jasonlee said:

you will get 0 rwhp from that setup... and thats even dyno tuned..

your car is front wheel drive..

Click to expand...

Wtf please no mis info



Anyways it looks to be a SSAUTOCHROME kit, there front mounts are nice and thats about it.

I would def never buy a ebay turbo no matter what anyone says, my freind had the EBAY bov and it was a peice of shit and leaked.

The manifolds do make power, it was proven over on the evo forums. Buscher did do testing on them check there site.

Perfect Tool said:

They are the same but nosurf2day is expecting rwhp!

Click to expand...

My bad, I am used to posting forums for my 350Z, of course my GST is front wheel drive. Thanks for the catch. DAOHHHH!!

Jeremoose said:

The turbo is only listed as a "TD05H Turbo Charger", so you will want to find out what turbo it is exactly.. I'm assuming it's a 16g, but it could be a few others as well. Also, you already have an upgraded BOV and with this kit you'll need a way to turn the boost on that (supposedly) 16g turbo to a level where the stock fuel system can keep up, or upgrade your fuel pump, injectors, and get a way of tuning it all.

Click to expand...

I am not really up on mitsu cars, much less my eclipse. I am a nissan man but I have had this car for a while. I want to hook it up to get about 250 to 300 fwhp for the least money. I dont have deep pockets. I dont care if its used but I want it to be a solid investment.

I thought the TD05H was a 18G turbine?

Also I forgot to mention,( reminder I have a apexi super afc) and i have a profec b boost controler as well. I am running 16lbs boost on stock injectors, I had my car put on a dyno, I topped out at 181 hp with 291 ft lbs of torqe. I maxed out my fuel pump, the guy told me that if I had a better pump I would reach 200 to the wheels. Not enough fuel!!!

I am planning on getting a walboro 255 pump, I want the best set up for that hp range 250 - 300 wheel hp. I need a manifold, fmic and turbine with all necessary extra's. What should I get to meet my goal?

1. 550cc injectors
2. 255 walboro fuel pump
3. ??? manifold
4. ??? turbine
5. ??? FMIC
6. ???
7. ???
8. ???

Remember, my pockets arent deep. If you know a good link could you post it as well?

Thanks for the replys, I appreciate your knowlege on the subjects. Again sorry for the miss comm earlier.

nosurf2day said:

1. 550cc injectors
2. 255 walboro fuel pump
3. ??? manifold
4. ??? turbine
5. ??? FMIC
6. ???
7. ???
8. ???

Click to expand...

I can't say much about any of those except that for your power goals your stock SMIC should be fine. FMIC are very expensive usually and probably wont fit into your budget. If you want to upgrade your SMIC you can upgrade to a Supra SMIC and that would definitely be sufficient for what you're after.

JOEY A said:

Wtf please no mis info



Anyways it looks to be a SSAUTOCHROME kit, there front mounts are nice and thats about it.

I would def never buy a ebay turbo no matter what anyone says, my freind had the EBAY bov and it was a peice of shit and leaked.

The manifolds do make power, it was proven over on the evo forums. Buscher did do testing on them check there site.

Click to expand...

i agree completely with this guy, theres a reason why these kits are like way cheaper than other proven kits, ive boughten stuff on ebay that were knock offs and way cheaper than others but they all turned to junk, i havent turbo'd my car yet but i did by a manifold for it for 120 dollars and the weldings on it were junk and all it did was fall apart, so i ended up losing money in the long run

JOEY A said:

Wtf please no mis info



Anyways it looks to be a SSAUTOCHROME kit, there front mounts are nice and thats about it.

I would def never buy a ebay turbo no matter what anyone says, my freind had the EBAY bov and it was a peice of shit and leaked.

The manifolds do make power, it was proven over on the evo forums. Buscher did do testing on them check there site.

Click to expand...

please... tell me how this was mis info?

nosurf2day said:

I am not really up on mitsu cars, much less my eclipse. I am a nissan man but I have had this car for a while. I want to hook it up to get about 250 to 300 fwhp for the least money. I dont have deep pockets. I dont care if its used but I want it to be a solid investment.

I thought the TD05H was a 18G turbine?

Also I forgot to mention,( reminder I have a apexi super afc) and i have a profec b boost controler as well. I am running 16lbs boost on stock injectors, I had my car put on a dyno, I topped out at 181 hp with 291 ft lbs of torqe. I maxed out my fuel pump, the guy told me that if I had a better pump I would reach 200 to the wheels. Not enough fuel!!!

I am planning on getting a walboro 255 pump, I want the best set up for that hp range 250 - 300 wheel hp. I need a manifold, fmic and turbine with all necessary extra's. What should I get to meet my goal?

1. 550cc injectors
2. 255 walboro fuel pump
3. ??? manifold
4. ??? turbine
5. ??? FMIC
6. ???
7. ???
8. ???

Remember, my pockets arent deep. If you know a good link could you post it as well?

Thanks for the replys, I appreciate your knowlege on the subjects. Again sorry for the miss comm earlier.

Click to expand...

This is what I would get, if I were you on a limited budget.

1) Get the MHI (Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, EVO III 16G turbo, NOT THE GT TURBO. The GT is not made by Mitsubishi. I would not buy a turbo from ebay, an FMIC is fine, but not a turbo, especially when you don't know who makes them.
http://www.turbochargers.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=186


2) EBAY FMIC - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DSM-...3QQihZ015QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem. There is a HUGE thread on here, do a search for Ebay FMIC and you'll find it.

3) 660cc injectors, 190 fuel pump (don't get the 255, you'll need to spend another $150-$200 on an AFPR). A 190 pump will be enough for an EVO III and even a 50 trim under 25psi.

4) Port stock 2G o2 housing and turbo, get a cat back exhaust, downpipe (without cat), blow off valve (1Gs are cheapest), recirculate it, don't vent the BOV.

5) Get an intake filter and a logger, and tune it.

That's it.

DGajre777 said:

This is what I would get, if I were you on a limited budget.

1) Get the MHI (Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, EVO III 16G turbo, NOT THE GT TURBO. The GT is not made by Mitsubishi. I would not buy a turbo from ebay, an FMIC is fine, but not a turbo, especially when you don't know who makes them.
http://www.turbochargers.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=186

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

2) EBAY FMIC - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DSM-...3QQihZ015QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem. There is a HUGE thread on here, do a search for Ebay FMIC and you'll find it.

3) 660cc injectors, 190 fuel pump (don't get the 255, you'll need to spend another $150-$200 on an AFPR). A 190 pump will be enough for an EVO III and even a 50 trim under 25psi.

4) Port stock 2G o2 housing and turbo, get a cat back exhaust, downpipe (without cat), blow off valve (1Gs are cheapest), recirculate it, don't vent the BOV.

5) Get an intake filter and a logger, and tune it.

That's it.

Click to expand...

What he said ^^^

You'll meet your power goals with that setup easily

DGajre777 said:

This is what I would get, if I were you on a limited budget.

1) Get the MHI (Mitsubishi Heavy Industries, EVO III 16G turbo, NOT THE GT TURBO. The GT is not made by Mitsubishi. I would not buy a turbo from ebay, an FMIC is fine, but not a turbo, especially when you don't know who makes them.
http://www.turbochargers.com/store/product_info.php?products_id=186

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

2) EBAY FMIC - http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DSM-...3QQihZ015QQcategoryZ33742QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem. There is a HUGE thread on here, do a search for Ebay FMIC and you'll find it.

3) 660cc injectors, 190 fuel pump (don't get the 255, you'll need to spend another $150-$200 on an AFPR). A 190 pump will be enough for an EVO III and even a 50 trim under 25psi.

4) Port stock 2G o2 housing and turbo, get a cat back exhaust, downpipe (without cat), blow off valve (1Gs are cheapest), recirculate it, don't vent the BOV.

5) Get an intake filter and a logger, and tune it.

That's it.

Click to expand...

I am guessing that when you said AFPR it is a fuel pressure regulator, I already have a pressurized system, is that what you were reffering to. I also have a 3" downpipe setup that hooks straight up to the stock turbine, (no cat) w/test pipe, 3" straight back to an apexi N1 exhaust. 660cc injectors, that sounds pretty big, do I really need to go that big? Wouldnt 550cc do just as good? I have the injen intake that is recirculated. It sets pretty high up where it recircs, dont really see how it helps since it is no where near the turbine blades.

I was checking out that FMIC it looked pretty nice, so getting that would be okay?

So basically, get that kit you linked me to, get the fmic that is on that other link, get bigger injectors. would i need to get another downpipe or would the one I have that mates up to the stock turbine work?

I dont understand what you mean by the Port stock 2G o2 housing though.

nosurf2day said:

I am guessing that when you said AFPR it is a fuel pressure regulator, I already have a pressurized system, is that what you were reffering to.

Click to expand...

He means an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. These are necessary when you start overrunning the stock FPR. That can even happen with a 190lph pump, but moreso with a 255. When you say "pressurized system" does that mean you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (Buschur, Aeromotive, etc)?

I have the injen intake that is recirculated. It sets pretty high up where it recircs, dont really see how it helps since it is no where near the turbine blades.

Click to expand...

The position of the recirculation tube isn't as important as whether you recirculate or not. Some people believe that when the BOV purges, it keeps the compressor blades spinning. Maybe, maybe not. But what's important is keeping metered air in the system. THAT'S what helps.

I was checking out that FMIC it looked pretty nice, so getting that would be okay?

Click to expand...

A lot of members here have had good experiences with the SSAutochrome FMIC. There's even a group buy that I think you can still get in on.

I dont understand what you mean by the Port stock 2G o2 housing though.

Click to expand...

The 2g O2 housing flows better than the 1g O2 housing. However, the wastegate area of the housing is somewhat "kidney-bean shaped," whereas the wastegate outlet of a TD05 turbo is somewhat more "bell-shaped". To get the best flow, you want to port the O2 housing to match the turbine housing shape. The best way to do this is gasket-matching, especially if you have an old spare TD05 gasket. Port using a carbide burr and an air-powered die grinder, finish it off with a sanding stone or flapper wheel to make the surface smooth. Check this VFAQ out for more info and some pics.

I thought the TD05H was a 18G turbine?

Click to expand...

There are many different variations of TD05 turbo; the 18g is just one of them. Also in the TD05 family are the 14b, 16g sub-group, 17c, and quite a few others.

MrBoxx said:

He means an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator. These are necessary when you start overrunning the stock FPR. That can even happen with a 190lph pump, but moreso with a 255. When you say "pressurized system" does that mean you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (Buschur, Aeromotive, etc)?



The position of the recirculation tube isn't as important as whether you recirculate or not. Some people believe that when the BOV purges, it keeps the compressor blades spinning. Maybe, maybe not. But what's important is keeping metered air in the system. THAT'S what helps.



A lot of members here have had good experiences with the SSAutochrome FMIC. There's even a group buy that I think you can still get in on.



The 2g O2 housing flows better than the 1g O2 housing. However, the wastegate area of the housing is somewhat "kidney-bean shaped," whereas the wastegate outlet of a TD05 turbo is somewhat more "bell-shaped". To get the best flow, you want to port the O2 housing to match the turbine housing shape. The best way to do this is gasket-matching, especially if you have an old spare TD05 gasket. Port using a carbide burr and an air-powered die grinder, finish it off with a sanding stone or flapper wheel to make the surface smooth. Check this VFAQ out for more info and some pics.



There are many different variations of TD05 turbo; the 18g is just one of them. Also in the TD05 family are the 14b, 16g sub-group, 17c, and quite a few others.

Click to expand...

When you say "pressurized system" does that mean you have an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (Buschur, Aeromotive, etc)? YES THAT IS WHAT I MEAN, I DONT KNOW WHAT KIND, IT WAS ON THE CAR WHEN I PURCHASED THE CAR. IT IS SET AT 40psi.

Your very knowledgeable on this, i appreciate it alot, i feel like a retard when it comes to mitsu's, i am doing so much research on my 350Z i get lost when I try to find stuff for the eclipse.

It's easy to get lost when looking for parts on these cars. They've been around a long time and there are lots of options. The trick is to sort out the junk from the tested products. It gets harder with so many knock-off products coming out. I'll second Dgajre's suggestions regarding picking a true MHI turbo and not the GT unit. All of his other suggestions are great as well, especially the very last part: Get a logger. You could have all the go-fast parts in the world but it wouldn't make any difference unless you knew what was going on in your engine.

The good news is that this is a great site for finding people's experiences with different parts. You can easily see what works well for the majority of DSM owners and what things you should stay away from. I thought I had a basic upgrade plan for my car until I joined the site. Then I started learning more about the parts and the way they all work together best, so my upgrade plans have changed to reflect it.

Keep us updated on what you go with and how it all works for you. And of course, if you have any other questions, we're always here (unless the site's down ).

JOEY A said:

Wtf please no mis info



Anyways it looks to be a SSAUTOCHROME kit, there front mounts are nice and thats about it.

I would def never buy a ebay turbo no matter what anyone says, my freind had the EBAY bov and it was a peice of shit and leaked.

The manifolds do make power, it was proven over on the evo forums. Buscher did do testing on them check there site.

Click to expand...

I would definitely never buy an SS Autochrome kit, I've heard that the welds are really sihtty and you will have leaks in under a year. From looking at the stuff on their site I am not impressed, the work on their parts look shoddy.

nosurf2day said:

I am guessing that when you said AFPR it is a fuel pressure regulator, I already have a pressurized system, is that what you were reffering to. I also have a 3" downpipe setup that hooks straight up to the stock turbine, (no cat) w/test pipe, 3" straight back to an apexi N1 exhaust. 660cc injectors, that sounds pretty big, do I really need to go that big? Wouldnt 550cc do just as good? I have the injen intake that is recirculated. It sets pretty high up where it recircs, dont really see how it helps since it is no where near the turbine blades.

I was checking out that FMIC it looked pretty nice, so getting that would be okay?

So basically, get that kit you linked me to, get the fmic that is on that other link, get bigger injectors. would i need to get another downpipe or would the one I have that mates up to the stock turbine work?

I dont understand what you mean by the Port stock 2G o2 housing though.

Click to expand...

With a true 3" exhaust you will most probably get boost creep on the Evo III 16G (slight chance of you not getting it.). Which brand of downpipe do you have? Is it 3" at the flange or is it 2 1/2 at the flange and then goes to 3" after the flex? Apexi and RRE makes downpipes like these - 2 1/2 and then 3".

If you don't want to port your 2G o2 housing, you can pick one up from www.122performance.com for $155.

If you don't want to port your EVO III 16G turbo, you can order it from PTE and ask them to do the "not-divided" mod on it. It is where they basically remove the wall between the turbine outlet and the wastegate passage on the turbo so that the air can move from one hole to the other. This was orginally done on PTE turbos, and from what I know Dejon is the only shop that does this on EVO III turbos. The only bad side of doing this is that IF you ever decide to run a o2 mounted external wastegate, you can't. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about...
Regular EVO III 16G -
Not-divided -

About the Ebay FMICs, I didn't like them either, but for less than $300 shipped, if one takes a crap on you, you can get 2 more and it will still be less than the $900+ FMICs on the market.

About injectors, If you want to max out the EVO III 16G turbo, you'll need 660cc injectors. If you want to run a low boost setting for 18-19 psi, then 550ccs will do.

About fuel pump - as MrBoxx said, with a 255 pump you will run into fuel overrun issues and will need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (AFPR). If you take a picture of your AFPR, we can probably tell what it is and IF it is a good one. If it is purple looking B&M one, trash it and get a good AFPR which will increase fuel pressure on a 1:1 ratio with boost. With a 190 pump, very very few people have any issues with fuel overrun.

About the Injen intake, it doesn't matter how far from the turbo the recirculation fitting is, the air that has been metered goes back in the turbo and it won't give you any issues that you have with venting. If you DO want to vent your BOV, get a GM MAF and MAFT unit.

I forgot to add on my original list that you will also need a fuel computer like SAFC for bigger injectors. If you want to vent your BOV, instead of getting a SAFC, get the new MAFT Gen II unit. It has more settings and control than a SAFC and has a built in MAFT. Do a search for "MAFT Gen II" and you'll find it on here.

Oh and I'm in Orlando once every few months since I have in-laws there, if you want to meet up, let me know. I know I'll be down there in December with my car since I want to take it to the track.

DGajre777 said:

With a true 3" exhaust you will most probably get boost creep on the Evo III 16G (slight chance of you not getting it.). Which brand of downpipe do you have? Is it 3" at the flange or is it 2 1/2 at the flange and then goes to 3" after the flex? Apexi and RRE makes downpipes like these - 2 1/2 and then 3".

If you don't want to port your 2G o2 housing, you can pick one up from www.122performance.com for $155.

If you don't want to port your EVO III 16G turbo, you can order it from PTE and ask them to do the "not-divided" mod on it. It is where they basically remove the wall between the turbine outlet and the wastegate passage on the turbo so that the air can move from one hole to the other. This was orginally done on PTE turbos, and from what I know Dejon is the only shop that does this on EVO III turbos. The only bad side of doing this is that IF you ever decide to run a o2 mounted external wastegate, you can't. Here's a pic of what I'm talking about...
Regular EVO III 16G -

You must be logged in to view this image or video.

Not-divided -

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About the Ebay FMICs, I didn't like them either, but for less than $300 shipped, if one takes a crap on you, you can get 2 more and it will still be less than the $900+ FMICs on the market.

About injectors, If you want to max out the EVO III 16G turbo, you'll need 660cc injectors. If you want to run a low boost setting for 18-19 psi, then 550ccs will do.

About fuel pump - as MrBoxx said, with a 255 pump you will run into fuel overrun issues and will need an aftermarket fuel pressure regulator (AFPR). If you take a picture of your AFPR, we can probably tell what it is and IF it is a good one. If it is purple looking B&M one, trash it and get a good AFPR which will increase fuel pressure on a 1:1 ratio with boost. With a 190 pump, very very few people have any issues with fuel overrun.

About the Injen intake, it doesn't matter how far from the turbo the recirculation fitting is, the air that has been metered goes back in the turbo and it won't give you any issues that you have with venting. If you DO want to vent your BOV, get a GM MAF and MAFT unit.

I forgot to add on my original list that you will also need a fuel computer like SAFC for bigger injectors. If you want to vent your BOV, instead of getting a SAFC, get the new MAFT Gen II unit. It has more settings and control than a SAFC and has a built in MAFT. Do a search for "MAFT Gen II" and you'll find it on here.

Oh and I'm in Orlando once every few months since I have in-laws there, if you want to meet up, let me know. I know I'll be down there in December with my car since I want to take it to the track.

Click to expand...

I will get a pic of my AFPR for you so that you can see what it is. I dont know about the down pipe 3" or 2" to 3" I will check that as well, I think it is straight 3" though. I do have a SFAC that i am already having my car tuned with. Running on 16psi I have maxed out my pump, my turbine and injectors.

Also I know I sound silly asking this, I have never heard of a logger or anyone talking about one until now, what exactly is that? Where do I get one that is good and not overpriced?

***DANG I FEEL LIKE A REAL IGNORAMOUS***

Heck yeah, when you come into town lets hook up you can check out what I have done up to that point and give me some pointers on how to improve. I dont know any DSM people around here, everyone is honda or nissan ser.

This is my engine, I have taken some of the dress up stuff off. I will get a better pic of what you need to see, to include any aftermarket stuff on the car.



This is my car.

nosurf2day said:

Also I know I sound silly asking this, I have never heard of a logger or anyone talking about one until now, what exactly is that? Where do I get one that is good and not overpriced?

Click to expand...

Cool! I'll send you a PM about meeting.

http://www.pocketlogger.com/index.php?pid=obdii
^^^ makes good one and you can pick up a Palm M100/M105 from ebay. A logger gives you engine parameters to tune it. On a 2G you can't see knock. When you log RPM, o2 and timing, you can tune a car. A dip in the timing curve on a 2G indicates that you are knocking, and when you increase your boost, you need to watch your timing.

Before you ask you next question, how many degrees of timing at WOT - read this: http://www.dsmtuners.com/forums/showthread.php?t=190048

As someone on here once said, parts don't make HP, tuning does.