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Let It Rain, Let It Rain, Let It Rain

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Slow old poop

15+ Year Contributor
707
7
Jul 24, 2005
Cedar Rapids, Iowa
Gawd, I love running in the rain. The M3s and twin-turbo 350Zs turn from being ferocious competitors to mobile obstacles, while expensive race cars running slick tires stay off the track. AWD Eclipses rule in the rain.

But let me begin at the beginning...

Last weekend, whilst tuning it for the NASA event on Sunday, we discovered that the number 4 wire, which had to make a tight 180deg turn from the coil pack to clear the fuel pressure regulator, was shorting out. This (we think...more on this later) shorting caused us to lose #4, kill the tach, and throw check engine lights. So we packed it in, ordered a set of Magnecores, and resigned ourselves to missing yet one more race event. All season, it's been like this: two steps forward, one step back, and order parts on Monday so we can work on it next weekend. The car hasn't seen a race track since last October, as we have dealt with mostly electrical gremlins and dumb little problems.

The Magnecores arrived Thursday, so on Friday we removed the coil pack from under the intake manifold (so #4 would not have to make that horrid tight bend and short the wire again). But where to put the coil pack? We searched the forums and found only one other example of somebody who had moved the coil pack on a 2G. Alas, that solution doesn't work on a 1G. So we clamped it to the strut brace (see photo), and fired it up. Dang, it ran good!


There was a test n' tune scheduled the next day at MidAmerica Motorplex in Council Bluffs, Iowa, so we loaded up the car, left Cedar Rapids at about 10 pm, and towed over, arriving at 4:30 am. We napped in the truck and got to the track at 7 am.

It was raining like a double-bladdered cow pissing on a flat rock (as we say here in Iowa). We unloaded the car during a break in the rain. Fortunately, since it was ready to race right off the trailer, we didn't have to do anything to it except wait for the start.

The event is organized by Damian dela Huerta at Find the Line (http://www.findtheline.com) and it is perfect for sorting and tuning a car. Damien recently ran One Lap in his Mazda RX7, and he organizes two or three events like this a year, all at MidAmerica Motorplex (MAM), a 2.23 mile road course just south of Council Bluffs, Iowa (http://www.midamericamotorplex.com). This track is easily reachable for DSMers in the central Midwest, from Minneapolis, Chicago, St Louis, Kansas City and so on. Damian's next event is in August. Hope to see a bunch of DSMs out to run.

Damian allows ridealongs, you can pretty much go out on course whenever you like, and you can get a ferocious amount of lap time, all for $150. You could literally run all day if you like, stopping only to pee, get gas and eat. Damian sets up two or three classes, just to separate the cars (A = ferocious, B= Intermediate and C = Novice), and you can jump from class to class if you like. He usually runs 2 classes, but he had so many cars this time (35), he ran three class.

Because it was the Eclipse's first run since the new engine, we were eager to tune it and shake down the car. Jon Wieman rode along with me to tune the Apexi. We were running 10 psi boost on pump gas which was more than enough in the rain.

On the very first lap, exiting corner 4 in the rain, I got it sideways under power at about 80 and did a couple of vicious tail wags, but that was the biggest problem all day. Driving in the rain is very much like rally driving, where the car dances on the hairy edge of cornering and braking. I was running Toyo Proxes that were nearly slick, but they stuck well enough in the rain. For the first two sessions in the rain, the Eclipse pretty much caught and passed every car it encountered, including a 600 hp M3 and a 600 hp twin turbo 350Z.

Jon was tuning the whole time, and the car was running good. The rain stopped in the late morning, the track started to dry, and we got faster.

We discovered that the new engine, running only 10 psi boost, is equal to the old engine at 20 psi. Although it's not a perfect comparison, we were approaching turn 1 at 115 mph, same as last year. In fact, in one daring late-braking move when the track was dry, it touched 120 mph, the same as I did in my 3000GT. So, there is hope that the car will be a terror once we get it completely dialed in at 20 psi on race gas.

Alas, the gremlins returned. We lost the tach and the O2 signal, and the car started running bad, so we returned to the pits and checked the wiring. The O2 wire (we rewired it earlier this year) ran very close to the coil pack which was ungrounded, and we suspected the coil pack was interfering with the O2 signal. So we rerouted the O2 wire and attached grounding wires to the coil pack. That cured most of the problems, because it fired back up and we had an O2 signal again, but the tach was still jumping around like crazy.

I was chasing a big bad M3 all day. I got him in the rain, no contest. But as it dried out, he got faster. I'm not sure what's in this M3, but it was used as a model at Orr Motorsports during a NASA car prep forum in Minneapolis. I hear it has a $6,000 head, completely adjustable suspension, and tons of other goodies. I could almost run with him in the dry (there's a video of this, shot by Damian from behind, which I am trying to get). Alas, during the last session of the day, I started missing the 3-4 upshift. Pull the shift lever back, and the trannie goes into nowheresville. No gear. Shift back to 3rd, try again. After 3 or 4 tries, I'd finally get 4th. The M3 ran off and hid while all this was going on.

Is this symptomatic of something? A hot transmission, maybe?

We ran two more sessions after lunch, but decided NOT to kick the boost until we cured the other problems. All in all, a very good day. Very productive, the motor is tuned, and we know we can run with the big boys. When we kick the boost, it should be even more competitive.

Problems yet to fix:

Wacky Tach – maybe it's the coil pack not being grounded. We get a good rpm signal in the data logger, but not the tach.

Ground the coil pack – Right now, it's just sitting below the strut brace, held in by tie wraps, with two ground wires running to the engine. I like the location, so we will probably fab up a bracket so it can continue to sit right there. But how to ground it? The ECU throws a Coil Pack code, so we are assuming the problem is a bad ground.

Water temperature sensor – The temperature gauge on the dash appears to work properly. It heats up from cold and goes to the center when warm, then stays there all day. The ECU is not getting a temperature reading, so it throws an engine code and uses the default temp of 199 F permanently. We are not sure how to fix this. It's probably one of the wires in that goofy wiring harness (we had to reroute the O2 sensor wire for the same reason). Is this something to worry about?

4th gear – What causes the 3-4 shift to suddenly go bad, after working fine earlier? I plan to follow Greg's advice and change the trannie fluid after every event. We been using Syncromesh – you guys recommend anything else?

A bunch of photos follow. I dunno how to weave the pix into the copy like some of you do, or in what order they will come up. The first photo (I hope) shows the relocated coil pack; the photo of us in the hot pit lane was when the data logger came unplugged and Jon had to run around the car and plug it back in; the shot from the back end is entering the front straight; all the rest are shots from around the track. Note the lack of other cars in the images -- that's because there were never more than 10-12 cars on track at any one time.
Rich
 

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why did you move your coil pack when you have a stock intake manifold?
 
Id stay with BG, and maybe check out your shifter cables? Maybe a bolt came lose.

He moved the coil pack so wire #4 wouldnt have to make the tight bend, which was causing a short.
 
Sounds like you had a great time Rich, and you’re discovering the potential of the car. My favorite line of your commentary; “It was raining like a double-bladdered cow pissing on a flat rock.” hahahahahahah………ROFL ROFL ROFL

When I was running a coil pack I made a bracket that connected to the last bolthole on the top of the intake (drivers side), and yes the grounding is “very” important.

Are you using an independent tach? If so you’ll need a tach driver to boost the signal. If not, then yes you’re seeing some wiring woes to the OEM tach signal.

The ECU gets a separate temperature signal from a separate sensor on your thermostat housing.

3rd to 4th gear woes could be extremely hot tranny fluid (cooler could be in order). I assume you had new fluid in with the new engine build and all. I run Kaas LSD additive and Red Line 75W 90-gear oil. The worst cast scenario could be a slipping clutch fork. (Been there done that twice before)…

And, the lack of other cars in the photos was because you were hauling asssssssss!

Great job, I’m glad to hear you’re back in business! :thumb:

EDIT: I didn't hear any StopTech complaints? OMG



:)
 
Greg Collier said:
Are you using an independent tach? If so you'll need a tach driver to boost the signal. If not, then yes you're seeing some wiring woes to the OEM tach signal.:)

Stock tach. It bounces all over the place, and sometimes it doesn't work at all. I'm hoping that once we get the coil pack grounded properly, the tach will come back.

Greg Collier said:
The ECU gets a separate temperature signal from a separate sensor on your thermostat housing.:)

Yes, we know. One signal works, the other doesn't.

Greg Collier said:
3rd to 4th gear woes could be extremely hot tranny fluid (cooler could be in order). I assume you had new fluid in with the new engine build and all. I run Kaas LSD additive and Red Line 75W 90-gear oil. The worst cast scenario could be a slipping clutch fork. (Been there done that twice before)...:)

Does this mean you don't like the Syncromesh?

Greg Collier said:
I didn't hear any StopTech complaints? OMG :)

I *DID NOT* crack the rotor. Whee doggies! First time in ages. Brakes worked OK, except for we still have pad knockback. If I ever get the video from behind, you will probably see me pumping the brakes like crazy to get pedal pressure. Otherwise, no fade, and the brakes worked just fine.
 
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tstkl said:
why did you move your coil pack when you have a stock intake manifold?

You can see the fuel pressure regulator in the photo (big red thing). With the coil pack in the stock location, #4 plug wire has to make a very tight 180 deg turn inside the regulator. After a while, this tends to short out the wire. We moved the coil pack so #4 wire doesn't have to make that bend.

Rich
 
Slow old poop said:
Does this mean you don't like the Syncromesh?

I've been successfully running the Red Line and the Kaas additive since I put the Shepherd tranny in the car... it's the old, "if it ain't broke, don't screw with it."

Brakes worked OK, except for we still have pad knockback. If I ever get the video from behind, you will probably see me pumping the brakes like crazy to get pedal pressure. Otherwise, no fade, and the brakes worked just fine.

I know we've had a lot of discussion over your pad-knock, did we ever discuss a power booster leak test?
There's also someone who fabricates a booster bracket that gives added rigidity to the booster itself to the firewall. Sometimes with these old cars the booster unit itself moves creating a whole variety of problems...
 
Greg Collier said:
I've been successfully running the Red Line and the Kaas additive since I put the Shepherd tranny in the car... it's the old, "if it ain't broke, don't screw with it."



I know we've had a lot of discussion over your pad-knock, did we ever discuss a power booster leak test?
There's also someone who fabricates a booster bracket that gives added rigidity to the booster itself to the firewall. Sometimes with these old cars the booster unit itself moves creating a whole variety of problems...
that someone is machv I believe....

great writeup btw, I didn't get to read it the first time I posted ### I didn't have the time, but now I have :thumb:
 
Great write up Rich.

BTW Here are Jessica's official link to the event pics... I was hesitant posting them here, as I am sure DSM Tuners is going to rape our bandwidth and we need the pics up for the drivers to buy them... but here goes.... try and be gentle guys.

http://www.vr4gasm.com/mam/mam.html


You car is coming along great Rich. Now is the time to get serious. Let's do some minor weight reduction. Nothing major like the dash yet (unless you want too.. I know I do), just minor stuff and then let's corner weigh the car. I have a ton of ideas that I did on my track VR-4. Less weight on the car means we need less boost for you to be competative... less boost = more reliablity. 20 PSI for 20 minutes is too much heat to manage IMO.

Get someone to work your minor issues. Maybe just dropping it off at AMS is not a bad idea.
1. Tranny. We NEED to get you a good shift knob. Anyone got a stock 1G shift knob? Condition is irrelvant. Rich is currently running a crappy aftermarket one. Get someone to look at the shifter cables.. something is not right there.
2. Tach. Gotta get the bracket made for the coil pack. That should fix the tach signal. You could always gut the OEM gauge cluster and replace with a just big-o-tach. You don't need anything else anyway like the speedo, or stock gauges (we have aftermarket gauges mounted elsewhere)
3. DSMLink... I know we just got the SAFCII tuned in and you are happy with the tune, but your DSMLink gathering dust will be sooooo much better.
 
lethal_vr4 said:
Great write up Rich.

BTW Here are Jessica's official link to the event pics... I was hesitant posting them here, as I am sure DSM Tuners is going to rape our bandwidth and we need the pics up for the drivers to buy them... but here goes.... try and be gentle guys.

http://www.vr4gasm.com/mam/mam.html


You car is coming along great Rich. Now is the time to get serious. Let's do some minor weight reduction. Nothing major like the dash yet (unless you want too.. I know I do), just minor stuff and then let's corner weigh the car. I have a ton of ideas that I did on my track VR-4. Less weight on the car means we need less boost for you to be competative... less boost = more reliablity. 20 PSI for 20 minutes is too much heat to manage IMO.

Get someone to work your minor issues. Maybe just dropping it off at AMS is not a bad idea.
1. Tranny. We NEED to get you a good shift knob. Anyone got a stock 1G shift knob? Condition is irrelvant. Rich is currently running a crappy aftermarket one. Get someone to look at the shifter cables.. something is not right there.
2. Tach. Gotta get the bracket made for the coil pack. That should fix the tach signal. You could always gut the OEM gauge cluster and replace with a just big-o-tach. You don't need anything else anyway like the speedo, or stock gauges (we have aftermarket gauges mounted elsewhere)
3. DSMLink... I know we just got the SAFCII tuned in and you are happy with the tune, but your DSMLink gathering dust will be sooooo much better.

Couple things:

1) Shift knob: AMS sells a stock sized/looking one that is slightly weighted. Nice leather, works well 20$ (very well may be the cheapest thing AMS sells OMG)
2) I think you ahve that pretty well taken care of
3) DSMlink will be Key. You'll end up making more power as well due to the inherent problems that piggy back units like the SAFC have.


Brakes: There is something wrong. I like Greg's idea of testing the brake booster. I'm not sure if you've stated before, but what kind of shape is the Master cylinder in? MachV is the one that sells the MC brace, however if it was me, I'd make one myself.

20 psi shouldn't be that hard to manage. It really depends on what kind of airflow you're getting through the radiator, what kind of condition the overall cooling system is in, and if you are using an external oil cooler.

I would also get a temp gauge on that trans ASAP. even if you can only get a "sump" temp reading, that would be helpful to you at this point. From talking to other AWD racers, you can easily get the trans over 250* which is just way too hot! All in all a trans cooler setup will cost you about 350$ (200 tilton pump, 100 cooler, 50 for fittings and lines) You can always get more expensive, however I think that setup would be adaquate. I will probably add a thermostat of sorts so that it only operates at temp.
 
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